Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[thoner7]

I don't see how the mower can sink like you mention as it is all the way down already and if the front is tilted up via the top link there should be no scalping because of that. Your top link looks to be a manual, not the cylinder type like I have so how can the mower sink down?

My 3 point lift arms are not 'bottomed out' when my mower is mounted on flat ground. So if you imagine the tractor backed up to the edge of a cliff, the mower would drop maybe a foot before 'bottoming out' the lift arms and hanging in mid air.

So I'm thinking if I set my lift arms up so that this settling didn't occur, it might help with the scalping.

This mower has been a real PITA. It cuts nice but I'm kinda wishing I just bought a nice brush hog.

 

[leonz]

My 3 point lift arms are not 'bottomed out' when my mower is mounted on flat ground. So if you imagine the tractor backed up to the edge of a cliff, the mower would drop maybe a foot before 'bottoming out' the lift arms and hanging in mid air.

So I'm thinking if I set my lift arms up so that this settling didn't occur, it might help with the scalping.

This mower has been a real PITA. It cuts nice but I'm kinda wishing I just bought a nice brush hog.

================================================================================================


From what it appears in your photo image the problem is that the original anti scalp skids are gone.
At some time prior to this the skids were removed or worn off.

Properly adjusted skids prevent the mower from nosediving and breaking side slicer knives and knife hangers


If you are able to loosen the clamp bolts for both the lower links go ahead and reposition the lower link arms up at least 2 teeth counter clockwise that will help a lot. if you have telescoping lower link arms on that mule unclip them and remove them before loosening the clamp bolt for both lower links so you have less weight to deal with and after you have reset their position by 2 teeth reset and pin the lower links with the arms fully extended.

Use a fine tip sharpie to locate the gear tooth at 12:00 before you remove the lower links as it will be easier to manage and not cause the lower links to be off a degree or 2 as remounting the mower or other implement will become a real PIA.

Use the sharpie to mark the inside position of the two teeth to the left of the 12:00 position ON THE STUB SHAFT and you will not lose track of the point where you must set the lower link arm. Please be careful when removing it as it is going to be very heavy.

Perhaps if you have a sheave pulley you can hang it over 2 or three rafters with a piece of rope prior to removing the lower link lift arms as it will prevent any surprises like losing your grip on the lower link arm-been there done that NOT PRETTY even the small ones hurt.



If you have telescoping lower links on this mule they should be pulled out all the way and then pinned back into place.

Flail mowers with wheel sets mounted in front prevent scalping more effectively and keep the mower from dropping and breaking knives and knife hangers.


Happy mowing Thoner7

 

[thoner7]

================================================================================================


From what it appears in your photo image the problem is that the original anti scalp skids are gone.
At some time prior to this the skids were removed or worn off.

Properly adjusted skids prevent the mower from nosediving and breaking side slicer knives and knife hangers


If you are able to loosen the clamp bolts for both the lower links go ahead and reposition the lower link arms up at least 2 teeth counter clockwise that will help a lot. if you have telescoping lower link arms on that mule unclip them and remove them before loosening the clamp bolt for both lower links so you have less weight to deal with and after you have reset their position by 2 teeth reset and pin the lower links with the arms fully extended.

Use a fine tip sharpie to locate the gear tooth at 12:00 before you remove the lower links as it will be easier to manage and not cause the lower links to be off a degree or 2 as remounting the mower or other implement will become a real PIA.

Use the sharpie to mark the inside position of the two teeth to the left of the 12:00 position ON THE STUB SHAFT and you will not lose track of the point where you must set the lower link arm. Please be careful when removing it as it is going to be very heavy.

Perhaps if you have a sheave pulley you can hang it over 2 or three rafters with a piece of rope prior to removing the lower link lift arms as it will prevent any surprises like losing your grip on the lower link arm-been there done that NOT PRETTY even the small ones hurt.



If you have telescoping lower links on this mule they should be pulled out all the way and then pinned back into place.

Flail mowers with wheel sets mounted in front prevent scalping more effectively and keep the mower from dropping and breaking knives and knife hangers.


Happy mowing Thoner7

I can assure you the mower has all the pieces there. I have the manual which shows the mower as it is, plus pictures of other units online look the same.

So unfortunately my problem is more than just missing skids. Maybe it was an older, bad design.

Looking at it now compared to other brands, it's much shorter than other makes. The other, deeper ones Naturally have more protection via the skids. I trip to the welder may be in order......

 

[Xfaxman]

My 3 point lift arms are not 'bottomed out' when my mower is mounted on flat ground. So if you imagine the tractor backed up to the edge of a cliff, the mower would drop maybe a foot before 'bottoming out' the lift arms and hanging in mid air.

So I'm thinking if I set my lift arms up so that this settling didn't occur, it might help with the scalping.

--------------------------

You can try some "check chains" to keep the lift arms from going lower:

 

[DieselBound]

Anyone recognize this flail, who the manufacturer might be?

 

[DieselBound]

I think I figured it out. Looks like it's a Mathews Company product. Not sure the vintage. Here's a comparable, model stated as 7HDCL:

MATHEWS COMPANY 7HDCL For Sale - YouTube

Stalk chopper. Paddle type flails which aren't likely available and which won't serve the purpose I need: I need to cut grass and tree debris.

 

[leonz]

Hello DieselBound,

The paddle knives should still be available from Clean Cutter or Mathews. They will cut grass for you but they will not recut the grass unless its brittle.

If you need to break up pruning debris you will need a flail mower with heat treated/hardened side slicer knives or make two or three passes over the
tree debris to break it up with the paddle flail shredder..

 

[def38]

Has anyone installed standard grass knives on the Chicomm flail from Titan/Palletforks in place of the standard hammer flails? If so, where do you order them? While the hammers are fine at destroying Buick hubcaps and other debris, I would like a more finished cut at some point once I have the field in Bermuda. Thanks.

 

[Okie Again]

Called Woodmaxx they could not figure anything for sure but because it is less than a year old they are sending me a new hydraulic cylinder.

Well I put on the new hydraulic cylinder and it took care of it. It now slide just like new. Thanks for all the advice

 

[arto98607]

Has anyone installed standard grass knives on the Chicomm flail from Titan/Palletforks in place of the standard hammer flails? If so, where do you order them? While the hammers are fine at destroying Buick hubcaps and other debris, I would like a more finished cut at some point once I have the field in Bermuda. Thanks.

Sorry no chicomm flail mower experience, but I put these from Flailmaster on my Ford 917L just recently.
They cut my field pretty nice and can handle small sticks & branches fine, but I am trying to avoid bigger pieces of wood - work so well that I just bought a second set for future spares.

They were close to dollar apiece including shipping cost.







Here is OEM vs. Mott's MH386

I had to drill the holes from 7/16 to 3/8"