Kubota front loader cylinders

toyotadriver · Jan 28, 2013

I have a Kubota L2350DT with front end loader (I can't remember what the model of the loader is but I bet someone here does know). Anyway, one of the cylinders is slowly leaking. I think another cylinder may also be leaking as well. I'd like to replace all 4 of them. Or rebuild them. They appear to be welded so I don't know if they can even be rebuilt.

So, rebuild or replace?

If replace, where should I look for new ones?

Thanks in advance!!

DT86 · Jan 28, 2013

I'm sure they can be repaired.

Either way check the yellow pages if you're a old school kind of guy or the web for hydraulic repair shops near by.

speedyspider2050 · Jan 28, 2013

They are rebuildable. The cylinder part of the ram can be unscrewed and it releases the ram for disassembley and seal replacement. If one is leaking I would rebuild all four. Good luck, hope this helps....

rbargeron · Jan 29, 2013

Be sure to check for gouges on the rod. I've had good results peening and filing and re-establishing a smooth surface with cyanoacrylate (super glue). The new seals are easy to put in, but they won't last if the rod is rough.

SanDucerro · Jan 29, 2013

Just had the cylinders on my L3130 FEL rebuilt last week. I'd tell you the price, but I can't. I know the overall bill - including full service of all fluids and filters - PLUS the seal rebuild was suppose to be $700, but I haven't gotten the final bill yet. The shop was suppose to call me if there was any significant increase above the estimate, but they never did - so I have to assume it's somewhere close to the original number. I do know they work great now, just can't tell you what the price was...

toyotadriver · Jan 31, 2013

Thanks for the input! I'll look into rebuilding them. They are in good shape otherwise.

azbinder · Jan 31, 2013

IIRC, on that loader, the head gland is aluminum and can galld when removed. If this happens, you will need to replace it. Book list is over $200 just for the gland. The model number of the loader is on a label on the left hand upright and will be needed to get the correct kits. Also, the lift and bucket kits ARE different.

JRobyn · Feb 5, 2013

Just recently had the curl cylinders on my LA853 loader rebuilt - was about $250 at a local hydraulic shop for both, including polishing out a scratch in one of the rods. They used aftermarket seal kits due to the exhorbitant high price of Kubota OEM kits.

SanDucerro · Feb 6, 2013

JRobyn said:
Just recently had the curl cylinders on my LA853 loader rebuilt - was about $250 at a local hydraulic shop for both, including polishing out a scratch in one of the rods. They used aftermarket seal kits due to the exhorbitant high price of Kubota OEM kits.

That's the truth! Just got my bill for the rebuild of the curl cylinders and service on my L3130. The seal kits were $132.45 per side from Kubota! That's $264.90 for parts alone - OUCH! The final bill was $1077.35, but that included the rebuild and a full service with every filter replaced and a complete change of oil and hydro fluids. Also included pick up and delivery at $110. Price was higher than I was led to believe it would be, but this was the tractors first time in the shop for an actual repair in over 10 years - so I can't complain too much. It's been a GREAT tractor.

JRobyn · Feb 6, 2013

IIRC, the price for the aftermarket seal kits was about $40-50 per side.

rclement · Sep 14, 2014

I have a mx 5100 and the fel bucket tilt is not working right. I was pushing a brush top and heard aloud pop at the cylinders and now the tilt is not working the bucket swings free as if the cylinders have no pressure. Anybody have this happen and if so how do I fix it ?

brain55 · Sep 14, 2014

rclement said:
I have a mx 5100 and the fel bucket tilt is not working right. I was pushing a brush top and heard aloud pop at the cylinders and now the tilt is not working the bucket swings free as if the cylinders have no pressure. Anybody have this happen and if so how do I fix it ?

You hyper - extended the bucket cylinders and pulled the piston and nut off the end of one or both of the rods, or broke the end off a rod.

Brian

Deere Dude · Sep 14, 2014

I just rebuilt 2 cylinders on my JD loader. The seals were shot but noticed that the nuts holding the piston on were very loose. They weren't even touching the piston.

rclement · Sep 15, 2014

Any idea how to fix or should I buy new cylinders

JRobyn · Sep 15, 2014

I have had very good and relatively inexpensive experience with pulling off the cylinders and taking them to the nearest local hydraulic shop for rebuild. A good shop will be able to fix them no matter what broke, and usually for MUCH less cost than new ones, and for not much more than it would cost to do it yourself. Plus they test and guarantee them. If you want to know who is a good shop in the area, call a grading company and ask who they use/recommend.

- Jay

whis · Sep 15, 2014

Depends on how the piston is attached, if it is held on with a nut and the nut stripped or broke you can drill and tap the shaft to hold the piston use fine thread allen head bolt

toyotadriver · Jan 15, 2017

I waited a long time before rebuilding the cylinders. They were only seeping but in the past couple months they really started leaking much more. So, I rebuilt them. Quite an easy job. Appreciate all the tips from everyone.

The tractor before starting the repair

Showing the leaks

To remove the cylinders I just had to remove these bolts and slide the pin out.

Front of leaking cylinder

Disassembling the cylinder

Removing the hydraulic rod

Rod removed

This is the rebuild kit

Piston removed by removing the nut

Piston end….the light color ring is the seal. It’s a pain to install

Under the piston ring is a rubber o ring

End cap with replacement O rings

Seal installed inside the cap. It’s a tight fit. The seal is the light color ring inside

Dave M7040 · Jan 15, 2017

Could you post a picture of the cylinder rod in the area underneath the piston which you removed by taking off the big nut.
Often when people are complaining of cylinders leaking down and there is no obvious external leak, it is the small O ring under the piston that has split allowing oil to bypass the piston.
Just buying that O ring from a hydraulic shop is much cheaper than a complete kit.

Dave M7040

repete · Jan 15, 2017

On ALL of my loaders I run the cylinders out to the full dump position then bring them back to where the cylinders are retracted about an inch and weld steel plates between the loader arm and the bucket. This eliminates the possibility of overextending the cylinders from hyperextension from either too much hydraulic pressure or being in the dump position and hitting an immovable object while driving forward.