Leveling and topsoil removal with the FEL?

Bluen · Jun 13, 2003

I've been asked to remove the topsoil and level an area for a out-building using the FEL on my TC40. What's the best approach to minimizing "waves and maintaining a constant depth?

Spencer · Jun 13, 2003

I used my FEL and rear blade to do just that for my pole barn building site. The best advice I can give you is to get a toothbar if you don't already have one. I just got one and it makes the job a lot easier. The technique is something that you will just learn as you go. You will be much better at it when you are done then when you started. It doesn't help for this project but it will help for the next one.

grainger12002 · Jun 13, 2003

you can always use the" 2 sticks and string method",tried and true,inexpensive and will help you level it off- Lloyd

DKinWA · Jun 13, 2003

I've got a tc40 myself and it takes practice, but it can be done. The key to maintaining a flat and constant depth is to keep the tractor on flat ground. I know that sounds goofy, but if you create a wave you really need to take it out right away. If you spin spin your wheels and create holes, you need to fill them in right away. Every ground lump, bump or dip is magnified when you drive over them with your tractor. This will be time consuming, but the finished product will be much better for your effort. The other recommendation I'd make is don't try to cut to final grade as you go. I'd rough it out to within a couple of inches and then take it down to the final grade. By the time you rough it out you'll have gotten some practice and your final cut will luck like a pro did it /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I wish I had something like this to work on this weekend. I've got all my tractor projects caught up and now the only projects left require a shovel and a rake /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

jinman · Jun 13, 2003

I always try to cut out more than I need to and then backfill and level with loose dirt. It's nearly impossible to come to grade over a large area without overcutting and backfilling. Next, since you can't tilt your bucket, you'll need to fill dirt on the low side first so your tractor will stay relatively level as you backdrag with your bucket. All of this is much easier with a boxblade since you can adjust its tilt and level by pushing in reverse. When you push in reverse, your boxblade flattens the grade before your wheels roll over it. If you try it going forward, your wheels will hit ridges and holes causing your boxblade to dig and dump and create more uneven ground. I always use my boxblade to cut grade or pull dirt going forward and push dirt or level the grade in reverse. All-in-all it's just practice...practice...practice. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Spencer · Jun 13, 2003

Don, I should have mentioned that my rear blade is not the best tool for the job. If you have access to a box blade with scarifier teeth on it that would be best. You could score the earth first and then try to remove it with the FEL. I have never used a box blade so maybe some others can jump in here with some better detail on their use.

Bluen · Jun 16, 2003

Spencer,

Thanks for the advice! The toothbar is the bolt-on "teeth" to the FEL? I've heard that this would make the FEL much more effective for digging but I didn't realize it would help leveling as well...

Don

Bluen · Jun 16, 2003

Lloyd,

Ok, but I'm new to this... What's "2 sticks and string method"?

Thanks!

Don

Bluen · Jun 16, 2003

Yup, I've seen that once I've dug the rear tires in or made "waves" things just get worse until those areas are re-leveled...

Bluen · Jun 16, 2003

Jinman,

Thanks for the advice. I don't own a boxblade yet so I'll have to make due with the FEL for now. Sounds like a good approach though. I'm trying to cut into the ground going forward with a slight downward angle on the bucket and then level the area by draggin the bucket in reverse over the same ground. Sometimes this works, sometimes not so well...

Don