Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[jthibodeau89]

Went to Flailmaster yesterday to get a fill set of spare blades and d-rings for both JD390 and JD25A. At first my wife said they only had 75 of the FM-7 blades left so i said to buy all of them. She then texted that they actually had about 12,000 of the FM-7. So i revised my order from all to just 84. May decide to buy another set of 84 just in case. Will be very sorry to see them close.

 

[leonz]

I took the new-to-me Caroni TM1900 out for a spin. Just a shake down cruise.

I got some lower bushings to make it fit on the quick hitch and used the y-yoke adapter on the top since the TM1900 isn't quick hitch compatible. Kinda fit OK.

Well, the mower seems to work just fine. This is my first PTO powered attachment, so it was a learning curve. Getting the PTO attached was more work than it should have been. Wouldn't slide together and I thought I was spinning the shaft to get them to align, but apparently not. I gave the PTO clutch some power so it would stop in a different location and it slid together just fine. Live and learn.

The first thing I did was check for PTO interference with the quick hitch. Yep, that don't work too well. I can't lower the flail all the way without hitting the PTO on the top cross bar. Darn! I went out and cut some briars with the flail floating a few inches off the ground. Worked fine. Not bad for a used piece of equipment. Looks like I need to find a solution for the PTO/quick hitch interference or run without the quick hitch.

No pictures. I'll see if I can work with it some more tomorrow.

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Hello Michael In Tennessee,


If I have not done it already I want to welcome you as the newest resident member of the "Flail Mower Nations" from the great State of Tennessee.

If you have not done it already can you extend the lower link arms out further??? that will help some.

 

[dieselscout80]

Forget the quick hitch. And running with the mower up off the ground is not good.

I'm curious why you say "running with the mower up off the ground is not good"?

I clip my pastures and I seldom cut them shorter than 8" and I do not have any issues with my flail mower, however if the roller is on the ground the highest I can cut is less than 5".

Carey

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

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Hello Michael In Tennessee,


If I have not done it already I want to welcome you as the newest resident member of the "Flail Mower Nations" from the great State of Tennessee.

If you have not done it already can you extend the lower link arms out further??? that will help some.

You did. I also sent you a private message asking for the Caroni owners manual.

 

[JWR]

I'm curious why you say "running with the mower up off the ground is not good"?

I clip my pastures and I seldom cut them shorter than 8" and I do not have any issues with my flail mower, however if the roller is on the ground the highest I can cut is less than 5".

Carey

Reasonable question Carey -- It was my opinion. I said it because the flail mowers are designed to be used with the roller on the ground, controlling the distance between the knives and the vegetation or soil or whatever. My use of the flail mower is on a wide variety of ground that is generally not smooth, usually has ruts and has mainly "pasturefield" characteristics rather than landscaped turf areas. If I ran the mower suspended from my 3pt hitch and not riding the ground then I am contributing/adding to the already nuisance level of 'bounce' at my seat which is unavoidable AND the mower will be constantly changing in ground clearance, thus producing a cut that varies in height and looks like crap. Anyway, that is my reasoning.

I too have a question: Prefaced by saying of course we each have individual circumstances and preferences that differ... but why do you want to cut 8" and higher ? If I bother to cut a section of land at all, spending time, fuel and wear and tear, then I want to cut it shorter than 8".

 

[dieselscout80]

Reasonable question Carey -- It was my opinion. I said it because the flail mowers are designed to be used with the roller on the ground, controlling the distance between the knives and the vegetation or soil or whatever. My use of the flail mower is on a wide variety of ground that is generally not smooth, usually has ruts and has mainly "pasturefield" characteristics rather than landscaped turf areas. If I ran the mower suspended from my 3pt hitch and not riding the ground then I am contributing/adding to the already nuisance level of 'bounce' at my seat which is unavoidable AND the mower will be constantly changing in ground clearance, thus producing a cut that varies in height and looks like crap. Anyway, that is my reasoning.

I too have a question: Prefaced by saying of course we each have individual circumstances and preferences that differ... but why do you want to cut 8" and higher ? If I bother to cut a section of land at all, spending time, fuel and wear and tear, then I want to cut it shorter than 8".

I graze the pastures and that seems to leave a good amount of grass for grazing and still keeps the weeds from taking over.

 

[JWR]

I graze the pastures and that seems to leave a good amount of grass for grazing and still keeps the weeds from taking over.

Sure. Logical for your situation.

 

[thoner7]

I bought a 7' Ford 917 in the fall. I was only able to mow with it a few times before winter.

I used it behind my old, beat up Massey 150. That should have 38 hp at the PTO.

38 hp is definitely not enough. Not even close really. Since it's a Cat 1...wouldn't that top out at 45 hp??? I'm not sure 45 hp would be enough, honestly.

So, what gives? I need a 4x4 tractor anyways, but don't know where to start. How much HP do I need??? Certainly Ford wouldn't make a Cat 1 implement that needs 50+ hp... Would they?

 

[Reg]

I bought a 7' Ford 917 in the fall. I was only able to mow with it a few times before winter.

I used it behind my old, beat up Massey 150. That should have 38 hp at the PTO.

38 hp is definitely not enough. Not even close really. Since it's a Cat 1...wouldn't that top out at 45 hp??? I'm not sure 45 hp would be enough, honestly.

So, what gives? I need a 4x4 tractor anyways, but don't know where to start. How much HP do I need??? Certainly Ford wouldn't make a Cat 1 implement that needs 50+ hp... Would they?

As with SO MANY THINGS ...it depends.

It depends on
a) How tough the growth is, i.e. the TYPE of vegetation you are mowing
b) How recently it was cut
c) How fast you try to get through it.
d) and of course how much acreage you are dealing with and how much time you can budget for it.

SOME combination of these variables may work for you - even with little more than a garden tractorette.

If you have it why not mount it and take a test mow ?
See if you can do an acceptable area in some reasonable amount of time - whatever that may be to you.
Do the arithmetic to figure out what it will take to do it ALL - take a guess at if you could cut that
time down by going up a gear or two once it is under control, i.e. maintenance mowing can be a lot
faster than clearing mowing.
.
Just buying a bigger tractor without a benchmark of what your 38 can do with that mower on YOUR land
against YOUR vegetation ...seems foolhardy (to ME).

 

[Reg]

I bought a 7' Ford 917 in the fall. I was only able to mow with it a few times before winter.

I used it behind my old, beat up Massey 150. That should have 38 hp at the PTO.

38 hp is definitely not enough. Not even close really. Since it's a Cat 1...wouldn't that top out at 45 hp??? I'm not sure 45 hp would be enough, honestly.

So, what gives? I need a 4x4 tractor anyways, but don't know where to start. How much HP do I need??? Certainly Ford wouldn't make a Cat 1 implement that needs 50+ hp... Would they?

As with SO MANY THINGS ...it depends.

It depends on
a) How tough the growth is, i.e. the TYPE of vegetation you are mowing
b) How recently it was cut
c) How fast you try to get through it.
d) and of course how much acreage you are dealing with and how much time you can budget for it.

SOME combination of these variables may work for you - even with little more than a garden tractorette.

If you have it why not mount it and take a test mow ?
See if you can do an acceptable area in some reasonable amount of time - whatever that may be to you.
Do the arithmetic to figure out what it will take to do it ALL - take a guess at if you could cut that
time down by going up a gear or two once it is under control, i.e. maintenance mowing can be a lot
faster than clearing mowing.
.
Just buying a bigger tractor without a benchmark of what your 38 can do with that mower on YOUR land
against YOUR vegetation ...seems foolhardy (to ME).

 

[Molalla1]

You need 6 hp per foot minimum . . . "old Massey 150" with 38 hp and probably dose not have anymore is a little lacking to say the least :confused3:.

 

[Fallon]

The material has a lot to do with it. Not a lot if thick lush plants here in Colorado. My 32 engine HP (probably 25 PTO) L3200 did ok with a 7' 917. It struggled with the really green thick patches that were 3' high & went slow but got the job done.

 

[Industrial Toys]

That's what I was thinking. PTO vs engine hp. Our commy made 42PTO hp Universal (Fiat) ran our 6 foot 917 without issue.

There comes a point where no amount of hp will deal with high lush vegetation. I just waited for stuff like that to dry out and cut it once a year in the fall. Or, you have to keep on top of it.

 

[D2Cat]

Might just shift down a gear for the first round, then don't take a full cut when the tractor can't cut the full width.

 

[Lnk]

Also depends on what blades you have. Side slicers seem to require less hp than scoop blades. Not sure why, but that has been my experience. Thick green grass will challenge even my 70 hp deutz. I have to slow down, a lot. The flail just can't chew and eject thick green grass fast enough. Either wait until dry, or mow more often. 38 up may not seem like enough, but it will work, just not fast, at least until you get your fields in control.

Good luck.

 

[thoner7]

I need to cut thick grass and weeds about 3' high once a year in early July. Then I'll cut it when it's about 16" the rest of the year.



I don't think that 6hp per foot is a good rule of thumb for my conditions. First gear on my current tractor is too far to cut the tall stuff.

The mower came with the airplane wing style knives. How much would I realistically gain by switching?

Planning on buying a new tractor anyways. Used. the 40+ hp tractors used seem to be roughly the same price as the 60-70 hp ones. So $$$ isn't the issue. They would just be bigger/heavier, and I'd prefer to stay smaller.

 

[Lnk]

I need to cut thick grass and weeds about 3' high once a year in early July. Then I'll cut it when it's about 16" the rest of the year.



I don't think that 6hp per foot is a good rule of thumb for my conditions. First gear on my current tractor is too far to cut the tall stuff.

The mower came with the airplane wing style knives. How much would I realistically gain by switching?

Planning on buying a new tractor anyways. Used. the 40+ hp tractors used seem to be roughly the same price as the 60-70 hp ones. So $$$ isn't the issue. They would just be bigger/heavier, and I'd prefer to stay smaller.

How big an area are you talking about? Also, where abouts are you?

 

[zonedar]

Hi all,

Been reading this thread the past couple of days and finally pulled the trigger and stopped lurking. Haven't got through the thread yet. But I shall endeavor to persevere. Thanks to all the contributors, BTW!

Recently purchased a B2601 HST. Thinking I need to spring for a flail mower. We live on five acres of timber (Doug fir and maples). Forest floor isn't too bad but there is some debris from thinning/logging we had done as well as blackberries and assorted brush. Not real thick. Branches are all pretty much less than a few inches. We live in a bowl and the grade in places can get pretty steep (I'll be real careful).

Wondering what size (and brand) flail mower is practical. Tractor tools direct recommends Ibex TX52 Flail Mower for the B series. Is this going to be practical and would I be able to run hammers if I decided to go that way.


Thanks!

-Steve

 

[thoner7]

How big an area are you talking about? Also, where abouts are you?

I'm in Western NY. Probably 10-12 acres.

I'm also not opposed to selling this one and buying a 6 footer either. But with that I'd still want like 45+ at the PTO to be safe, so I'm still looking at the same tractors basically.

 

[ronjhall]

Hi all,

Been reading this thread the past couple of days and finally pulled the trigger and stopped lurking. Haven't got through the thread yet. But I shall endeavor to persevere. Thanks to all the contributors, BTW!

Recently purchased a B2601 HST. Thinking I need to spring for a flail mower. We live on five acres of timber (Doug fir and maples). Forest floor isn't too bad but there is some debris from thinning/logging we had done as well as blackberries and assorted brush. Not real thick. Branches are all pretty much less than a few inches. We live in a bowl and the grade in places can get pretty steep (I'll be real careful).

Wondering what size (and brand) flail mower is practical. Tractor tools direct recommends Ibex TX52 Flail Mower for the B series. Is this going to be practical and would I be able to run hammers if I decided to go that way.


Thanks!

-Steve

I have a Woodmaxx FM62-H for my B2910. It has 22 hp pto. I have hammers and Y blades. Hammer's can bog the engine down where the Y's did not. 52" should be about right for your 17.5 hp pto. Ibex says the TX52 is for a 20 to 40 hp tractor. Does not state that is pto hp. Woodmaxx states there 54" flail mower is for 18 to 40 pto hp.