Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[Jack Yuan]

The MFZ model is a different unit than the EF/EFG/EFGH ones that Titan and Victory sell. Looks sturdier. Maybe it's the photos but the hammer flails look much shorter than the EFG style to me.

MFZ use 3.3 lbs hammer with teeth, EFGC use 1.7 lbs hammer. MFZ hammer is used for bigger branch up to 2 inch.

By the way, I notice some US seller claim their 2.5lbs hammer could mow 4" branch, are you kidding me? They can cheat customers but not me. It's 4 inch branch like a tree, this is flail mower, not forest mulcher. As I know, there is no Chinese manufacturer produce real forest mulcher till now, it is on some factories' wishlist but not now.

 

[Jack Yuan]

Hello Lagreex1,


I want to welcome you as the newest member of the Flail Mower Nations from the great state of Indiana.

If both of your lower links can be extended I would definitely extend them as you will have a better balanced mower and mule.


Take your time when you begin mowing as you have a short implement mounted on the rear of the mule.
You have to remember that quick turns while driving at transport speeds are not a thing to do with a raised flail mower.

When you get to do a lot of mowing your going to have a lot of fine dust from mowing and the heat drying up the grass that sticks to the mower shroud and the rest of the parts.

The fine dust screen in front of the radiator(if it has one) may plug more often too so plan on using hot water to help wash the radiator out and flush the chaff and dust screen if it has one.

I always tell everyone that the tattle tale vacuum indicators on the air filters are not to be trusted as they can and will be affected by fine dust. I do not like dry paper air filters as I found that oil bath air cleaners are much more reliable as they have pre cleaner dust cups that remove the heavy dust from the air stream and that cannot plug.

Best thing to do is just wash it off with really hot water in a hand held lawn sprayer with filled with some Dawn Dish Soap when the dust gets to be noticeable as it will get into everything and the guide tubes for the rails. Washing under the mower shroud occasionally will help to dissolve the grass dust that will accumulate on everything and the bolt threads on the knife hangers.

Welcome to the Flail Mower Nations.


Happy mowing.






Happy mowing

Hi Leonz, you just mention a point about dust screen. I would like to talk about the front flaps on the flail mower. Most flail mowers in Europe, they are using a strong steel plate as front protection which I call it front flaps. It can prevent dust fly out from the front, much better than chain. That's why I doesn't produce any of them with front chain.

In my point of view, front chain is cheaper cost solution than flaps.

It's an important point when I design my flail mowers, I think most Chinese manufactuer don't care or don't know about this point, and many US manufacturer don't care about it too. Look at thoes top level Europe flail mowers, they are quite impressive.

 

[ursa]

Is there any ditch bank Flail mowers out there that can reliably cut heavier brush but at an affordable price? I am considering either the Victory Heavy Duty Verge Flail or the Betstco/Value Leader Heavy Duty Verge Flail. Here are the pros and cons, please chime in:

- The Betstco/Value Leader weighs in at 350lbs heavier and claims to be able to cut 4" material. It has an openable rear deck if you dont need fine mulching. Appears to be a beastly machine, 1660lbs!
61″ Gold Ditch Bank Flail Mower, VL-AGFN16 | Betstco

- The Victory is around $700 cheaper. From what they say it can cut up to 2-1/2" material.
https://etractorimplements.com/produ...il-mower-copy/

What I can't figure out is if the Betstco is really that much better, to the extent that it really can cut 4" material? What would allow it to cut that size material if the other one cannot?

Has anyone seen the actual quality of the welds on either of these brands, the hydraulics, the fit and finish and general quality of the products? It is hard to compare these two when I cannot see them in person.

I have a Branson 5220 with FEL and loaded tires. 55hp Engine, 47HP PTO, probably weighs around 6000lbs accounting for FEL and Loaded Tires. I plan to cut heavy brush and saplings to maintain roads 70% of the time, otherwise regular field mowing.

 

[Ribz]

Hi Leonz, you just mention a point about dust screen. I would like to talk about the front flaps on the flail mower. Most flail mowers in Europe, they are using a strong steel plate as front protection which I call it front flaps. It can prevent dust fly out from the front, much better than chain. That's why I doesn't produce any of them with front chain.

In my point of view, front chain is cheaper cost solution than flaps.



It's an important point when I design my flail mowers, I think most Chinese manufactuer don't care or don't know about this point, and many US manufacturer don't care about it too. Look at thoes top level Europe flail mowers, they are quite impressive.

Jack, what brand flail mower do you produce?

 

[StuartDK45SE]

I have a crazy question. I have a Woodmaxx FM-78 on the way. I have a lot of dead thatch in my hay field from last year. What I need is a tedder (working on it) to get this stuff off the ground where the mower can help chop it up and make it go away. Short of that, would it be possible to remove some of the flail blades and replace them with rake teeth that are just long enough to skim the ground to fluff up the dead thatch? I don't know that the rake teeth would have enough mass to stay extended, but the thatch doesn't take much to fluff. Of course you would have to remove the correct blades to keep things balanced. Thoughts?

 

[lostcreekranch]

I have a crazy question. I have a Woodmaxx FM-78 on the way. I have a lot of dead thatch in my hay field from last year. What I need is a tedder (working on it) to get this stuff off the ground where the mower can help chop it up and make it go away. Short of that, would it be possible to remove some of the flail blades and replace them with rake teeth that are just long enough to skim the ground to fluff up the dead thatch? I don't know that the rake teeth would have enough mass to stay extended, but the thatch doesn't take much to fluff. Of course you would have to remove the correct blades to keep things balanced. Thoughts?

Do you have or have access to a simple chain harrow? That works very well for me.

 

[StuartDK45SE]

Do you have or have access to a simple chain harrow? That works very well for me.

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking about a chain harrow last night. Does it not get clogged up? I also have thought about a landscape rake and removing most of the teeth to where it doesn't move material.

 

[Jack Yuan]

I have a crazy question. I have a Woodmaxx FM-78 on the way. I have a lot of dead thatch in my hay field from last year. What I need is a tedder (working on it) to get this stuff off the ground where the mower can help chop it up and make it go away. Short of that, would it be possible to remove some of the flail blades and replace them with rake teeth that are just long enough to skim the ground to fluff up the dead thatch? I don't know that the rake teeth would have enough mass to stay extended, but the thatch doesn't take much to fluff. Of course you would have to remove the correct blades to keep things balanced. Thoughts?

I think what you want is this type knife. The middle knife is long and used to cut grass root. But woodmaxx doesn't have this type knife. You can find it on market if you are lucky enough. I think there is only nearly 1 inch between FM-78's flail rotation radius and mower housing, maybe not enough space for this kind knife.

Another risk is that it will break the rotor balance if you replace some hammers.

So I don't suggest you to do so.

 

[lostcreekranch]

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking about a chain harrow last night. Does it not get clogged up? I also have thought about a landscape rake and removing most of the teeth to where it doesn't move material.

Mine doesn’t get clogged up at all. I do my pastures at least once per year.

 

[powerscol]

I have a crazy question. I have a Woodmaxx FM-78 on the way. I have a lot of dead thatch in my hay field from last year. What I need is a tedder (working on it) to get this stuff off the ground where the mower can help chop it up and make it go away. Short of that, would it be possible to remove some of the flail blades and replace them with rake teeth that are just long enough to skim the ground to fluff up the dead thatch? I don't know that the rake teeth would have enough mass to stay extended, but the thatch doesn't take much to fluff. Of course you would have to remove the correct blades to keep things balanced. Thoughts?

As mentioned use a drag harrow, then use the flail in a low setting. If you set the flail correctly it will act as a vacuum and pull the material up and into the blades. If dry will end up being chopped into a fine bits.