L3940 - Order Spec - Tell me what I'm missing

[TripleR]

@TripleR: I hadn't thought to ask about hooks. I will now. Thanks.

@Chilly: Re: hydraulics. I'm on the fence--my budget is already ballooned. I'm looking at LP blades (dealer carries and can wrap into financing) and I believe a number of them have an add on kit I could add. I'll look at the cost.

I didn't like the ones or location my dealer put on our M8540, so I took the hooks I wanted on our L5740 and a picture of where I wanted them.

 

[Maibox]

@TripleR--as I hadn't even thought about it, I'm not sure I'd have a good idea of what I'd want and where I'd want them. What's your recommendation? Thanks.

 

[TripleR]

@TripleR--as I hadn't even thought about it, I'm not sure I'd have a good idea of what I'd want and where I'd want them. What's your recommendation? Thanks.

I used a pattern from another member, PHILIP8N. Here is the thread with the source for hooks with pictures. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...228972-installing-hooks-front-end-loader.html

 

[PHILIP8N]

I used a pattern from another member, PHILIP8N. Here is the thread with the source for hooks with pictures. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...228972-installing-hooks-front-end-loader.html

May seem a little overkill, but I have used each one for one thing or another. The extra positions makes it nice to balance out loads sometimes. Like trying to get a 6' 1000 pound box blade out of the bed of my truck, glad no one was watching me do that! Philip.

 

[Maibox]

Dealer quoted me about $165 less for a Dirt Dog 3507 vs. the LP RB1584. DD is 340 lbs vs. 289 for LP. DD has 5 forward, 3 reverse settings vs 7/5 for LP. Adjustment angles are DD 30 front/rear and LP front 45 rear 30. Is the LP worth the extra $165?

 

[Chilly807]

I'm not familiar with the Dirt Dog 35 series blades, the Land Pride 15 series is fairly light duty. I've had no problems with mine, which is an RB1572, but they're not a heavy duty blade. The LP 15 series has a 1/4 inch moldboard, DD doesn't say how thick theirs is. Mine is light enough that it chatters if you're trying to grade a rocky driveway. I got it primarily for snow removal, and it's fine for that or moving loose material or gravel. The Dirt Dog 50 series blade might be a better fit for the 3940 if you're going to be doing any heavy work with it. They say it's rated for a 50 HP 2wd tractor, or a 40 HP 4wd tractor. No option for hydraulic angle, so you'd have to build your own which isn't hard if you can weld and fit steel.

The LP 26 series blades look pretty good to me, 5/16 moldboard and an option for hydraulic angle. I have no idea what the price is like, LP is usually expensive but well made.

We're pretty good at spending your money! When we got our L3400 a few years back I was watching the bottom line pretty closely too. I wish I'd gotten the QD bucket, other than that it turned out ok.

Sean

 

[azbinder]

LP has an RB1672 blade with hydraulic angle available as an option. For a cutter, I would suggest an RCR1872 with laminated tail wheel and both front and rear chain guards in lieu fo rubber.
And yes, all Landpride implements can be rolled into the Kubota "0 for 60" finance package.

 

[Maibox]

Really only need the blade for snow so I'm not sure how heavy-duty I need. I don't like not being able to add the hydraulics to the blade. The 1684 is a bit heavier so maybe that. 2684 looks great but might be overkill (it's about $250-300 more than the 1584).

Also, I was on Land Pride's site and it looks like the RC1872 isn't listed and may have been replaced by the RC2072. Anyone know how it changed?

@Chilly--the budget is certainly taking a beating but now is the time to get some of these implements. Plus if I get them all now I won't have anything to obsessively research. I think the biggest problem is I don't believe I have enough room in my barn for everything now as I've got the 66 'Stang in there. Looks like I'll need to move the pole shed project up the priority list .

 

[94BULLITT]

It sounds like a good setup to me. There are many threads on here debate what size and type of grapple is the best for a compact tractor, I guess it somewhat comes down to operator preference. It is going to take a good rear blade to hold that tractor. I have a woods HBL84, I found it used and I would not want any less of a blade for my L4240. Since you are looking at Land Pride I would go with a RB3684 or a RB3584

 

[Chilly807]

I don't think they made an 18 series blade, I thought that too for a bit. It goes from the 15 series to the 16, which is new I think. I haven't bent my 15 series yet with the L3400, not that it wouldn't if I hooked something hard while traveling fast. In slow going it simply spins, ice chains and all. You have more HP and a lot more weight, which is why I'd consider the 26 series blades. Adding hydraulics to any blade is a matter of some steel and some welding. I think the cylinder cost me around $100 plus two hoses and some QC ends for them. Say $150 plus some steel for the brackets. One thing I DID learn the hard way is to get the right size cylinder the 1st time, and be sure it's "engineered" right. I'd recommend going no smaller than a 3" bore cylinder, the blade can have a lot of leverage if you hook something solid. When/if you do, it turns the cylinder into a pump and can over-pressurize your hoses. Larger piston = less pressure on the hoses. There ARE crossover relief valves if you want to add them, I didn't get that fancy.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/192127-cylinder-travel-limiter.html

Here's the thread on the re-build phase of my hydraulic angle saga. I got it right the second time around, no problems since. Yes, I AM knocking wood in the background.. if you add the hydraulics yourself, you need to be sure fully retracted = full angle in one direction and fully extended = full angle in the opposite direction. I bent the first cylinder over-extending it. It's easier than it sounds, just takes some thought and measuring. One potential problem is that with the cylinder mount above the blade I don't have power angle with the blade swung around to face backward. Not an issue for me, I don't plow that way anyway.

I don't worry too much about inside storage anymore. Paint is cheaper than buildings, my gear gets touched up in the fall before the snow hits. My harrows, rotary cutter, post hole digger and 2-bottom plow live outdoors. The tractor and logging winch live in a heated garage. I had concerns about the clutch rusting on the winch, plus it's a pig to store safely unless you have a concrete pad to sit it on. I may eventually build a lean-to for the rest of the gear, but after building a house and horse barn in the last 4 years I'm about done driving nails for a while.

Sean

 

[Maibox]

Re: the 18 series was a rotary cutter--1872. I think it's been replaced by the 2072.

Regarding adding hydraulics, if it's not set up to add them without welding, it's not happening (unless I paid someone to do the welding) as I have no equipment and more importantly, no skill... My barn is heated and I have a lean-to off the back but right now the old Farmall H and pull behind cutter is on one side and a 10 foot trailer is on the other. I really want the storage building for my cars but it would also be a nice tractor/implement home. Right now, to get the Mustang out, I have to put out ramps and then drive through the pasture to the gate. Not convenient. Doesn't matter right now as the car really isn't too road worthy, but I'm hoping to rectify that in the next year or so.

 

[Chilly807]

I hear you about the welding.. I wasn't much of a welder either until I met a farm girl.. now I'm thinking of getting a plasma cutter to go with the stick and MIG.. oh wretched excess !!

Sean

 

[houstonscott]

See if you can negotiate the 50hr service as part of the out the door price?

HS

 

[DEK]

If you're getting the back blade mainly for snow removal, I think you would be better served with the earlier suggestion about finding a snow plow blade from a pickup truck. There are used plow blades out there and it wouldn't be too difficult for a fabrication shop to mount it on a QA plate. The QA plates are available for $100-200 or a good machine shop can make one. I have a friend who is a welder and works at a machine shop, and he had the plate made ($65 his cost). I bought an older plow ($100) that was used on a pickup truck, manual turn (I don't have extra hydraulic valve), and he did the welding to attach it to the QA plate. The nice thing about the front blade for snow is you're plowing the snow before it gets compacted by your tires, and you can plow deeper snow and pile it higher. If you get the extra hydraulic valve, you can look for a plow with power angle. Just a thought.

I would definitely have the block heater added. The tractor will start in cold weather without it, but it makes it easier and it is not an expensive add-on. They should be able to do that for no extra charge, and also I would try to negotiate in the first 50 hr service.

You've picked a great tractor and will enjoy it.

 

[Maibox]

@DEK--thanks for chiming in. I will look look into your suggestion on the blade. I am getting the 3rd function (plus two rear remotes). I may still need the back blade so I'll likely still get one. Tractor will be stored in heated barn (kept at 50 degrees). If I buy local, I'll try to negotiate the 50 hour service. I'm definitely looking forward to getting it.

 

[DEK]

I'm envious of having a 50 degree barn to store my tractor. I thought the block heater would be a good add-on should you ever need it because it is inexpensive $60-70 + installation.

Another add-on you might consider is a light package installed on the ROPS. The lights that are on the tractor are okay, but they are somewhat ineffective when using the FEL. And especially rear work lights are handy. I've been reading a lot about how bright LED lights are and they don't demand much amperage. Along the line of amperage, check in to an alternator upgrade. The extra potential might be nice now or later.

I think I would try and get whatever I could now because you'll get the best price when it is tied to the sale of the tractor. Anyhow, a few more things to think about.

 

[Maibox]

Thanks DEK.

 

[Maibox]

Back to the grapple. The WR Long 48 has one grapple/cylinder. 56 has 2 grapple/cylinders and is $300 more. Any advantages to having two vs. one grapple/cylinder?

Here's the current spec with price:
L3940, R4's filled with water/methanol, QA FEL, MPTO, WR Long Front Hydraulics, 2 rear remotes (one reg, one float) (~$28,000), WR Long OBG56 (~$1,700), LP RC 1872 (~$1,950), LP RB1684 (~$800)--$32,400 (subtract $300 if go with 48" grapple). Includes $750 rebate and 0% financing for 60 months. Thoughts?

 

[Maibox]

Back to the grapple. The WR Long 48 has one grapple/cylinder. 56 has 2 grapple/cylinders and is $300 more. Any advantages to having two vs. one grapple/cylinder?

Here's the current spec with price:
L3940, R4's filled with water/methanol, QA FEL, MPTO, WR Long Front Hydraulics, 2 rear remotes (one reg, one float) (~$28,000), WR Long OBG56 (~$1,700), LP RC 1872 (~$1,950), LP RB1684 (~$800)--$32,400 (subtract $300 if go with 48" grapple). Includes $750 rebate and 0% financing for 60 months. Thoughts?

 

[Chilly807]

I think I'm glad mine is bought and paid for... Seriously, the prices sound about right for today, I paid a little less for the RC, but mine is an 1860 too. It's too bad you can't find a decent rear blade used, not much ever goes wrong with them except bends. The trouble is, you'll need it soon if not now, if you had the summer to shop for a used one it'd be cheaper. I think mine was about $400, and I paid too much for it anyway.

Think you can beat them into including a block heater and some tire chains? Even if you never use the heater, it's there and is a selling feature if you decide to move the tractor in the future.

Sean