L5030 T& not so Tilt?

jhbusa · Jan 18, 2005

Got a factory T&T kit with a new L5030 and a box blade. The cylinder side of the 3 pt arm goes about 5 degrees down (below level) at full tilt. When tilting the other direction (lifting the cylinder arm of the 3 pt) it goes almost 40 - 45 degrees at full tilt!? Am I doing something wrong? Is something installed wrong? Or ... is this normal?

Bird · Jan 18, 2005

Jeff, extend the cylinder half way, then adjust the opposite side so it's level. They did put the manually adjustable link on the opposite side from the cylinder didn't they? Then you'll have the same degree of tilt each direction. Of course, if you only want it to tilt one direction, then you can retract the cylinder and adjust the opposite side so it's level and have a drastic tilt to one side.

jhbusa · Jan 19, 2005

Thanks bird. They did not put the manual tilt on the other side! It is the fixed / static version that comes with the tractor. I"ll swap them and give it a shot. Thanks again!

Glenn9643 · Jan 20, 2005

Jeff,

I had a problem with my tilt cylinder leaking down gradually when bushhogging and had a tough time keeping the cutter level. I adjusted my manual link so that my lift arms were level with the tilt cylinder completely retracted. I only have tilt in one direction, but it's a lot easier to know that the implement is level.

_RaT_ · Jan 20, 2005

Thats the way I do it to. I can however use the second hole in either the tilt cylinder or in the solid link on the left hand side to quickly change that. I like that when it's "sucked up" all the way, I'm level. In many hours of mowing, the tilt cylinder may drop a fraction of an inch. I'm so accustom to tapping the center hydraulic valve periodically that controls the tilt. Whether it has dropped any or not, I still tap it. It also lets me get the box scraper in level with respect to the tractor.

jhbusa · Jan 21, 2005

I had time to swap the fixed length arm with the adjustable one on the opposite side of the hydraulics tonight. Didn't have time to try and level or see if I could get the tilt angle roughly the same for both sides. I'll play with it this weekend. Thanks for the help.

DK35vince · Jan 21, 2005

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I had a problem with my tilt cylinder leaking down gradually when bushhogging and had a tough time keeping the cutter level. I adjusted my manual link so that my lift arms were level with the tilt cylinder completely retracted. I only have tilt in one direction, but it's a lot easier to know that the implement is level. )</font>

I have my tilt cylinder set up the same way.
I also was having the same problem with my tilt cylinder leaking down (it was getting real annoying). I replaced my top and tilt cylinders with the ones from CCM with the check valves.
No more leak down since, much better now..

jhbusa · Jan 22, 2005

Leveled great. Now the leak down is nasty. I'll have to fight with the dealer again. These cyls are only 3 - 4 weeks old!

_RaT_ · Jan 22, 2005

If it's the cylinders leaking past the piston o ring, your not going to solve your problem with a check valve arrangement. You may very well be leaking past your valve. A check valve will eliminate tht as a issue. It is more common to have the leakage at the valve(s).

txdon · Jan 23, 2005

This weekend I mowed 10 acres (no flowers finally) and I started with the top and tilt. I was getting it level in the garage and I marked the cylinders to the level mark. By the time I was going to drive out it had dropped 1/4 inch so I took them off and put the original top and side link on. After I was finished mowing I put the top Hydraulic cylinder on to raise the rear (supported) so I could sharpen the blades.

I think I will only use the top and tilt with the box blade. With the box blade I am constantly change the angle and cut of the blade and the I don't notice any leak down.