L6060 Hard Starting In Cold Weather

[rScotty]

It's not right. Diesels are harder to start in cold weather, but not as hard as you describe.

I'd say on a near new tractor if you are leaving the block heater on all night - and you said it is working - then you aren't having trouble starting a cold engine, you are having trouble starting a warm one.
You also said it cranks fast enough, so about the only thing left is that since the engine is warm the glow plugs may not be coming on. You should check that.
If those things are right, I'd then check that the cylinder compression is within specs for a newish tractor - that will be a spec. in the shop manual.
And if compression is also good and it still starts that hard I'd be inclined to sell it back to the dealer. It's unlikely to get better.
rScotty

 

[LouNY]

If your engine is using a glow plug or manifold heater controller that is looking at engine temperature it will start hard using a block heater.
The glow plugs will not stay on long enough to do their job. If you check the temperature of the head and intake that will still be stone cold.
If the controller see's 50-60 degree water it will not keep the glow plugs on for the required length of time for zero degree head and intake.
Some times you can cycle the switch several times to get the heat or disconnect the temperature sensor to get the heat.

 

[Fxfymn413]

To answer the original question: Yes it sounds normal to me. At least my L4060 behaves in a similar manner on those rare occasions when we have very cold weather. (Close to 0 F and I do not use a block heater)

I'd try manually cycling the glow plugs by letting them come on, turn the ignition switch off briefly, and then back on to re-start the glow plug cycle, then try cranking it.

Kubota uses a pretty low temp to activate the glow plugs so the other responders are probably on to something when they indicate the block heater is causing an issue with the glow plugs.

I don't think it is a fair comparison to match the tractor with your truck. The truck is more likely to have more insulation along with a bigger engine which has aluminum components that will heat up more quickly.

 

[bdhsfz6]

What fuel are you using? Is it winterized diesel? If not, I would mix in some kerosene. It usually isn't ULS though so don't use too much.

I've had two L6060's. One open station and the other with a cab. Both start the same as all the other Kubota's I've owned. I don't get temps much below -20C here and the cranking speed does slow a bit when it does.

I will say the cab does take a long time to heat up. I usually start it and go tend the coal stove for 15 minutes or so.

 

[5030]

My diesel pick up truck (2021 GMC 6.6l Duramax) starts easily, quickly (very little GP cycling) and runs very smoothly after it starts.

If I'm not mistaken, your Duramax has an intake pre heater grid, not glow plugs. A hot of pre-heated intake air always pops them off.

 

[5030]

One of the most neglected items on a tractor (besides the air filter) is the starting battery. In reality, all you can expect far as useful life on a flooded cell battery is about 3 years. Even less if the posts and terminals are corroded. I change mine out every 3 years and I use the largest battery I can fin in the battery tray, in my case a Group 31 and I always buy as much CCA as I can get, in my case again 1200 CCA.

Contrary to popular belief, it's not the cold winter starts that shows a battery's weakness. It's the hot summers that destroy a battery but in the winter, when you really need max amperage to start a cold motor, the weakened over the summer battery cannot deliver the necessary amperage.

 

[Larry D Johnson]

almost new tractor or not this sounds like low compression. I would have the dealer check it.

 

[Hilbilly]

Woke up to -35*C this morning. No way I'm going outside to work on the tractor in these temps and I don't need it for any work today. If it warms up enough I will check the glow plug resistance. Seems like that would be easy enough to do. I can also check to see if they are getting power by checking the feed wire to each. According to the WSM, each wire should provide approximately the same voltage as the battery. The battery is only 2 years old, same as the tractor and it turns the engine over well enough, considering the temps.

I will also check the air filter. I just checked it a few weeks ago and all was fine but I have been moving some light snow that could have easily been sucked in to the air intake.

If it is a low compression issue, it could have been caused by the damn salesman at the dealers. When I picked up the tractor I asked him what a button on the joystick was for and instead of telling me he pushed it and held it. That button was to rev the tractor up, momentarily, when doing heavy work. He revved it to max rpm and the Owners Manual states not to rev the engine beyond 1/2 throttle during the first 50 hours. Dumb a$$. Although, The tractor seems to have lots of power, so maybe no damage was done.

 

[Jchonline]

Ever since I got the L6060 I've noticed it was hard starting in cold weather, even after the block heater has been plugged in all night. Last year I called the dealer and told him of the issue and he said to use a multi meter and test across the plug terminals to see if there was resistance and there was. So this winter the same old problem again. This time I plugged in the block heater and put my finger on the part of the heater that sticks out of the block. It was so hot it almost burnt my fingers. However it is still hard to start. I then took a temperature reading of the engine coolant, using the intellipanel, and it indicated the coolant was 26*C before I started the engine. This morning at -26*C the tractor was hard to start and even stalled after the first attempt. The second attempt was successful but both times the glow plugs were on for a very long time before I started the engine. Then it took forever for the cab heater to start producing heat and it took a very long time before the engine temp gauge moved. The engine runs rough for a while and eventually settles down but this is so different from all the other diesel engines I have owned and still own. They all start very easy after being plugged in and it does not take long for them to produce heat. Something seems wrong with this setup.

Any ideas?

You may want to put some insulating material around the engine cover (front radiator, sides of hood) to help keep that heat in. There is a gentleman on the OTT forums that sells them if you dont want to make your own.

Kubota L3560 and Grand L 60 Series Winter Front Covers Now Available

I was asked to make a set of winter front covers for this person’s Kubota L3560 Limited Edition tractor that he had just taken delivery of. That is one NICE tractor. I believe one plan for it is in his snow removal business, hence the covers. He let it sit in my shop for a week to work up the...

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[crazyal]

I have a block heater and only use it for an hour or less so the temp doesn't get that hot. But it's the block temp, not the radiator or intake manifold. I'm not sure where the temp sensor is but I would guess on the manifold. Either way even after an hour with the block heater on the glow plugs still come on. I would say below 40f and they are needed.

Did you buy it new? I seriously doubt low compression is your problem. I could be wrong but I have seen very old Kubotas with serious blowby problems that start just fine in the dead of winter as long as the glow plugs work. It could be a battery issue. A simple test is to turn on the headlights and try to start it. The lights might dim a little but not much if the battery is good.

I also doubt that all the glow plugs died on a fairly new tractor. That's why I was focusing on the relay. The relays are just off the shelf items made in mass for lots of different applications. It's possible that you just got unlucky. To me it's something common to all of them. A relay is simple but it could be wiring. You wouldn't be the first tractor owner to have a mouse decide it was a nice place to spend the winter and nibble at the wiring. It could be something odd like the computer or one of the systems it checks that's causing it. The biggest problem is, at least on my Kubota, that the relays are behind the dash. For a cabbed tractor it could be a little tricky to get to them.

Is the tractor still under warranty? If so I would hand it off to them. I'm guessing either it's not or getting it to the dealer is an issue.