Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers
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vvanders
Platinum Member
Couple more photos from taking our 54" Caroni out for a spin(har har) the other day. Really impressed with how it did on the hood-level brush. More than a few thistles and blackberry bushes in there that were no match. One thing I did notice is some of the tall grass would occasionally get missed an pop back up. I'm mowing at 4" so I'm assuming if I set it lower that wouldn't happen? We still want to leave some graze for our livestock so I think I'll leave it at that level for now.
Also, does everyone adjust their skids when they adjust cutting height? I know that's what the manual says to adjust them both but changing 10 bolts is a pain. If the skids are just to keep the flail from hitting the ground wouldn't just having it at close to the lowest setting make changing the height much simpler.
Also, does everyone adjust their skids when they adjust cutting height? I know that's what the manual says to adjust them both but changing 10 bolts is a pain. If the skids are just to keep the flail from hitting the ground wouldn't just having it at close to the lowest setting make changing the height much simpler.
Fallon
Super Member
No, skids just keep the rotor & to some degree the flails from hitting the ground. I always leave my skids up. Sometimes I run it really low so the flails graze the dirt. Like this week right before I had an arena tilling job. Rough on the flails I expect, but they have survived worse for over 2 years. Lost a couple flails finally the other day to a softball sized rock (dam that field was trashy).Couple more photos from taking our 54" Caroni out for a spin(har har) the other day. Really impressed with how it did on the hood-level brush. More than a few thistles and blackberry bushes in there that were no match. One thing I did notice is some of the tall grass would occasionally get missed an pop back up. I'm mowing at 4" so I'm assuming if I set it lower that wouldn't happen? We still want to leave some graze for our livestock so I think I'll leave it at that level for now.
Also, does everyone adjust their skids when they adjust cutting height? I know that's what the manual says to adjust them both but changing 10 bolts is a pain. If the skids are just to keep the flail from hitting the ground wouldn't just having it at close to the lowest setting make changing the height much simpler.
Mine cuts fine despite the wear & abuse on the side slicers, so I don't feel the need to bother sharpening them.
Steave
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Glad to have you over here Roy. Watch out you might learn something :laughing: . Do you own a flail mower? I've got a couple of old beaters but they cut good. I don't think I have them listed in my profile, one is a Mott 72 and the other is a Ford 907. Mott = Finish. . . .Ford = Rough cut (sorta)
vvanders
Platinum Member
Got it, yeah I couldn't figure why the manual wanted to change 10 bolts each time you switch mowing height. Doing them by hand with a breaker bar is a pain.
RoyJackson
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Well I sorta own a Caroni TM 1900...bought and paid for, hasn't been delivered yet.
Since I'm not familiar with Flail Mowers, I joined this thread to learn a few things. There are a couple guys on the thread who do have pretty extensive knowledge of Caroni flail mowers.
Steave
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If I'm ever in the market for a new or newer flail I'd check out the Caroni closely. From what most say about them you can't go wrong. I'd hate to think I had to make a decision on what to buy if that time ever comes. When it comes to dropping 2 grand or more I get very indecisive like a squirrel trying to cross the road.
Hieronymous
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Well I got my belts last Saturday but, when it came to fitment, I discovered that they were the wrong ones. Far too big. There's no tension to speak of even with the tensioner fully screwed in. Back to the place I bought them from. Pita!
PRCWI
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Finally had a chance to get out and get some long overdue mowing in. Grass was hood high on my Oliver 770 in spots!
I have an Oliver 770 diesel with an aftermarket 3 point hitch paired with a Mott/Alamo SD88. Ideally I'd love 5-10 more HP but the vast majority of the time it's a great pairing.
I have an Oliver 770 diesel with an aftermarket 3 point hitch paired with a Mott/Alamo SD88. Ideally I'd love 5-10 more HP but the vast majority of the time it's a great pairing.
Last edited:
leonz
Super Member
Raising the skids is more useful when cutting good sod grass as you know what yopu are driving over at all times.
If you lower the rear roller to 2 inches in cutting height your animals/feed burners will have more grass shoots than they know what to do with. The more you top the sod(mow) the more weeds you will get rid of so no worries there either and the stalks will rot away as they will have no leaves to collect sunlight.
With the skids the primary concern is protecting the flail mower rotor, bearings and knife sets at all costs; so as long as the flail mower is absolutely level when mowing and the skids are 2 inches above the ground you will not have issues with scalping.
Where ever you set the cutting height you must set the mower level and you do this by using a torpedo level on the gearbox as you adjust the top link to dial it in.
(you must also be mindful of the lower links assuring that they cannot sink on you by either using the locking knob on the control valve)
I would feel so much better if all the manufacturers used a 4 wheel adjustment system to protect the mowers at all times and it would still let the mower ride on the rear roller.
It would cost more in purchase price but the mower would last longer than any mule tied to it as the the adjustments are done by using thick steel washers on the wheel sets by adding to the lower portion of the individual wheel weldment stub to raise the flail mowers cutting height from side to side and front to back or to lower the cutting height by removing them on all four corners and putting the washers on the top under the locking lynch pin to secure them and the mower is protected at all times.
If you lower the rear roller to 2 inches in cutting height your animals/feed burners will have more grass shoots than they know what to do with. The more you top the sod(mow) the more weeds you will get rid of so no worries there either and the stalks will rot away as they will have no leaves to collect sunlight.
With the skids the primary concern is protecting the flail mower rotor, bearings and knife sets at all costs; so as long as the flail mower is absolutely level when mowing and the skids are 2 inches above the ground you will not have issues with scalping.
Where ever you set the cutting height you must set the mower level and you do this by using a torpedo level on the gearbox as you adjust the top link to dial it in.
(you must also be mindful of the lower links assuring that they cannot sink on you by either using the locking knob on the control valve)
I would feel so much better if all the manufacturers used a 4 wheel adjustment system to protect the mowers at all times and it would still let the mower ride on the rear roller.
It would cost more in purchase price but the mower would last longer than any mule tied to it as the the adjustments are done by using thick steel washers on the wheel sets by adding to the lower portion of the individual wheel weldment stub to raise the flail mowers cutting height from side to side and front to back or to lower the cutting height by removing them on all four corners and putting the washers on the top under the locking lynch pin to secure them and the mower is protected at all times.