KL130 loader removal

[a.p.]

Hi everyone -

Well, my new CK30 arrived yesterday. Most impressive - it seems to be just the right size and very comfortable.

Given that the frost is still leaving the ground around here (mud season is beginning!) I can't do much work with it yet. So I've been monkeying around with it in the garage.

I tried to take the loader off last night - arms and bucket, not just the bucket. I was doing it in the same place where I used to take the loader off my previous little JD tractor, so I know that the floor is level enough for loader removal.

I followed the instructions in the entertainingly translated loader manual:
- PUT DOWN LOADER SUPPORT ARMS
- DROP REAR OF BUCKET TO GROUND UNTIL LOADER ARMS ARE BEARING
- TILT BUCKET UNTIL FRONT EDGE BEARS
- REMOVE LINCH PINS AND POP OUT MOUNTING PINS.....

It was at this point that I ran into trouble. After some work I got the pin on the right side out, but for the life of me I can't get the left side pin removed. I've tried wiggling the bucket with the control valve into every position I can, and simply can not get the pin to loosen up. If I hit the pin with a hammer and a block of wood I can get it to wiggle a bit from side to side, but there is no way I can remove it.

I checked for obvious things: floor is level, front and rear tires are inflated equally, loader arms appear straight, I didn't have the loose arm jacked up out of the pivot (in fact, I replaced the pin on the right side to see if it would facilitate removing the left side pin).

I'm feeling like I'm missing something simple here. Could one of you please enlighten me?

Thanks for your assistance.

AP

 

[TBDonnelly]

I'm thinking it could be an over abundance of paint or a metal burr blocking things up. Try tapping it out from the back side.

Congrats on the new addition!

Don

 

[rimshot]

Have you tried greasing the zerk with a high air pressure grease gun before attempting removal?

rimshot

 

[a.p.]

Thanks for the responses guys.

The one on the right side was totally greasy, so I am assuming that the problematic one is also. But you know what they say about assuming... I'll hit it with the grease gun and see if it helps.

I don't think that I can get behind it to tap it - it's awfully close to that new shiny hood!

Does anyone else have an idea? It doesn't seem to be a common problem - I did a search on it earlier.

Best, AP

 

[wallace]

Over a period of time they will loosen up and go in and out real easy but at this time I would tell you to get a pry bar behind the grab handle and slow pry it out as you pry out you may have to shim the pry bar with wood.
Get some masking tape and tape the loader mount off and also rap the pry bar in tape also this will help from scratching that new shinny paint.

 

[a.p.]

Brute force it then ! I'm good at that.

Good call on the masking tape and wood.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again - AP

 

[klm]

Unless you just have to have it off now, put the pin back in the right side, leave the loader on for awhile and use it all you can then try it again.

 

[TBDonnelly]

Thanks for the responses guys.


I don't think that I can get behind it to tap it - it's awfully close to that new shiny hood!

Opening the hood will give you a little clearance behind the pin but Rick's input is right on (as usual )

Don

 

[a.p.]

Well I greased and pried and popped the hood and tapped and swore. I even got my wife out to help me since she's usually better at this stuff than me. We got it out maybe 3/16" but no more. That thing is tight.

We also decided on the "use it for a while" route, but, given that that piece doesn't really move much, I'm not sure if that will help.

The other side is moving qute freely now.

I'm actually wondering if the two sides of the bracket that stays on the tractor are out of allignment - but if that were the case whoever assembled the loader would have had to really pound on it and I don't think that the dealer who sold it to me would do that.

Time will tell - but if anyone comes up with another idea I'm all ears.

Really nice tractor, by the way. My sons and I put a few gentle hours on it this afternoon cleaning up winter deadfall. It seems smooth and quiet.

Best to all, AP

 

[TBDonnelly]

My other thought is to try a 6" C-clamp. Ideally some sort of small bridge over the grease fitting side, so as to get a straight pull with the C-clamp. Otherwise, it's a slight angle for the C-clamp to seat on the frame next to the pin.

Don

 

[a.p.]

I forgot to mention that I tried the clamp too. No happiness there either.

 

[rimshot]

I forgot to mention that I tried the clamp too. No happiness there either.

=========
Hold on there A.P. We'll get that thing out of there for you yet but have you really been through the whole drill yet. we have got to get those two opposing holes to line up better. The next time you try to remove that pin try putting varying pressure on the FEL by putting a little down pressure on your loader arms with the loader bucket bottomed out on the ground. Try curling bucket or moving arms. You can also reverse the direction of thrust by trying to lift something a bit too heavy. It doesn't always have to take a whole lot of pressure. It went in there so it will come out some day. If you have already exhausted this excercise and been unsuccessful.......not to worry. There will be a whole bunch of veterans checking in on this quirky pin.

Hope this has not spoiled your fun with that nice new ck30 ...It will happen. I'm sure this is just a "break in" issue for a new tractor.

rimshot

 

[IslandTractor]

I kinda doubt the FEL posts are out of line as the dealer obviously managed to get the loader assembled. However, one other thing you might try is to put the loader back together and then take it off starting on the "tough" side.

I haven't taken my FEL off but I did have a heck of a time getting pins in to a grapple the first time due to paint on the pin. That thing required a sledge hammer to move and you don't have that option. As others have noted, if you just use the loader for a few hours it might wear off any extra paint that is jamming the pin.

 

[a.p.]

Hi Rimshot - I tried curling the bucket etc. I actually had my wife moving it incrementally as I was prying on the pin. We had that thing in so many positions it looked like bucket yoga (downward loader).

Island - I don't think its been bent either - it just feels like it. I'm going to use it for a while and see if it loosens up.

Thanks for the thoughts.

AP

 

[wallace]

Does it look like they beat the pin in when they assembled it?

 

[bearhawk]

Hmm,

I've had my CK20 for over 3 years.

I wonder if I should try to take my loader off?



Naaa

Seriously, can you use a pipe wrench to turn the pin as you try to pry it out?

Liberal amounts of penetrating lube might help also.

 

[a.p.]

Does it look like they beat the pin in when they assembled it?

No, not at all. That's what's puzzling me.

 

[woodyacres]

How about moving the tractor forward and backward (slightly) to help line up the pin and the wholes a little.
Had my DK35 for almost a year and haven't tried taking off my loader either... too much work to do!

 

[DirtHauler]

No, not at all. That's what's puzzling me.

Check your tire pressures, especially the rear. If the rear is a little off level from side to side it will put a bind on the pins. Use a level on the floor at the front of the bucket and compare it to the reading at the rear of the tractor. On some KL130 loaders, like mine, the loader arms do not lift or lower equally (slight twist).

 

[JonKioti]

I removed my KL-120 in just a few minutes by lowering the support arms and adjusting the arms and bucket and watched what position put the least amount of stress on the pins. After using the loader without removing it for 120 hours, it still came off easily.

I would follow Island Tractor's suggestion of removing the tight pin first, as even a little misalignment when removing the other pin would bind the remaining one. Can you twist it at all, even before the handle flange clears the square part? Mine moves a little, so a few taps clockwise and counterclockwise might free it without going near the hood.

I assume there isn't anything in the hole where the snap ring clips in to the pin.

I'm also assuming the KL-120 and KL-130 have a similar mounting. Ignore me if they are different.

Once the loader was off, I found that retracting all the hydralics gave the optimum position for storing the loader as well as protecting the rams.

I'd come over and give you a hand, but I believe the airfare is a little much right now.

Good luck,

Jon