Land Pride 6' bushog 2 yrs old pto stalling-troubleshooting ideas?

[RBnGA]

To test the slip clutch They tell you at the start of the season to back the springs off until they spin freely. Then fire up the pto for a few seconds. The brush hog blades should not turn if they do the clutch plates have seized due to corrosion between the semi-metalic friction plates and the steel plates. this process of loosening the springs should help free them up. Same thing can happen on older dry clutch transmissions. Ive seen guys who recommend blocking clutch pedals on these tractors so they don't freeze up.

The fact that you broke a bolt is cause for some concern and would generally indicate that the clutches were not slipping. I missed that before

Yep that is my concern also. This is the second broken bolt. I broke one last year but the system functioned fine after replacing the bolt. This time the shaft came off destroying the plastic safety cover around the u joint and on the pto also. Pics attached...

 

[xring100]

The Fricton plates don't look that worn and with the springs set like they are i don't think that the clutch is slipping i definitely would not want to run with the springs like they are in the second picture for long. when it stalls out have you looked to see if the u joint in front of the clutch also slows down. I assume you've had the drive shaft halves apart and looked to make sure they are both okay two pieces apart since you said the one time it flew apart. If you can see the u joint slow down its somewhere between the clutch and the tractor and not the clutch. if it keeps spinning its either the clutch or something downstream like an internal component to the gear box.

Yep that is my concern also. This is the second broken bolt. I broke one last year but the system functioned fine after replacing the bolt. This time the shaft came off destroying the plastic safety cover around the u joint and on the pto also. Pics attached...

 

[RBnGA]

The Fricton plates don't look that worn and with the springs set like they are i don't think that the clutch is slipping i definitely would not want to run with the springs like they are in the second picture for long. when it stalls out have you looked to see if the u joint in front of the clutch also slows down. I assume you've had the drive shaft halves apart and looked to make sure they are both okay two pieces apart since you said the one time it flew apart. If you can see the u joint slow down its somewhere between the clutch and the tractor and not the clutch. if it keeps spinning its either the clutch or something downstream like an internal component to the gear box.

The springs are now fully compressed since tightening them per my dealers suggestion. Two rounds each fully compressed the springs. I have not taken the drive shaft apart. I will do that tomorrow and inspect the u joints further. Thank you for the info. I will post what I find.
RB

 

[joecdeere]

RB, where are you in GA?

 

[xring100]

The springs are now fully compressed since tightening them per my dealers suggestion. Two rounds each fully compressed the springs. I have not taken the drive shaft apart. I will do that tomorrow and inspect the u joints further. Thank you for the info. I will post what I find.
RB

Good luck curious to see what you find tomorrow.

It look like this is probably a RCR1872 cutter.
Here is the intro section to clutch run in for the future. I know this doesn't help now but might prevent future problems.
"The clutch should be “run-in” prior to initial operation and
after long periods of inactivity to remove any oxidation
that may have accumulated on the friction surfaces.
Repeat “run-in” instructions at the beginning of each
season and when moisture and/or condensation seizes
the inner friction plates"
taken from the following file
http://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/lp/public/manuals/312-849m.pdf here is a link to the manual
page 22 and 23 describe the clutch run in in detail and have a table showing where the springs should be set based on the drive line

 

[RBnGA]

RB, where are you in GA?

Acworth (north of Atlanta) most of the time. Weekends, holidays and vacations at my farm in Washington county near Macon. That is the location of the tractor. Difficult troubleshooting problems from 3 hrs away. I took the drive shaft off and have it with me though.

 

[JimRB]

Page 23 of the manual talks about the proper way to set up a clutch on your cutter. My JD cutter has the same instructions, basically. Cranking the springs as compressed as possible is not the correct way to set up a clutch. They need some slack between the coils otherwise you might as well of bolted washers instead of springs.

RCR1860 826-657C 540 3 1.269" to 1.312"
826-022C 540 3 1.000 to 1.010"
RCR1872 826-656C 540 3 1.269" to 1.312"
826-344C 540 3 1.000 to 1.010"

 

[JimRB]

The bolt to the gearbox is supposed to be a grade 8 bolt with a nylock nut. Torque is 105-120 lb/ft depending on fine or course pitch. I thought but could be wrong but usually when I get grade 8 bolts they are often yellow in color. In any event they are marked with hash marks or number on the bolt. Page 30 of your owners manual. Also see this about bolts. Might be barking up the wrong path if your clutches are slipping. Determining Bolt Grades and Understanding Head Markings

You should be able to look over your shoulder to see where things stopped turning. Of course not now when 3 hours away from the mower.

 

[xring100]

Any luck with your trouble shooting

 

[murphy1244]

The springs are now fully compressed since tightening them per my dealers suggestion. Two rounds each fully compressed the springs. I have not taken the drive shaft apart. I will do that tomorrow and inspect the u joints further. Thank you for the info. I will post what I find.
RB

According to run in instructions your supposed to Loosen the bolts two whole turns. see the top of page 23