L4310 Enhancements

/ L4310 Enhancements
  • Thread Starter
#81  
Rich - Oops, sorry, I forgot to reply to your private message! The loader subframe on the L4610 must be different from the L4310 - the wheels I've got now (which should be the same ones you have) work fine. If you need to move them out, my old ones might work for you, though. Are you sure they wouldn't work better if you moved them in?

Mark
 
/ L4310 Enhancements #82  
Mark- just spent 2 hrs. trying diff. things heres the curent plan. A. get some more lugnuts and some treaded rod. B. weld 2 nuts toghter and thead on to stud, extend out 2.5"with the rod and check my clearance [with no weight on the wheel]. C. if this works get spacer plates made or see if the off set on the wheels is right or get other wheels made. I need to move the tires out as far as I can get. Yes we did try and move them in, it got worse. Do you know what the off set on your wheels is, the old ones? and the new ones? Did your come with any gaurd for the valve stem? All I can figeur is the loader frame must be larger than the 4310.??
Rich
PS see other post under L4610
 
/ L4310 Enhancements #83  
Nice photos of your mod. I really like the console. Where is the green zone on the tiltmeters? Sometime post another of the console with a little more light for those of us that need more detail.
 
/ L4310 Enhancements #84  
Mark- looked at your photo [side view] and thats my problum, loader frame is biger than yours is, see pictures do help!! BOY I sure do like those tires/w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif
Rich
 
/ L4310 Enhancements #85  
MChalkley,I agree with every one else.NICE JOB ON THE CONSOLE...I'll have to keep it in mind when I finaly get' me very own trac-tor...I think many of use will probable be following suit...Mark now that you've added all these goody's...What is your total AMP draw...Including the standard equipment plus your new lights etc.
I was just looking at the amp rating on the tc21d and it has a 35A altinator...Unfortunately I guess one need an owners manual to get the total load...for spec equipment...I'm just wondering how close you are to maxing the altinator out...Or were you one of the folks on the old board that was looking to upgrade the altinator to compensate...?I realize you wont have every thing on at once...But I figure those balzer lights are 55w each.Thats what 9+ amps for just the 2 front lights...?I figure on your machine it's not as big a deal as it would be on a TC18,TC21,B2400,BX2200 etc...Just curious....

Lil' Paul

Laziness is the Father of invention.../w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
 
/ L4310 Enhancements #86  
Mark,

Thanks for the info on the bucket. I've seen some pics of the 4 in 1 before and kinda said to my self it's kinda neat. But the more I think about it (now I know it can prune) it is on my want list. I'll have to do some searching to see if it will fit on a NH. Great stuff mark!!!!

Rowski

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Rowski on 7/26/00 06:13 AM.</FONT></P>
 
/ L4310 Enhancements
  • Thread Starter
#87  
Here's a little better view of the console. Clearly (pardon the pun), I've reached the limits of the resolution of my friend's cameral. Either that, or I haven't learned to extract all the performance it's got (not usually a fault I'm known for - rather the other way around). I'm going to have to break out the F5 and try some negative scans to see what that does, if anyone needs more detail than this.

Mark
 
/ L4310 Enhancements
  • Thread Starter
#88  
Another side view, this time showing the rear blade. You can sort of see the gauge wheel and the red cylinder that controls it.

Mark
 
/ L4310 Enhancements #89  
The console looks great. Yourtractor looks like a very capable machine.
 
/ L4310 Enhancements
  • Thread Starter
#90  
A picture of the canopy frame tube to the left of the console where the fuse block and ground bar are. The lower "conduit" contains a 6-gauge white wire for ground that terminates in the ground bar on the left (all they had was house wiring colors and the guy accidentally gave me 6-gauge instead of the 8 I asked for), and an 8-gauge red wire for power that terminates in the fuse block on the right. I realize that the ground bar is 95% overkill, but before you guys harass me about it, remember that the ground has to carry just as much amperage as the hot, and the vast majority of electrical problems are caused by poor grounds. That said, again, I realize that it's overkill, but I'm obsessive sometimes (well, ok, you caught me, I'm actually that way most of time). There's a ground going from the ground distribution bar to a lug in the console, and to a pigtail for the toggle switch lights, temp gauge and it's light, tiltmeter electronics (not installed yet), etc.

The 4 white wires you see coming out of the top "conduit" are the temp sensor wires (three sensors plus a spare for when one of the others breaks or some idiot decides to put a fourth sensor on my tractor /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif).

Mark
 
/ L4310 Enhancements
  • Thread Starter
#91  
Lastly (for this iteration), another rear view. From this angle you see the tires, more tires, and, oh yeah, tires.

Mark
 
/ L4310 Enhancements
  • Thread Starter
#92  
Oops, forgot one: The 4-in-1 bucket, with toothbar (you can slso see the bolts that hold it on) and pallet fork hooks.

Mark
 
/ L4310 Enhancements
  • Thread Starter
#93  
Lil' Paul - I have a 40A alternator. My total amperage draw with everything on, including the motion alarm, would be just under 38 amps, so that still leaves me 2 amps for the accessory outlet. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Mark
 
/ L4310 Enhancements
  • Thread Starter
#94  
Wen - As you may be able to tell from the more recent picture of the console, the yellow zone on the tiltmeter starts at 20 degrees, and the red zone starts at 25. The electronic version has fully adjustable switches so you can set the beeper for any degree of slope you want.

By the way, if you want to see a really sharp picture of the tiltmeter, go to http://www.tiltmeter.com/7489.html.

Mark
 
/ L4310 Enhancements
  • Thread Starter
#95  
Rowski - I'd say the 4-in-1 bucket is definitely on my must-have list. It's an incredible tool. You can also use the heel for a depth gauge for cutting when back-dragging, or the toe for the same purpose (to a more limited extent) when pushing. Or, open it up and push brush a while, then when you've got a load, just clamp it with the jaws, pick it up, and take it to where you want to dump it. And on, and on.

Last month, I was working on a project and a guy was trying to get a T-Post out of the ground that had been put in concrete (and no, I don't know why, either). He wasn't working for me, but I felt sorry for him, he was having so much trouble, so I rode over to pull it with the 4-in-1. (He offered no resistance to the plan whatsoever.) Anyway, I clamped it lightly and lifted, and it just slipped. Second attempt, same result. Third time, I really crunched it - actually "cut it" would be a better way of putting it, because I only came away with the top 3/4 of it. So, for the fourth time, I was very careful to put just enough to crimp it slightly and I got the whole works up that time.

There's also a very clever trick you can use if you've got teeth and the object is a little bit flexible. It's easier to do with a backhoe, and it's easier to do than it is to explain, but the idea is to thread the object (sapling, rod, conduit, whatever) over one tooth and under another. The easiest way I've found to do it is to pull up to it, push down on it with the bucket as you back away from it, then, when the bend appears in front of the bucket, lower the bucket enough more to get one or two teeth under it, pull back forward until the tooth is in the bend, then lift it out of the ground. If you've got a tooth bar, but don't have a 4-in-1 bucket, this is a surprisingly easy way to pull saplings. Impresses the toughest client, too, when it works. When it doesn't, just tell him you were trying to break it off so you could see what was on the other side of it. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Mark
 
/ L4310 Enhancements #96  
Am I the only one that couldn't pull up Marks photo of the fuse box?
JerryG
 
/ L4310 Enhancements #98  
Mark,

Tractoring is so addictive and costly. I wish you would have told me the 4 in 1 is junk and don't get one /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif. Now I will have to get one /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif. Is Long the only one to consider. What is the approx cost if I keep my loader frame. I will search this site and the old one for info.

Nice new pics. Those tires are big. Would a radial tire also give better traction in the cold (northern cold). You must be able to get a lot of work done in an hour with all the hydraulics adjustments in the rear and the 4 in 1.

I got my thumb yesterday. Took 2 day shipping from FL to VT. Not bad. I wish I could get my dealer parts (for car repairs) that quick. Should be welding it on the next rainy day. Thanks again

Rowski
 
/ L4310 Enhancements
  • Thread Starter
#99  
Rowski - Well, I could tell you the 4-in-1 is junk, but somebody else here would correct me and I'd lose what little credibility I've got.

The traction advantages of radials would be at least as great in extreme cold, and probably greater. They may not give as good traction as they would in warm conditions, but much better than bias would in the same conditions, which is the issue, of course. The much greater flexibility of the radial will allow it to conform to the surface a lot better and this advantage improves as the stiffness of the tires you're comparing it against increases - the stiffness of bias ply tires increases a lot more in cold weather than the stiffness of radials.

The hydraulics make a big difference in the time it takes to do a job and in how nice a job you can do. You're just not going to adjust the tilt of a blade very often if you have to stop the tractor and get off every time. Besides much of the advantage you'd gain from a fine adjustment is lost to the action of stopping and disrupting the work in progress. But the tires have made at least as much difference in the amount of work performed in a given amount of time and the quality of the job. Every time you spin the tires, when you're grading, you just made more work for yourself.

And then there's the issue of HST. But, these days, I've stopped advocating HST. I'm letting Gordon and Rich handle that end of the business. I guess I should let Rich handle tire advocacy, too. Then, I could almost retire. That would only leave me with cylinders and synthetics. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Let me know how you like the thumb. (You're welcome! Glad to be able to help you spend money. Just wish I was selling all this stuff. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif)

Mark
 
/ L4310 Enhancements #100  
Mark,

It's always easier and fun to spend other people's money, at least for me. I'm going to search the site and net for the 4 in 1. My wife just brought me my second epresso tonite /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif, good time to search!

Rowski
 

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