L4150 Leak located.

[NJDonzi]

Ok....pulled the propeller shaft cover off today to locate the leak. As I said before this was fixed at one time in the past and the leak returned. This is the only issue the original owner ever had. So this is what I found. The seal is bad on the transmission side of the shaft. Its a good size leak also.

This is what I think has happened. When I dropped the cover a TON of water spilled all over. I bet it was a good 12 onces! The cover was holding that much water because the ends were clogged with a build up of dirt dust etc. So I think this made the water just lay in the cover. Being that the old owner never really used this machine much at all the water rusted the smaller shaft the comes through the seal. When this built up with rust and the machine was used it just tore the seal up enough to cause the leak. Or the person the fixed it the first time didnt clean the rust off the shaft and it ruined the seal quickly.

Sounds crazy but I think thats what happend to this area twice. So...once I replace the seal and maybe the smaller shaft my plan is to drill a few holes in the cover as to not cause this again. This way the water has a place to go and not sit against the seal area. And trust me...the repair will be alot cleaner then the mess you see that some hack has done.

Here are some pictures...the front seal is dry as a bone.

Thoughts?

 

[5030]

Who ever did the original repair was into blue glue big time.

I stay away from anerobic sealants as much as possible when gaskets are available. Anerobic sealants have a nasty habit of getting where they don't belong and causing grief.....

.......I have to ask why the underside is blue but the front pivots are the right blue-grey color?

 

[NJDonzi]

I hear ya on the blue stuff...It can really cause problems.

The different color is just the shadow and the flash...its all the same color. Its all blue gray...:thumbsup:

 

[5030]

I have the same/similar covered front propeller shafts on my M9 and 105, however, I don't see how water could get in there unless you submerged it and that would be difficult considering the height. I'd compromise the outbaord planetaries before I could get the housing in the water, not that I operate in water.

 

[NJDonzi]

The machine sat outside. When it would rain it would run down the top of the trans and make its way to the cover. When I washed the machine to clean it up you can see how the water would make its way down to he cover.

 

[rbargeron]

Good detective work Scott. After the transmission is drained I believe that 4-bolt block will just come straight down. There's enough flexibility in everything to slide the block assembly out of the first coupling after lowering it. The shaft (part number 32580-44270) is around $56, seal is 09503-25211 and only $5. Ronnie Bowman at Tractorsmart.com is helpful and quick. (Messick's is great too). Might want to have the parts in hand before you take it apart. In the meantime, the leak could be reduced by winding a good amount of cotton string around the shaft against the face of the seal, making a packing. Lots of ways to improvise that so you can run with less leakage until ready to do the job.

 

[NJDonzi]

Thanks for the part numbers and the contact. I plan on taking the rest apart tonight and see exactly what I need. I want to make sure I get everything that might even look questionable and since someone else has had their hands in this part once before you never know. Not a big deal on the down time. I really dont have anything to do with the machine right now.

Great idea on the cotton string!

I will post pictures if anyone wants to see the rest of the mess...

 

[NJDonzi]

Well its all apart. Shaft has a sleeve on it that was shot. I tapped the sleeve off with a small drift and a hammer. Came right off. Will order new seal and sleeve in the morning and should be good to go.

I have to say...Kabota really thought things out when they build these....Very impressed.:thumbsup:

 

[rbargeron]

Does the sleeve have some sealant between it and the shaft? Might be good to use some.

You mentioned the tractor may have sat unused for long periods. That, and generally rusty conditions in there got me thinking maybe besides rain one of the sources of water is condensation inside the transmission. Any water would go to that low-point location. Besides drain holes in the shaft cover it might be good to check the dipstick and fill cap seals too.

Do you think the prior owner bailed because he got sick of dealing with the leak? If so tell your financial manager your tractor repair time is helping the general fund by about $1000 an hour. She should be proud.

 

[NJDonzi]

Dick,
The sleeve on the shaft has some sort of soft plastic that seals it to the shaft. The shaft is in great condition. The gear housing has some pits where the seal goes. It wasnt leaking there at all. I plan on cleaning that area up and using a small amount of black aircraft sealent between the seal and the housing.

Since this is the lowest point on the on the tractors transmision I did expect some water when I removed the drain. There was none at all...100% clean. Not even dirt or anything that would indicate any wear.

I checked all the other fluids and they are perfect. I do need to change the engine oil. Date and hours were on the filter. 6/11/2010 and 1245 hours. It was done over a year ago and there is 1283 hours on it now. So I guess he might have been tired of the leak and adding fluid all the time so he let it sit.

Parts should be here this week. I also will replacing one of the two brass inserts that threaded into the transmision. I have no idea what it does but one looked kind of beat.

Hey... $48.00 in parts and some labor...Cheap fix! The trans fluid is going to cost me more

 

[NJDonzi]

All fixed!

 

[rbargeron]

Cool beans.

Did you keep your L345? I had one years ago and upgraded to a L4150. Years later I traded up again for an L5450/Bradco and sold the L4150. I missed the convenient size of the L345 so I got another one and added a LA450 loader.

I saw in a post from last year you were looking for a manual for the L345? I never did locate one other than an Intertec reprint. The L355SS is the same tractor and eBay has WSM's for them now and then.

On your L4150 did you know there's a 3-postion orifice valve that controls the shifting of the shuttle? It can be set for cold, normal or hot climates. It's inside the cowl under the panel. (need a reach rod with a loop on the end). Take care, Dick B

 

[NJDonzi]

Dick,
I ended up selling my L345. It needed some TLC and I just wanted something in better condition. So when I sold it back in June I have been looking for another since then. Thats when I found this L4150. It really a very nice machine and I cant wait to use it more.

I have read your posts on the valve adjustment. Great thing to know. What I did find interesting is that when you use the shuttle from Forward to Reverse or visa versa without depressing the clutch it will start out slow and then it seems like it will shift into the gear you have selected. I guess this is a saftey feature as to not break something. If you use the clutch this dosnt happen. Does that make sence?

 

[rbargeron]

I may not be understanding your post exactly but here are some ideas:

The L4150's hydraulic shuttle is really two additional clutch packs, one for each direction. They are completely independent of the foot clutch. I think you'll find that the foot clutch plays no part in how quickly the shuttle engages.

The delay between shuttle lever motion and engagement is affected by how you move the lever. If you move it fast from forward to reverse, the hydraulic pressure doesn't have time to drop so it engages the opposite clutch stack quickly. If you move the shuttle lever in two steps, first to neutral and then to forward or reverse, the brief stop in neutral allows the line pressure to drop. It then builds again when a direction is selected. On my L4150 if I batted the shuttle from forward to reverse in one motion, the shift was quite abrupt. If I stopped even for half a second in neutral the shift was more gradual. If when doing this your rig seems to engage too slowly, you could try adjusting the orifice valve. It has 3 positions. Have fun Dick B

 

[NJDonzi]

Dick,
Yes...it acts just like you posted. So no worries. I'm just not use o the shuttle shift.:thumbsup: