Buying Advice L3800 or MX4700 or MX5100?

[Verticaltrx]

So, I'm so confused with all these numbers, physical size differences, etc. Where does the L3540 fall into the physical size and hp wise compared to the L3800 and MX5100?

A jerky 3PH doesn't sound great, that's for sure. I prefer saving money where I can, but obviously want something to get the job done too. The B series tractors look like a toy to me.

Chris

The L3240 and L3540 are bigger and much heavier than the L3800, but smaller than the MX5100.

As for the B-series, side by side the large frame B-series are very close in size to the L3200/L3800. (large frame = B3200/B3300, B3030, small frame = B2320-2920) Loader capacity is very similar, the L3200/L3800 lift only 66lbs more than the B's and actually have less breakout force. They do lift about a foot higher though.

I use my B3200 for my small construction and fencing business almost daily, as well as helping out on our 200ac farm. It works well for everything from light grading/excavating, material handling, and fence building on the job site to mowing/tedding/raking hay, loading manure, and hauling in firewood on the farm. I don't take offense to you thinking the B's are toy like, it definitely is when I park my B3200 next to our M9540, but they are also extremely capable. Nonetheless, if you want a larger tractor go ahead and get exactly what you want. You'll never be completely satisfied if you don't.

 

[ravencr]

Great info in the last couple of posts. I need to read them again before responding, which will likely be tomorrow. It's got me thinking about the L4400 though, for sure. No disrespect of the B series tractors Vertical, just seem small in size, but apparently big on performance from what you're saying. Lots to think about...why do they make it so complicated?

Chris

 

[bilrus61]

I've maintained 400 yards of gravel road for 14 years by just using my bucket to back drag it and level it. I went from a L4200 to a L5040 last year and wow! I can haul twice the ammount of gravel with the new L5040. The roll back angle is very important if your doing gravel with a loader. The bucket roll back angle is (memory here) 40 degrees on the L5040 and was 23 degrees on the L4200. This made getting a bucketfull with the L4200 very hard to do. With the L5040 I can litterally have the gravel mounded up in the bucket.

I just roll the bucket back after dumping the gravel and then lower it and put some pressure on the ground with it. Then just drive slowly backwards. Looks like frosting when I'm done. Not had the grader blade on in 13 years. I would guess your buying your gravel from a quarry and will have it dumped in a pile then spread it. I dig mine from a gravel bar by the creek. Even with it in a pile the rollback angle on your bucket will be important. You will need LOTS of gravel if your making new roads. When winter hits with freezing and thawing it just sinks away and leaves mud on top. A larger size gravel is best as a base when your making a new road, use it as the base.

When I'm making a new road I just start laying gravel over the grass. Works great. No need to make a cut.

I really love the extendable links on the L5040. Makes hooking up a breeze. The entire three point hitch design on the '40 series of tractors is very easy to use.

Look into the '40 series of Kubota tractors. The ones with the larger 72" bucket with the greater rollback angle are gravel spreading mosheeens.

 

[ravencr]

5040...geez, so many options out there. But, these are great things to consider. Where does it fall in line with the other tractors mentioned size and capacity wise?

Chris

 

[crazyal]

Having too many choices is better than just having one or two. :laughing: Unless you are going to be operating the tractor in tight places I don't see much of a disadvantage of going to a larger tractor.

The GL series tractors are real nice. They have extra weight that will help to do things like road work. If you get the HST they come with a 3 gear range transmission and a shift on the fly high low range that works in all three gears. The standard L tractors will do everything you need to, they are more of an economy tractor so you can save some money. If it's going to be you doing the work ask yourself if you are a no fills type of person or are you the type of person who enjoys the extra features.

The larger MX or even an M5040 are also nice tractors that would work just fine. They (and probably the GL series) could be used if needed to move a trailer or two if needed. They would have no problem with any road work you would want to do.

If maintaining roads will be one of the main uses I would suggest you look into a grading scraper like this one from Land Pride (other brands are also on the market).

 

[ravencr]

Yeah, this is getting ridiculous...lol. I didn't even realize all these options existed.

Chris

 

[k0ua]

5040...geez, so many options out there. But, these are great things to consider. Where does it fall in line with the other tractors mentioned size and capacity wise?

Chris

Generally the first 2 numbers are pretty close to horsepower. Not exact but bigger number , more horsepower . the loader numbers are approximately the lift ability of the loader in kilograms. (2.2 lbs per kilogram) my tractor is a L3400HST the horspower is 35.7 the loader is an LA463 so 463 kilograms so about 1018 lbs. of lift ability. the weights of the tractors generally get bigger with higher horsepower but some series of tractors weight more even with lower horsepower. Grand L's weigh more than stand L's. I think the L3800 will do everything you want to do, and I am another one who has maintained my gravel drive gravel areas with just backdragging the bucket. But one of those graders sure look sweet. Look at what it can do.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/212814-angle-grader-blade.html

James K0UA

 

[ravencr]

Yeah, that would work great for working our existing pads. I will consider that, especially given that those pics were without adding any gravel. That would be very helpful for our sites and roads.

Chris

 

[bilrus61]

Usually the discount is from 10 to 15% <~~~max from the prices on the Kubota web site. My L5040 has the exact same engine as the MX5100. 44 PTO horsepower. Remember, the last guy in the US to trade in a tractor because it had too much horsepower was Fred Jenkins of Lima Ohio back in 1978.

My dad used to use a grader blade and left a washboard effect. He turned it around and drug it reversed and that worked ok. But a blade/box just moves around the gravel that is on top. If it has sunk into the soil or washed away your just moving dirt/mud.

My tractor is the GST.......glide shift transmisson. It is like a power shift. No clutching just push the lever to go up a gear or down. VERY easy to use if your new to tractors. No whine from the hydros with it. Check out the Kubota website. Go to a local kubota dealer and get the flyers and read up on the models. One will grab you and you can go from there. One note, the dealer will want to sell you one that he has on the lot. Around here that means the economy line of Kubotas. Decide on what you want and he can order it. On the cost factor. Tractors arn't like cars or TVs. They hold their value well......sometimes extreamly well. So a bit more up front is going to be there at the back if/when you ever trade or sell it. More or less. The Dollar fell to below 80 yen today. The Kubotas/Deeres/NewHollands arn't going to be cheaper next couple of years. Good time to get one now I think. before the recent decline of the dollar shows up at the dealer.

 

[StanR]

You can almsot never go wrong by buying a little bigger than you think you need. I made that mistake .. Bought a 28HP compact and replaced it within the first year with a MX5100. I really like that new tractor tractor. I larger tractor in most cases is more smoother riding and comfortable to sit and work in.