L-39 SKID PLATE & PUSH BAR UPGRADE

[WALT]

TBN'ers:

After close to a year of owning my L-39, I finally got the time to make a skid plate for it. It is similar to the skidplate I made for my BX 2200, with the exception that the L-39 skidplate attaches by homemade "U" bolts to the loader frame. The BX 2200 skidplate attaches to the midmount mower frame. If you do a search, you can find that project.

The skid plate is made of 3/16" steel plate that I got from the dump for $5.00. It's purpose is to stop the snap-up branches & trees when operating in wooded areas.

I also welded 1/8" perforated steel plate to the front push bar,
again to protect the tractor nose from branches/sticks etc.

I'll be posting photos of this project to follow this post.

WALT

 

[WALT]

Photo #2

Home made "U" bolts, made from 1/4" flat bar stock & 1/2" threaded rod.

 

[WALT]

Photo #3

Skid plate on ground prior to mounting.

 

[WALT]

Photo #4

Side view of skid plate.

 

[WALT]

Photo #5

Perforated steel, welded to front push bar.
Note that TSC brand "Kubota Orange" does not match the present Kubota orange. It is more yellow tinted. Oops.... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[WALT]

Photo #6

"U" Bolt on the front loader frame.

 

[WALT]

Photo #7

Left side front loader frame

 

[WALT]

Photo #8

Push bar remounted back on tractor.

 

[WALT]

Photo #9

Skid plate mounted on tractor, front attachment to push bar.

 

[WALT]

Photo #10

Rear view looking to front of tractor

 

[JerryG]

Walt,
You did a fine job on designing and building the skid plate. It should give you some piece of mind when your out in the sticks. Can you get to the service locations with it on? Your right TSC needs to look into getting some paint that matches a little closer.

 

[JimMorrissey]

Nice job Walt. I like it. Maybe I'll copy it /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Some day when I have some "spare time".

 

[WALT]

Jerry:

The skid plate will need to be removed to change the hydraulic oil & filters.
The engine has two (2) outward facing oil drain plugs, one on each side. The oil draining should clear the front part of the skid plate, but I'll let you know in about 85 L-39 hours. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I didn't rush in to this job, as there are not many fragile parts exposed on an L-39, unlike my BX 2200. Designing & engineering how to attach it to the tractor took awhile. The solution was to make custom "U" bolts to fit over the rear frame x-member and the front loader frame, inside the main frame rails.

I will attempt to scan my work drawing to post here with my dimensions.

WALT

 

[JerryG]

I have always been lucky with the ones that I have done. I have never had to use U-bolts. The tractors have always plenty of bolt holes to bolt the skid plate to. I need to put one on the tractor that I have now. I will have to build one kind of like yours with U-bolts. Thanks again for posting your pictures, I have added them to my photos so that I can look at them when I do mine.

 

[slowzuki]

Are you gonna get some shorter front U-bolts so you can dump the stacked washers? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Thought we wouldn't notice with the shackles hanging down hehe.

 

[MarkV]

Well done Walt. You can run on down here and do mine any time you want.

MarkV

 

[WALT]

If you are refering to photo #9, I'll explain. My photo skills are less than my fabrication skills.

Because the front axle is the only moving part protected by the skid plate, I used 1/2" x 5" Grade 8 bolts from the push bar mount point. Between the skid plate & the bottom nuts are 4" springs, which will allow the front part of the skid plate to move downward when contacted by the front axle, then push back up when the axle is level.
Time will tell if I have over or under engineered this design.

WALT