Length of chain

[MChalkley]

Bob - Unfortunately, not so easy as you think. You didn't specify empty or full. I believe in using the right tool/chain for the job. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

MarkC

 

[scruffy]

Harv,
I see you have the items labled very nicely, now, if you could just add the name/description of use for each item to the label, it would be a great visual referance! Add one more 'pic' w/abc's! Puhleasssse?

 

[MChalkley]

Harv - Nice pics. One thing to note: Some hooks, etc. have the grade stamped on them (as in pic 'E', G43), while others don't. Generally, if they don't, they're G43, the weakest grade commonly available. The expression "A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link" is, of course, directly applicable to this discussion.

As a matter of principle, I mailorder all of my chain hardware because I won't buy anything like that (read anything my life may depend on) from China. I've broken a couple Chinese slip hooks using them for chokers. Nothing damaged, but nonetheless, never again.

MarkC

 

[Harv]

Scruffy -

I wasn't about to embarass myself by attaching what I think the names or uses are for these things./w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

I provided the generic labels so's the smart folk out there can refer to them as they tell us what they are./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[MChalkley]

Harv - You realize you severely limited your chances of getting such descriptive labels by suggesting that smart folks offer them, don't you? /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

MarkC

 

[Harv]

MarkC -

I was afraid I might be buying junk, but I have yet to find a walk-in store in my area that sells anything better. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

Fact is, I bought this stuff before I even had a tractor -- during those endless months of Kubota shopping. I was all excited about stepping into the world of heavy hardware and just grabbed up whatever I could find that mightbe useful.

All excuses (and about 50 bucks) aside, do you think I should use these 'til they break, use them for light duty only, or just huck 'em and start over with Labonville?

Don't spare my feelings -- I respect your opinion.

 

[Thomas]

Richard,
I use two types of chains.
1.1/4" at one end a slip hook and at the other end grab hook,about 20'long.
2.1/4"one end a grab hook and at the other end slip plus a grab hook,about 25'long.
3.3/8 chain one end a grab hook the other end a slip hook,about 25' long.

I bought my chains at heavy equipment dealer because of the chain grade.

Kinda like the saying goes "pay me now or pay me later" /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

If you really want to get fancy,there air craft cable also chain on the market. $$$ /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[MChalkley]

Harv - Appearances notwithstanding, I don't generally offer my opinion with the intent of dictating what you or anyone else should do, but merely to state I do. But since you asked...

In your particular situation, I wouldn't pitch them, but I would be mindful of how much stress I put on them. If you're using them in a situation where you're not putting anybody's health in harm's way, and they break, it's just an inconvenience and you can react accordingly by buying something better. On the other hand, you may never break them. As I've said before (many times), I'm a nut, and obsessive/compulsive about hardware to boot, so my preferences should be considered with that in mind.

Don't feel bad about the selection in your area, though. Your situation is very typical. That's why, as I said, I use mailorder - I can't find anything better locally, either.

If you decide to use them, and you break them, I would be interested in hearing how you managed it, though. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

MarkC

P.S. By the way, the device I use on my drawbar which I referred to as a "clevis" earlier is, I think, more correctly called a "shackle", and corresponds to item 'C' in your hardware menagerie, except for size.<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by MChalkley on 11/14/00 05:11 PM.</FONT></P>

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Here is a link to a mail order source for woodsman supplies that I use http://baileys-online.com. Choker chain, grab links, hammerlocks, wire rope, etc. Chainsaw supplies and safety equipment. I get all my chain loops thru them. Fast service. Ship from Calif. and Tenn.

 

[Harv]

DFB -

Thanks for the tip about Bailey's.

Since they actually have a western division in northern California, maybe shipping will be reasonable.

I've already ordered their free catalog. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[RobertN]

Cool! They have Mcleods for $52. Those go for over $100 at the Ace hardware here. Not many people know what they are, but they sure are handy!

In case you are wondering, they are "hoe like", and used for wild land firefighting. They are great for clearing and moving grass and small brush. They are a hoe, with a edge 9-3/4" wide, six rake teeth 3-1/2" long and a handle 4' long.

RobertN in Shingle Springs Calif

 

[gordon]

Along with Baileys here is another top quality company. More for chainsaw stuff. http://www.madsens1.com/
Gordon

 

[dullpain]

WVBill - Let me know if anyone tells you of source for those "WELDABLE" chain hooks for the FEL. I'm looking for some too. Have seen em in the past but now I have a need can't find em.

MChalkey - I tried to beat you on your answer to Harv on his chain hooks. My "Hoot & Holler" phone system out here in the sticks bounced me off. I love modem connections. You must have a HST keyboard.

Harv - Agree completely with Chalkey's findings on your hooks. I posted somewhere a while back my disappointment in looking at like items in my local TSC, Co-Op , Farmers Supply. Everything from China or India and of low quality. Don't chuck em just be aware of their limitations.

 

[Harv]

McCallum -

Thanks for the comments.

Okay, I won't chuck my chain hooks just yet -- maybe I'll see what it takes to break 'em.

It's possible my little 'L' is the weakest link. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[ERNIEB]

I've picked up several chains and booms from pawn shops. Most of it is the type used to chain down loads on flat beds./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif Good chains at a reasonable price.
ErnieB

 

[LazyK]

Ernie, did you get binders and shackles included?
Really good find if so. I scrounge garage sales and flea markets always on the look-out for that one good 16' 3/8 or better rigging w/ good binder(s) and hell for stout hooks...all for $15.
Yeah right...the scrounge goes on. Never thought to check out the pawn shops. Good lick!

Lazy K - Chip

 

[TomG]

Yes, I recently ended up with two 'made in China' 5/16th grab hooks. Everything about them is thicker (perhaps due to softer steel than U.S. made hooks).

Anyway, the thicker pin loops won't allow the hooks to rotate fully on standard 5/16th grade 70 chain. The 'made in U.S.A. hooks I bought last summer from the same tractor supply don't do that. I bought the chain there as well.

I somehow think that hooks should be able to rotate freely around the end link in which they're attached. It seems like a safety issue, and I wonder why sale is allow of supposedly standard items that don't work with other standard items. Maybe I've got some 1/4" chain the hooks will work on, but I think I'll just toss them.

 

[TomG]

I use something sold as a '1" clevis' on my draw bar as well. The top plate is off the drawbar to accommodate a backhoe mount, and I don't have any pull implements anyway.

I think the loops on shackles and clevises are different shapes. I believe that shackles are designed so the loop fits around a shaft and the load is attached under the pin. A clevis is designed so the pin fits through a hole, and the load is attached through the loop. The pin on a clevis also has a safety pin (Like the pin on a trailer hitch receiver, which is called a 'whisker pin maybe) rather than the threaded pin on a shackle. Clevises are much easier to put on and off, but each will work. For some reason, I find clevises better with chain and shackles better with cable.

I ended up mounting my seat belts to shackles I put on the fender support shafts. Harv’s pic 'F' things (something else I don't know the name of) fit neatly under the shackle pins and through the seat belt ends. I didn't want to use a case bolt for the mounts, and I figure this arrangement is stronger than holes drilled into the fenders.

 

[TomG]

I've got a pair of 1" cable hooks on about 15' of 1/2 or 7/16th aircraft cable that I use for a choker. A loop through one hook goes around the load, the other hook goes through a loop of chain that runs through the clevis on my drawbar and is secured with a grab hook.

Cable slides through the hooks easily and seldom comes out of the large 1” hooks when taking up the slack. It's also easy to change the length of the line with the grab hook on the cable loop. And, if I need a longer line, there are grab hooks at both ends of the chain. I can make a loop at either end of the chain rather than a single loop, which halves the length of the chain.

I suppose a real cable choker may work better, but the hooks and cable is what I had. I do have a grab hook/slip hook length of chain, but I have an impression that cable chokers work better than chain ones for many types of loads.

 

[TomG]

And when you need an even longer length, there are always those double link things that join two lengths of chain. Or, even faster, is just grab hooking one chain to another.

I don't like carrying stuff much myself. I stick to 20' lengths of 5/16th grade 70. I'd rather join several together the few times I need something longer than lug the longer stuff around. And, untangling the longer stuff isn't a good time. How does chain get knotted anyway? It’s a mystery.

I do have some 3/8th grade 70, but I figure that most times, if I have to worry about breaking 5/16th chain, I should start worrying about breaking the tractor instead.