Kubota B21 Tach Cable Repair

[HikoJoe]

The tach and hour meter on my Kubota B21 tractor aren't working. My current assumption is that the tach cable is broken and that if I can repair/replace it both the hour meter and tach will work once again. It isn't clear how to remove the instrument panel to detach the cable. Do I need to pull the steering wheel off? Any advise on how to remove the cable or troubleshoot the tach/hour meter problem would be appreciated.

 

[JIMEEL]

I have removed my tach several times to repair it. The top of the panel has two slots. I put a screw driver into the slots and pop the panel out. This gives access to the back of the tach. You will see a thumb nut that attaches the cable to the tach. It can be unscrewed to give access to the cable. The cable will pull out of the sleeve. If it is broken, you will only get part of the cable out. On mine, the end that causes the cable to turn has a piece that has a slot in it. On mine, the metal piece was loose on the cable. I used a crimper to re-attach the "drive end" to the cable. I have not had the sending unit off. It looks like it might be a job getting that part off!

 

[HikoJoe]

Thanks for the help. I'll give it a try. I see where the two slots are. I'll let you know how I do. By the way, when the cable breaks does the hour-meter stop running?

 

[vanb]

Do you know if the bx has a similar set up? My tach and hour meter were sometimes working, and by the fall the tach, hour meter and the gas gauge didn't work.

 

[troutsqueezer]

Caution:

First, you can damage the plastic around the instrument panel if you use a screwdriver in the slots at the top. It is better to use a putty knife and work it off going around the edges a little at a time. That way, it still looks good when you are done.

Also, the cable - which does turn the hour meter as well as the tach - may be broken for different reasons. When you pull the old one out, spin the end that is still engaged in the instrument panel end and make sure it spins freely and the tach needle moves. Sometimes the cable will break if the tach/ hour meter mechanism binds which can happen (DAMHIKT). I documented this repair on my website: B21 (second page).

 

[HikoJoe]

troutsqueezer-

I followed your advise and slowly pried off the dash to avoid damaging the plastic it came off successfully. Thanks for the advise.

Underneath the dash was a birds nest so I removed it. Amazing that a bird could find its way in there.

I detached the tach cable from the tach and the cable just pulled out, so it was broken. I did try to spin the tack by hand without success so the next step is to remove the tach and free it up and remove the rest of the tach cable to see if I can attempt a repair.

Loved your website! Great advise on general maintenance. The mats on my tractor were completely gone. I just got some interlocking mats at Harbor Freight and cut them to fit. Used automotive ratcheting fasteners to hold them down. Not perfect but pretty good.

Thanks for the advise and I'll let you know how the repair progresses.

 

[Tollster]

Troutsqueezer, that is a nice page and much of the info can be used for other models.. I have a BX, and wanted to tell you well done!

 

[troutsqueezer]

Thanks for the compliments, guys.

Joe, a new tach is pretty expensive. I hope you can get it working. I was lucky with mine. I won't be too surprised if it binds again but I hope it doesn't.

 

[HikoJoe]

First let me thank everybody for helping me get this repaired done.

The advice on disassembly of the dashboard and Jimell’s posting on tachometer cable repair were very helpful. Removal of the dashboard went as planned. There was a lot of dust, a bird’s nest and other debris in the back of the dash. There was also occurred considerable amount of dust and dirt inside the dash. Both boots over the cable that protect dust from getting in the dash were not in place.

The tach and hour meter are completely mechanical. The electrical connections are solely for the dash lights.

Upon removal of the tach cable from the engine block, I found that the fitting at the end of the cable had become disconnected (same as Jimell’s experience). The cable itself was not broken. My repair was simply to use some JB Weld and reattach the fitting after cleaning with denatured alcohol. I decided to try this rather than crimping. The tach mechanism was stuck. I’m time sure that’s the reason that the fitting on the other end had come loose. After applying some WD-40, I was able to use a small screwdriver and free the mechanism. Another item I noticed was that the needle on the tach had been broken off - likely when somebody previously tried to free the mechanism. I bonded the end of the needle back on and added little metal strips on both sides to add structural integrity. The dash is reassembled to the tractor. The dust boots are reinstalled properly and I used electrical tape to close out the ends to prevent dust and dirt from getting inside the boots.

I started the engine and the tach and hour meter work perfectly.

Thanks again to everyone for your help.

 

[Tollster]

Well done.

Years ago I would lube my motorcycle cables with oil. Cut off the corner of a baggie, then put a hole in the corner and slide it down over the outer cable sleeve, wrap a rubber band around it to secure it to the sleeve, then top off your new funnel with 30 weight and let hang over the shop trash can over night, letting gravity do the work for ya. I have never had a cable failure.