Loader -- no 4WD

[neilly2]

Looking at the Koyker 155 loader for my 30hp tractor. I looked at the previous Koyker threads:

There was mention of weight with the Koyker, but from what I see on the spec pages they're lighter than the equivalent Wood or Great Bend. Am i crazy?

My brother with 4WD, same size tractor says I'm in big trouble putting a loader on a 2WD machine. Any thoughts. My rear tires are calcium filled, so I get a good bite. Hell, I'm gonna buy an FEL anyway, but wonderin what you think.

He has a Koyker FEL, very solid. Only thing is the bucket dump speed is slow, but I don't know if that's the loaders fault.

 

[OhioGuy]

I have a FEL on my 1220 (Ford) It's a 4wd but often I forget to engage the FWD when I'm using it. When I did some pavers and had to move tons of crushed limestone the 4WD really helped, but I could have still got it done without 4WD. Its the best tool dollars I've ever spent. I moved a boulder a couple of weeks ago I wouldn't have considered if I would had to hoist up on a trailer, just rolled it in the bucket nd put it where I wanted it. I've beat back brush with it, moved topsoil, limestone, gravel, snow ( took the blower off the Cub to early).it's a thing of beauty!!

Curt

 

[ScottAR]

No big troubles here. A few minor annoyances but nothing major. A 2WD will push and scoop nearly as well as a 4wd. The major advantage of the 4wd is after you've got a full bucket on. If a front tire gets in a dip or hole you can get stuck easy or the steering will move on ya. I usually just set the bucket on the ground and raise the tractor to get out of these. Also, don't do down any steep slopes with a load in the bucket.
Just drive carefully and you should be fine.

 

[Woodbeef]

It will work to a certain extent. There will be times though when you run out of traction,or can not turn very well because the front tires are pushing you around instead of pulling you through. I only engage the front axle when needed,but when I do I'm glad it is there. The set-up might be quite acceptable to you,only you can decide.

 

[have_blue]

Neilly,

With filled ag tires, you should be OK. If you have R4's, you may struggle a bit on some ground conditions.

 

[Worksmart]

My '66 Cub(see pic) is only 2wd and it had a loader /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif. Sold the loader when I bought the BX22. Rear tires are loaded on the Cub so I never had any traction issues. I only worried about busting the darn tractor in half /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Chuck

 

[beenthere]

There were loaders on tractors for many years with only 2wd (when many wished that 4wd was available). However, the size of the bucket on the loader was matched (see the pic of the Cub) with the tractor, and it may just mean that in some conditions (backing up hill with a load, or in mud) you will just have to match the load with the traction.
Myself, I wouldn't bother with a FEL (knowing what I do now) on a 2wd, but that is now (not when I had a 2wd and wished I had power steering so I could justify buying a loader for it for only $150 in 1976!).

It will be better than a wheel barrow. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[ljh2]

It will be better than no loader at all. Much better than a shovel and wheelbarrow. You WILL run out of traction at times, but if you take smaller bites and don't exceed your tractor's limitations (which are there with 4wd too, just higher) you'll be just fine.

If I was buying a new tractor to use a loader (I was about 5 months ago) it would DEFINITELY have 4WD! Since you already have a 2wd tractor, put a loader on it and save your back a lot of aching. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Zoomie]

IIRC, there are zillions of dedicated loader/backhoes in the world.... running on 2WD.

 

[slowzuki]

A 2wd TLB with hoe attached is a world different than a 2wd tractor with loader. Unless the 2wd tractor has a 3000lb counter weight hanging 4 ft off the back of it.

I don't think anyone given a choice would pick a 2wd tractor to do loader work. In soft ground it can be a waste of time, heavy loads can sink those skinny tires so fast.

On dry hard level ground a 2wd will perform almost as well as the 4wd.
Ken

 

[ljh2]

Zoomie,
As ken said if you have an 8000 pound tractor with a 3-5 thousand pound backhoe hanging off the back of it, you can find a LOT more traction than your typical CUT. You'll also notice that those dedicated TLB's use the hoe for most of their serious digging and use the loader to move dirt and other stuff. You'll notice that they make those TLB's in both 2 and 4 wheel drive models, it depends a lot on your typical work environment. A high percentage of the 2wd models are used in situations where the tractor rarely leaves improved surfaces (packed gravel, asphalt, concrete, etc...) They are used to load trucks in the rock/gravel yard, digging holes alongside roadways to access water/sewer/electrical lines, and such. Not that 2wd TLB's aren't ever used off-road, but if the operator tends to do a lot of work in mud or on slopes, they would choose 4wd in a minute, other things being equal. Of course other things aren't equal, 4wd carries a bit higher price tag.

 

[Lazy]

Hi
In my case when I'm digging with the FEL my front wheels are off the ground 95% of the time so it don't matter if I have it in 4 wheel drive or not. I steer with the brakes. So most of the time I stay in 2 wheel drive unless the ground is very soft and I need the traction for moving after the bucket is full. If I were you I would install the FEL you will be glad you did.

Charlie

 

[slowrev]

4wd tractors can overturn more easially with a raised loaded bucket than a 2wd one. The extra traction can put you in dangerous positions more easially than a 2wd. Backing up a hill with a load, the 2wd will loose traction usually before the slope gets too bad, a 4WD will push you up to where the tractor can become unstable.
Not picking on 4wd but they are different than 2wd and behave differently.

 

[Deerlope]

There are more 2wd's out there with loaders than 4WD's and you can bet on that.

 

[slowzuki]

A loader on a 2wd is helpful yes!

Having a heavy loader over the skinny unpowered front tires really hinders a tractors performance in soft ground conditions.

I've tried working in the woods in 2wd with the loader on and well /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

Nowadays, most loaders ARE quick detach so you can lose the loader when needed. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

To the people suggesting 2wd loader operations are safer, well I just don't know about you guys /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif. 2wd with correct counterweights is safe for loader use, but a 4wd in the same situation is safer. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Ken

 

[Woodbeef]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 4wd tractors can overturn more easially with a raised loaded bucket than a 2wd one.
)</font>

Huh? Could you please explain that statement?

 

[AndyMA]

I won't explain that unless he referred to possibly wider wheel stance. I will say that at least on my machines, loaded R1 tires in no way come close to enough rear weight. As I've said before, on my Ford 2120 (43hp), Ford specifies, loaded tires, wheel weights and a heavy rear implement for loader use. The weight of the rear implement get multipied by 1.5 because of where it hangs when doing your calculations. If I try to run with no rear implement, the rear tires come off the ground almost every time I try and break out a bucket near full (very fast and ver scary). Use plenty of rear weight.

Andy

 

[Rick Jay]

neilly2,

As others have said, you can certainly use a loader on a 2WD tractor, but it's very important to have sufficient ballast. I would do more than just load the rear tires. I good box blade or rear blade would not be too excessive.

Someone mentioned that the front wheels come up when digging in the pile anyway, so why use 4WD? Well, while that's true, where the 4WD is handy is when the bucket is raised. Now the extra traction of the front wheels can be quite advantageous.

Something I don't think was mentioned was braking. Most tractors, and I assume yours is one of them, only have brakes on the rear wheels. If you are driving down a slope with a heavy load in the bucket, the traction available to the rear wheels will be reduced, and that means braking is reduced. On a 4WD tractor, by engaging 4WD, applying the rear brakes does transfer some braking (through the drive train) to the front wheels. If you're operating on slopes, keep this in mind and be careful.

Lastly, maybe you should see what you could get for a trade in on a new 4WD tractor. Your loader cost won't be any more...and possibly less in a package deal...and interest rates are still pretty low so it might be a good time to trade up.

Good Luck.

~Rick

 

[Ledgemere Farm]

One of my brothers bought a 5105 JD and one bought a 5103 JD. The 5105 has MFWD and the cost was about $3000 more over the 2wd 5103. I grew up on 2wd tractors, but if you want to use your tractor for some serious loader work, you won't regret spending the extra cash for MFWD! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[slowrev]

If you are backing up a hill the 2wd tractor with loader will spin at a certain point and not raise the rear as high ( shifting the CG forward) as a 4wd one will ( with the front tires pushing you farther up the hill. A bit more likely to fall on its nose or over sidewayse iw you are not driving straight back up the hill. Been there done that. Have a friend that had a JD 2wd with loader, bought about the same JD with 4wd. Put it on its nose 3 or 4 times in the first week till he learned the difference.