Arc weld
Veteran Member
A Ford 917 and most other flails aren't made for cutting brush. 2" brush needs a forestry mower or a heavy duty bush hog.
Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers
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IslandTractor
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Agree. One inch brush or similar sized saplings is about the practical limit for a medium duty (eg Caroni) mower. You can cut slightly bigger stuff by going carefully and slowly but it would be much faster to just mount a medium duty bush hog and plow through. The bush hog will leave a big mess compared to the flail but is far more practical. I cut bigger brush with the rotary (Woods Brush Bull 600) and then follow up a few weeks later with the flail to help pulverize the bigger debris left by the rotary.
OP
TNhobbyfarmer
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Agree totally. I wouldn't want to use my Ford 917 in saplings much more than 1/2". However, I will say that I have cut areas with knee high grass/weeds very successfully. It leaves a much cleaner look that a rotary.
nova3930
Gold Member
I rolled through some weeds that were over a mans head with mine and had no issues. I wouldn't want to use it on brush or saplings though.
IslandTractor
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Been a while since I posted the note below, but I just got around to doing a complete conversion to Flailmaster clevises and blades on my Caroni 1900. After busting a few more Caroni clevises mulching up some thicker/rougher stuff, I just wasn't willing to keep spending the ridiculous money on the Agri Supply Caroni parts. Changes/observations from when I mocked up the parts earlier: - Grinding is necessary, but relatively little - and even after doing so, the Flailmaster clevis is still more substantial than the Caroni/Agri Supply clevis. I initially didn't think it would be necessary, as the lone clevis I modified swung without interference. Turns out - it's extremely close, and the tabs on the drum are not very uniform. Some of the tabs are slightly narrower than others, so the clevises wouldn't swing completely free on all of them. Taking off 1/6" or so per side made the modified clevises swing freely on all the tabs. - My neighbor who has years more experience than I with such things suggested another change. He looked at some of the legs that remained from the broken clevises and suggested relieving the blade holes with a conical grinder head. His point being, that the edges of the blade holes are quite sharp and the material is hardened, and he could see where the sharp corners had worked their way through the Caroni clevises. While the Flailmaster clevises are far beefier, I still relieved all the top edges of the blade holes to hopefully reduce this effect. - Rather than using a bolt/nut to squeeze the Flailmaster clevises together to fit between the drum tabs, a good sized vice did the trick very quickly. Basically, just squeeze the ears together until you can just get a blade to slide over them. The whole conversion took a couple hours. I've about 2 hours mowing since doing so, all seems fine - works as well as before. I've got a job next week that will have me mowing some heavier brush and will report back on how these hold up. As an aside...I've got over 20 used original Caroni clevises that are certainly serviceable. If anyone is interested in them, I'll let them go far cheaper than new...<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/attachments/377666-lets-talk-flail-mowers-relievedblade-jpg"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/attachments/377667-lets-talk-flail-mowers-assembly-1-jpg"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/attachments/377668-lets-talk-flail-mowers-assembly-2-jpg"/>
DaNag,
How about an update on how the new Flailmaster clevises are working out? I just used up my last overpriced Caroni clevis and need to either order more or make the switch.
Also, how did you go about relieving the edges of the blade holes? Die grinder?
I noticed when I changed out a couple of broken clevises today that 1) they all break in exactly the same spot (corner) and that 2) by the time they break, the clevis bottom has worn considerably to about half the diameter of new ones... Seems the flail blades are indeed eating into the clevis and that a beefier clevis and softened knife mount holes might increase longevity.
nova3930
Gold Member
Man, broke the 917 again this past friday. Apparently I'm rough on equipment. Least it failed right at the point I was finishing mowing. Should have a few weeks before it needs it again.
One of the lift links split right where it comes through the frame. Looks like it was welded for the same failure sometime in the distant past. Since the previous weld lasted a good long time, I may try the same rather than dropping $ on a part.
One of the lift links split right where it comes through the frame. Looks like it was welded for the same failure sometime in the distant past. Since the previous weld lasted a good long time, I may try the same rather than dropping $ on a part.
OP
TNhobbyfarmer
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Nova, sorry to hear about your maintenance issues with the 917. Knock on wood, I have had few issues with my 917. I haven't used mine too much, so who knows what the future holds. These old pieces of equipment are always a crap shoot, but for the price vs new, it can be a good risk. I think welding that arm should be a cheap long term fix. Let us know how it works out.
nova3930
Gold Member
I thini mine has just seen some rough service over the years is all. Even with all the repairs and such I'm still in it for < $1000. Find me a new one for that price not shipped in on a slow boat from china. Be a world of difference if I wasn't handy with a wrench and had to pay someone everytime something broke...
Aside from your flail mower breakage, how's that Boomer handle the 917? Good matchup?
nova3930
Gold Member
Works great. Took on weeds taller than a man the first time I used it with no issues. Have yet to choke it down. Around 40 pto HP seems to be a good matchup...