Ok, good to know others mow this way. Definitely easier being extended and seeing it in the mirror than turning around. Good point on the length, I didn’t verify it when purchased two years ago. Dealer said it was ready to go. Measured the gap now and need 60”-82”. I’ll try to measure the old shaft.
Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers
- Thread starter TNhobbyfarmer
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LMychajluk
Silver Member
Speaking of Ditch Bank Mowers, what's the common setup when using it in the typical mower mode (level and directly behind the tractor)?
I recently got the MechMaxx Ditch Bank Mower... there's not much info in the manual in setting it up, but there's a bit more in the Offset Mower manual, so I went with that. I lowered the roller to the lowest setting (highest cutting height), used the lower 'hole' in the top link bracket vs the 'slot', adjusted the top link to lift the front of the mower a bit, checked the torque on the hammers, and off I went to mow some light brush alongside a trail. An hour later I was missing 7 of the 8 right-most hammers - it seems like the bolts all broke (I found one, one or two were still hanging in the brackets, and I found 4/7 of the hammers).
Should I be using the 'slot' (to provide a bit of float to the front/back tilt)? I'm assuming I want to keep the roller on the ground, w/ the mower tilted up a bit in the front(?).
I recently got the MechMaxx Ditch Bank Mower... there's not much info in the manual in setting it up, but there's a bit more in the Offset Mower manual, so I went with that. I lowered the roller to the lowest setting (highest cutting height), used the lower 'hole' in the top link bracket vs the 'slot', adjusted the top link to lift the front of the mower a bit, checked the torque on the hammers, and off I went to mow some light brush alongside a trail. An hour later I was missing 7 of the 8 right-most hammers - it seems like the bolts all broke (I found one, one or two were still hanging in the brackets, and I found 4/7 of the hammers).
Should I be using the 'slot' (to provide a bit of float to the front/back tilt)? I'm assuming I want to keep the roller on the ground, w/ the mower tilted up a bit in the front(?).
LouNY
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I run mine with the top link in the slot to give a bit of float to it, also the lift/angle cylinder on mine has a slot to allow the mower some tilt float. I tend to trim the lift/angle cylinder while mowing on uneven terrain to try and keep the cylinder centered in that slot unless the outer end needs to be lifted for some reason.
LMychajluk
Silver Member
Thx. I'll move the top link back to the slot, but I may need a longer top-link to keep it tilted back for a minimum cutting height. I think I may have the slots on the side cylinder as well (I also have a CKse), so I'll try that, too.
JWR
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How light was that brush? I'm a little surprised that you lost hammers in the situation you describe. I run "Y" flails rather than hammers and lose a few in every extended work period of pasture clearing and clipping. They just won't stand unforeseen limbs, posts, rocks, etc. Because of that I only use the fail mower in "tame" areas where rocks, limbs and debris are not present or at least rare. A lot of guys on here are using the hammer (rather than Y flails) and describe cutting some pretty ferocious brush without losing cutters. Back to the practice/technique/setup: Your 3pt hitch is inherently floating. I don't see any need for slotted links. For one thing slotted links would allow rocking motion of the mower about the axis of the roller besides normal up and down. I do not like that idea and do not see any advantage of it. As far as general operation, my understanding is these things are intended to ride on the roller continuously. Once you choose a roller position in the side frames the cutting depth is controlled by your top link (which is why I consider an hydraulic top link to be a necessity for using a flail mower.) You set cutting depth with that top link.
K5lwq
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On my ditch bank mower, I don’t use my top link to set the height. I have found I have a better cut by using the lift arms to level the mower and adjust my lever stop to that point and tighten it down.
Then I adjust my top link to the mid point in the slot so the mower can follow the curvature of the ground better. I also mow with the rotate cylinder valve in float.
Then I adjust my top link to the mid point in the slot so the mower can follow the curvature of the ground better. I also mow with the rotate cylinder valve in float.
Mtsoxfan
Platinum Member
So, on uneven terrain, wouldn't it make more sense to use a chain as a top link, to prevent damage? Same with a brush hog? I can see using a toplink with level ground...
brewdog
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I have a 48” flail for my small tractor and its been excellent. Cuts, grinds and pulverizes brush, grass and garden clean up and vines. I would say its slower than a rotary cutter for sure. It doesn’t fling debris and long chunks and sticks around like the rotary cutters do. The State uses flails for clean up along the roadways. You can imagine the trash and junk those flails deal with. I like the compactness of the flail vs the rotary cutters.
leonz
Super Member
No, the rigid top link prevents the flail mower from tipping
forward and causing damage to the flail mower rotor.
The left and right lower link create the level X axis and the
top link creates the Y axis for the proper mowing height
from side to side.
The right lower link is used for in furrow plowing where
the right wheels are riding in the furrow depth of cut by
adjusting the travel of the right lower link to allow the
toe of the leveled moldboard plow to reach the desired
depth of slice/suck to open the furrow.
Once the lower links and top link create the triangle for
the solid mounting of the mower to the tractor the rear
roller is moved up to reduce the mowing height of cut or
lowered to raise the height of cut.
Once the lower links are leveled and locked in place by
the tightening of the depth adjustment knob you are
ready to mow.
The other methods of managing the cutting height are the
use of 2 caster wheels in front or 4 caster wheels-2 in front
and 2 in the rear and using the height control washers to raise
the flail mower shroud of the mower up or down leaving the
rear roller elevated slightly.
This reduces the amount of pressure gradient created by the
rotation of the flail mower rotor and the lift created by the flail
mower scoop/side slicer or hammer knives.
Land leveling with a scraper and or filling in dips and ruts with sand
are the only real ways to avoid scalping with rotary cutters or rotary
mowers.
LMychajluk
Silver Member
In my 'test run', I was mowing the brush alongside a trail under the power lines in the back of the property. The power company had come in and mulched everything under the lines within the last 2 years, so there was nothing that was really thick. What the mower cut, it seemed to do a pretty good job on. I'm wondering if the M12 bolts that were used to hold the hammers are just cheap (there's no indication in the manual what grade they should be).
I'd be OK w/ a 3-4" cutting height if I can set my top link accordingly. I'm using both my remotes for the mower, so if I add a hydraulic top link, I would need an additional remote or diverter. I don't think using a chain (@Mtsoxfan) is the way to go, because you don't want it tilting forward more than you want.
