Kioti NX front pull/tow point?

[Overtaxed]

If I look under my Kioti NX, right in the front (forward of the front axle) there's a beefy L bracket that's welded to the frame. Anyone happen to know if that's rated/designed to pull (like hooking up a chain to pull a log or the tractor out of the mud?). It's on the frame, but it's also round stock, so I'm not super confident that it's welded deep/well enough to support a huge load. Appears to be about 5/8 or maybe 3/4in, it's bent into an L, with the open end pointed backwards (like you'd want if you were going to hook up a tow strap).

I'm going to drill and install a hook to the front anyway, but just wondered if this hook is designed for that use as well, always nice to have a backup!

 

[D&D]

I made one for my dk

Tow / tie-down DK5310SE

I was concerned about pulling on or with the loader so I made up a frame mounted pull / tie-down point. After machining the eye and adding an oilite bushing, it was welded to a piece of 1/2" plate. Attached using 4 new 14x1.5x40mm 10.9 bolts.

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I used that L-bracket as a tie down for trailering and the one time I had to tow my tractor with my payloader, I wrapped the chain around my beefed up grill guard.

 

[grsthegreat]

The one i had on my dk45 pulled off the tractor when pulling a ups rig out of a ditch. They didn't weld it on very well, or to the proper point on the frame. I rewelded it and its been trouble free.

the open spot was where Kioti chose to attach the hook




After it ripped out, i rewelded it to the frame.....i had no idea they attached it to such a crappy spot.

this is where i welded it to the frame

 

[Overtaxed]

I decided to leave that hook be and put a hook right up front in the middle instead. This is the hook I used; if you drill in the front middle (where a licence plate would go, just to describe the area more easily), you'll be in at least 1/2 an inch of steel. Drilling it with a hand drill was doable, but you'd be a LOT happier with a magnetic drill, it is HARD steel that even my cobalt bits really struggled with.

Here's what I bolted on:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BL3FZ31L?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Probably good for around 10K which is more than the NX will generate in pulling force. If I was going to use this to winch out the tractor from really bad stuff with another machine I might go bigger on the hooks; this hook it for pulling with the tractor, not pulling the tractor, so I don't think I'll ever get over the breaking force of these hooks.

 

[LouNY]

Using a front frame mounted tow hook for heavy loads is a recipe for disaster, especially if it is a shock type loading such as load catching and coming loose then catching again.
If anticipating heavy tow loads from the front end of a tractor;
prepare for it by securing a large tow cable to the rear drawbar of the tractor using a large oval ring or cable loop and running it up forward and then securing that to the front frame to keep the cable centered and out of the way till needed.
The front "frames" are very light duty with the engine being the actual stressed member.

 

[Overtaxed]

Using a front frame mounted tow hook for heavy loads is a recipe for disaster, especially if it is a shock type loading such as load catching and coming loose then catching again.
If anticipating heavy tow loads from the front end of a tractor;
prepare for it by securing a large tow cable to the rear drawbar of the tractor using a large oval ring or cable loop and running it up forward and then securing that to the front frame to keep the cable centered and out of the way till needed.
The front "frames" are very light duty with the engine being the actual stressed member.

Thanks Lou, I wasn't aware the front end of these tractors was so weak. I don't anticipate a huge load and never a shock load, but I'll keep this in mind, I have a setup in the rear as well off the drawbar for when I really need to pull, sounds like that's the only one I should use for anything big.

 

[LouNY]

Thanks Lou, I wasn't aware the front end of these tractors was so weak. I don't anticipate a huge load and never a shock load, but I'll keep this in mind, I have a setup in the rear as well off the drawbar for when I really need to pull, sounds like that's the only one I should use for anything big.

It isn't just your tractor, it is almost all tractors. Since the old Olivers, Cockshutt and Moline tractors with their heavy cast iron bath tub frames. Most tractors have had very light duty "frames".