I am clearing land for a home site. I am removing a bunch of trees (mainly walnut, oak and locust). After clearing the trees and grinding stumps there is a lot of loose roots and sticks and also depressions left over from stump grinding. Would a landscape rake be a good tool for raking all this up and leveling it? I am thinking about a Land Pride LR1672 with gauge wheels behind a TYM 2515H (25 hp). A local dealer priced one at $2250 with the wheel kit. That seems high but if the quality is there maybe not. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Landscape rake for roots, sticks
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buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
Any experience with a landscape rake?
My lot has a lot of small 2-4" rocks that I would like to clear. I was going to try to collect them by hand with a garden rake but it's just to much. I can buy a 48" landscape rake for my BX for $600 but was wondering if it would be the right tool. My rototiller sorted out all the bigger...
www.tractorbynet.com
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
Everything Attachments Landscape Rake, Root Rake
Landscape rake, Root Rake, Rock Rake, York Rake, available in 60', 72', 84', and 96 inch sizes FREE SHIPPING WITHIN 1,000 MILES!
www.everythingattachments.com
EA also has lighter rakes for smaller tractors.
I wasn't looking for an advertisement. They are a dime a dozen.Everything Attachments Landscape Rake, Root Rake
Landscape rake, Root Rake, Rock Rake, York Rake, available in 60', 72', 84', and 96 inch sizes FREE SHIPPING WITHIN 1,000 MILES!www.everythingattachments.com
EA also has lighter rakes for smaller tractors.
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
Pardon me for trying to help you.
I apologize if I was snippy to you. I have already read the thread about rocks. I was wondering about sticks and roots and leveling. Sorry for the perceived slight.
Slowpoke Slim
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That sounds like a lot of money to me for a basic rake. I have a King Kutter rake, 7 foot. I think I paid around $300 for it new 6 years ago (I don't remember the exact price, but it was under $400). I know the prices have gone up on everything the last few years, but over 2 grand? Whew. Not for a basic rake. Not in my book anyway.
You want one wide enough that you can angle it and still cover your tracks. That's why I went with a 7 foot rake on a 6 foot wide tractor.
From the sounds of what you're trying to accomplish, I don't think gauge wheels are going to be needed. Quite the contrary, I think they will be a hindrance for raking through the rough stuff. If you were finish raking a new gravel driveway, or trying to comb the top of a riding arena, then maybe. But not for pulling leftover slash over uneven ground.
If your ground is relatively soft, the rake will help fill in holes. If your ground is hard, the rake will only be able to pull trash off of the top. You may end up needing to use your bucket, or a blade to fill in stump holes.
I bought a landscape rake to help cleanup the aftermath of forestry mulching several acres of land. Probably pretty similar to what you're thinking.
I've found it works really well. I've been able to clean up all the refuse in an area and use it to level/smooth a bit before seeding by hand. I probably have photos of our side yard I could dig up if needed to show before/after.
For more sparse branches I've found that I probably need to remove every other tine (haven't yet -- that's a lot of work on an 84" rake) to make it work better. Branches/roots keep getting tangled up in the tines.
I have a Homestead Implements rake which it looks like is a bit cheaper than LandPride if you haven't looked at them: Landscape Rake Pinnacle Series . Been happy with it so far (also have a land plane and grapple from them and honestly no complaints to date)
I've found it works really well. I've been able to clean up all the refuse in an area and use it to level/smooth a bit before seeding by hand. I probably have photos of our side yard I could dig up if needed to show before/after.
For more sparse branches I've found that I probably need to remove every other tine (haven't yet -- that's a lot of work on an 84" rake) to make it work better. Branches/roots keep getting tangled up in the tines.
I have a Homestead Implements rake which it looks like is a bit cheaper than LandPride if you haven't looked at them: Landscape Rake Pinnacle Series . Been happy with it so far (also have a land plane and grapple from them and honestly no complaints to date)
Thomas
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I've try what you're thinking about doing and it will help lot in clean up,only down fall rake will fill up quickly and you'll have lot piles to clean up,not unless you can pull debris in wind row.
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
it's good. I've been researching landscape rakes myself, but I'm looking for a small one for a small tractor. Same purpose, rake limbs and rocks.
jeff9366
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Now, now. Your are a supplicant for information. Don't be rude.
CH4Ohio
Veteran Member
I wouldn't get one with gauge wheels. Just use your lift to adjust how aggressive it digs in. Rural King sells them. Good used rakes from CL or FB are just as good as new and cheaper. I couldn't believe how high priced they are when I was browsing Rural King the other day.
I have a 6' landscape rake and it does a good job of grabbing everything that's loose. I don't think you'll do your FINAL leveling with it, but it will help get all of that debris out of your way. Especially if you're able to pull it all out and then push it into burn piles or otherwise get it out of your way.
How wide do you need? At least 5' right? Is 6' too wide for that tractor? FYI, I've never had much luck using my rake tilted to the left or right. It doesn't move material sideways like a blade would. Instead rocks and sticks get stuck between tines so I just use it to pull that material out and them "dump" it where I can push it into a pile or scoop it up with the loader. For that reason, I don't think that the "angled" width is all that important, but everyone will have different opinions and experiences with it.
I think $2500 is about 3-4 times what one should cost. Check RK or TSC. Could probably find a used one for $400 - $500 or less.
I have a 6' landscape rake and it does a good job of grabbing everything that's loose. I don't think you'll do your FINAL leveling with it, but it will help get all of that debris out of your way. Especially if you're able to pull it all out and then push it into burn piles or otherwise get it out of your way.
How wide do you need? At least 5' right? Is 6' too wide for that tractor? FYI, I've never had much luck using my rake tilted to the left or right. It doesn't move material sideways like a blade would. Instead rocks and sticks get stuck between tines so I just use it to pull that material out and them "dump" it where I can push it into a pile or scoop it up with the loader. For that reason, I don't think that the "angled" width is all that important, but everyone will have different opinions and experiences with it.
I think $2500 is about 3-4 times what one should cost. Check RK or TSC. Could probably find a used one for $400 - $500 or less.
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WVH1977
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I would start with a box blade. You can level the land and lower the scarifers to pull out roots, sticks etc. and pile up. I am clearing land as well and start with my box blade and then use my pulveriser after that for final touch up before planting grass.
I also have a 7 ft. heavy duty landscape rake that I use for picking up leftover trash. I removed every other tine and it helped a lot for grabbing stuff and leaving the dirt behind. The rake does not level the ground out as well as a box blade.
I also have a 7 ft. heavy duty landscape rake that I use for picking up leftover trash. I removed every other tine and it helped a lot for grabbing stuff and leaving the dirt behind. The rake does not level the ground out as well as a box blade.
JohnnyMX
Gold Member
It will remove sticks and other debris. Sticks can get caught in the tines though so be prepared to get off and clean them out every so often.
Captain Dirty
Platinum Member
Several posters have said that they do not think a landscape rake is a good implement for the task you describe, and I agree with them.
1. Roots still in the ground will probably catch on the rake, setting, bending or distorting some tines so that you get a ragged leveling edge.
2. Loose roots and branches will get stuck between tines, again making the edge ragged and likely gouging soil and grindings into an uneven surface. When you raise the rake to leave a pile, the stuck pieces will likely remain, requiring you to dismount to free them.
A rear blade may catch on roots but hopefully will not bend or distort. Branches may hang up on top of the blade, but the blade is more likely to "self-clear" when raised.
After the initial grading you will have varying depths of easily decomposable grindings and chips that will subside, loose soil that will compact and subside, and various sticks and roots that will tend to "heave". All this means you will have to regrade, and regrade, and regrade until some equilibrium is established.
Your initial post implies that cost is a consideration. In my opinion the most bang for the buck is the heaviest rear blade your tractor and your wallet can handle. Your initial post also states this is a homesite; presumably this will mean finish grading for which a landscape rake with gauge wheels would be appropriate. Some high-quality and obviously more expensive landscape rakes have grading blades and even scarifiers. You will have to be the one to study catalogs and price lists and to decide if such a rake or a combination of implements will be the best choice for you.
1. Roots still in the ground will probably catch on the rake, setting, bending or distorting some tines so that you get a ragged leveling edge.
2. Loose roots and branches will get stuck between tines, again making the edge ragged and likely gouging soil and grindings into an uneven surface. When you raise the rake to leave a pile, the stuck pieces will likely remain, requiring you to dismount to free them.
A rear blade may catch on roots but hopefully will not bend or distort. Branches may hang up on top of the blade, but the blade is more likely to "self-clear" when raised.
After the initial grading you will have varying depths of easily decomposable grindings and chips that will subside, loose soil that will compact and subside, and various sticks and roots that will tend to "heave". All this means you will have to regrade, and regrade, and regrade until some equilibrium is established.
Your initial post implies that cost is a consideration. In my opinion the most bang for the buck is the heaviest rear blade your tractor and your wallet can handle. Your initial post also states this is a homesite; presumably this will mean finish grading for which a landscape rake with gauge wheels would be appropriate. Some high-quality and obviously more expensive landscape rakes have grading blades and even scarifiers. You will have to be the one to study catalogs and price lists and to decide if such a rake or a combination of implements will be the best choice for you.
Dozernut
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I live in the middle of the woods. Leaves are a Hugh problem and pose a fire risk. I put a 6' rake on my little tractor and go to town. I use a leaf blower to clear the trees and close to the house and push all of the litter back into the woods with the tractor and rake. Using the rake really doesn't harm the lawn but it will level out the high parts a little.
I bought my 6' rake at Rural king for around $600. It is holding up real well, is made in the USA and makes it easier for an old geezer to rake his yard.
