Kobota B6100d

[Buzzardstractors]

I have a B6100D I bought it in January the right brake did not work I took it apart and found the bull pinion shaft was snapped off on the brake drum spline I rebuilt the axle case with new bearings and seals bought a used bull pinion shaft from Agparts it looks like the shoes on that side are new and when assembled they are very tight and I suspect that’s why the shaft snapped off how can I keep this from happening again do the new shoes need dressed before putting them in service

 

[arto98607]

Sounds like you need to buy different shoes

 

[oldrustysteel]

I have a B6100D I bought it in January the right brake did not work I took it apart and found the bull pinion shaft was snapped off on the brake drum spline I rebuilt the axle case with new bearings and seals bought a used bull pinion shaft from Agparts it looks like the shoes on that side are new and when assembled they are very tight and I suspect that’s why the shaft snapped off how can I keep this from happening again do the new shoes need dressed before putting them in service

Maybe you should inspect the other side as well? You may find a clue to the problem, and you may prevent a similar problem from happening.

 

[rScotty]

I have a B6100D I bought it in January the right brake did not work I took it apart and found the bull pinion shaft was snapped off on the brake drum spline I rebuilt the axle case with new bearings and seals bought a used bull pinion shaft from Agparts it looks like the shoes on that side are new and when assembled they are very tight and I suspect that’s why the shaft snapped off how can I keep this from happening again do the new shoes need dressed before putting them in service

It used to be common to dress the shoes to fit the drum.

First take a look inside at the drum. If the inside of the brake drum has ridges runing in the direction or rotation that is usually OK on a tractor. What you don't want are rust pits. Deep rust pits can fill up with bits of brake shoe material and then will tear chunks off the new shoes. So you may want to lathe them until the inside is smooth.

Then sand, grind, or lathe the shoes to fit the drum curvature. Old time brake shops have the right tools and do this everyday. There might be an old time brake shop doing drums - often is in big cities. They probably don't advertise. To find them, find out where the old car hobbyists and rebuilders go. Or you can do it yourself if you go slowly, but it's slow progress. Wear goggles and a mask!!!!

Remember that the brake activation is not a simple expansion of the shoes. The brake cam expands one side of the shoes while the other side simply pivots.
But it's a tractor. If you can get a third to a half of the friction surface on the shoes to contact the drum you will have decent braking.
Good Luck,
rScotty

 

[Buzzardstractors]

Thanks the drum is smooth no ridges no pits. I started using 180 emry they fit better it looks like I’ll have to keep working on it. Thanks again

 

[rScotty]

Thanks the drum is smooth no ridges no pits. I started using 180 emry they fit better it looks like I’ll have to keep working on it. Thanks again

Perfect. That will work. Even coarser emery would be fine. Please remember goggles and a mask.

 

[Buzzardstractors]

That seemed to work didn’t take too much sanding I will definitely inspect the left side thank for te help

 

[Vigo327]

Im a little late to this party but since the front and rear shoe are identical what i probably would have done as the lazy way out is split up the shoes so each side had one new and one old. Wouldn't do that on a car (car probably wouldn't have swappable front/rear shoes anyway) but i agree with the 'good enough' statement in this application.

Enjoy your B6100, i love mine.

 

[oldrustysteel]

The B6100 is a workhorse. 2300 hrs on mine. still going strong.