Kioti NX - Cab door squeaking

[DeanFM]

About 30 hours on my NX5510-Cab now. Running great, seems up to my challenges. This is my first cab tractor. I almost feel guilty without the dirt, dust, and bugs getting to me. Rolled over a significant bumble bee nest this weekend. They were very upset, then apparently surprised by the glass between us. Kioti Cab = 1, Bumblebees = 0.

However, about at about 10 hours, the right hand door has started to squeak, when closed, underway, and at PTO RPM's.

At about 20 hours, the left hand door started doing this as well. It's quite a loud squeak, constant, almost a high frequency rattle, and sounds like it is coming directly from the door latches (or possibly from somewhere near as well). When I pull inward on the door tightly, inward tension halts the squeaking. Outward tension on the door also halts the squeaking.

Anyone else had this experience? Also, looking for adjustment point, I can't seem to find one. Any ideas for tightening?

Thanks!
Dean

 

[Threepoint]

Haven't had the issue with my NX (85+ hrs so far). So can't help, other than to confirm that it is not a normal condition. Worth a call to the dealer.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

If the door is squeaking, the lock is likely not latching tight enough causing the door to work against the rubber weather stripping. Check the latch the lock mechanism grabs to see if it has obviously moved. Look at the locking mechanism on the door. If nothing appears loose, and everything is in order, first loosen the latch on the A pillar (the forward-most cab post), move the latch plate slightly inward and snug it back up and see it that doesn't fix your door squeak. The door may require just a bit more force to close as it will fit snugger against the weather stripping seal.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I had my 5510 door latch vibrate loose the other day, I noticed a couple days before the door was a bit hard to get to latch closed then it got to were it wouldn't I removed the cover on the inside of the door latch to find the 3 machine screws had backed out a bit that hold the latch to the door glass mount. Takes a Allen wrench to tighten them, once tight the door ***** better than it has sense I bought it. Just remove the Phillips screw that holds the orange release handle on and then the two Phillips head screws that hold the cover over the latch. Took about 5 min to fix.

 

[DieselBound]

Just getting around to adjusting the latch on my NX5510 and I'm not sure what part is really adjustable. I used to be able to pull the door closed using the rail, but a while back it stopped closing that way and would only bounce and not latch. It's almost like there are two latching positions, weak and really tight. The first catch seems to latch, but the lower front corner doesn't seal up well and it lets in a lot of noise (esp. engine). If I stand outside and really push it hard the latch seems to engage and lock more tightly, almost too tightly (I don't know how I'd manage to pull it closed this tight).

Here's what I see with the cover off the inside of the latch (not really seeing anything that adjust):
View attachment 526629

 

[cutthroat]

I had a similar squeak. I found it to be the door latch. I took the black cover off, WD-40 everything, and tightened all nuts and problem went away.

 

[DieselBound]

I tried adjusting the latch until I was blue in the face. It just seems like things have settled and there's really no way of getting it to close as tightly has it had, using anything other than excessive force. It's almost like the glass is bowed (middle out), if that makes sense; that or the rear hinges need to move a tad bit away from the frame.

 

[WV hayseed]

You should be able to adjust the striker out toward the door. The piece attached to the cab not the door.

 

[DieselBound]

Yeah, I'd tried adjusting that thing every which way (IN, OUT, UP and DOWN and nearly every combination there of), but no go.

As noted, it's like there's two latch stages. I can pull it closed through the first stage and that's it. At this point the lower front corner doesn't seem to seal much and noise readily comes in: it didn't used to be like this; as a matter of fact, I used to be able to close using the hand hold rail on the door (if I pull using that rail it now I cannot get it to latch- the door just bounces).

If you stand outside and close the door very slowly you'll hear one click. If you push harder it'll click a second time and be very well seated/shut: I cannot get that second set/click from inside the cab- cannot pull on the latch handle or the rail hard enough. The other thing I've noticed from the outside is that the latch will release at the slightest of touches/pulls on the bottom of the lever- that's not the case on the other side; granted, don't pull on that handle if you don't want the door to open; it's just that it seems like the entire mechanism is fatigued.

Maybe I've just worn it out (at around 200 hrs)? I'm in and out of the cab quite a bit.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Yes there is two latch clicks, have you checked to see if the hinge mounts have loosened up and let the door slip out of alignment a bit. I would remove the latch and see how the door shuts, it should touch even all the way around.

 

[DieselBound]

Country, how to you check those hinge mounts? In my mind it's like those are closing too tightly now, like I need to shim them out (to allow the front edge to come in farther). It's really a puzzler. Not sure exactly at what point (and how) it managed to all of a sudden (it seems) change. But, as I said, I am in and out of the cab a LOT.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Open the door and see if the hinges are bolted or welded to the cab, I don't recall and can't look at mine till tomorrow, as for the other half of the hinge , it's bolted to the glass through rubber mounts, could be the mount has loosened or even one of the rubber bushings have torn or become dislodged.

 

[DieselBound]

OK, got around to getting some more data points on my issue. I noted that the right-hand side door doesn't have the issues that the left-hand side door does. The problems that I see are:

1) I can no longer get the double-latching to work (won't even catch on first latch/click- bounces) by pulling on the door handrail (or by pulling on the tab on the inside of the door latch cover);
2) The top forward edge (assume top as well) of the door is clearly closing and hitting way ahead of the lower part of the front edge.

Here's what my hinges looks like (no idea whether there's any adjustment or whether the problem I'm having could even be addressed by adjusting them):


Here's what the alignment looks like when door is only engaged at the first latch/click (need to zoom in to really see):

 

[countrybumpkin]

Pics don't work for me for some reason. Does the striker bolt and latch line up good or is one off just a bit? The bolt should also be adjustable. But the door should fit squarely in the opening of a chance of breaking the glass by uneven pressure is very possible.

 

[DieselBound]

Not sure why the pictures decided to stop showing. "Fixed."

Striker doesn't really factor in here as I cannot get the necessary adjustment out of it (reference the second picture). It's like the glass itself has warped! That of the cab frame tweaked

 

[Threepoint]

Not sure why the pictures decided to stop showing. "Fixed."

Striker doesn't really factor in here as I cannot get the necessary adjustment out of it (reference the second picture). It's like the glass itself has warped! That of the cab frame tweaked

DieselBound, good pictures. Yep, sure looks to me like there is actual warpage in the glass panel! I don't see how hinge adjust/misadjustment, or latch/striker plate adjustment, could account for this. Your bottom pic shows a pronounced outward bow at mid-point, relative to the door jamb.

I'd open the door and hold a straight-edge against it to confirm. Snap another picture of that, then do the same on the opposite door for comparison, since some bow may be intentional by design. I'd email your pics to your dealer to see what they think. I suspect they'll follow up with Kioti in Wendell.

This might be a warranty issue. Some warpage is expected in tempering and heat-strengthening glass. https://www.dillmeierglass.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Dillmeier_Downloads_TolerancesP2.pdf

Perhaps this was a panel just on the margin of tolerance that slipped by QC. Internal stresses might account for the bow gradually getting worse over time.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Hinge alignment and adjustment would have everything to do with the glass becoming farther out at the bottom then the top, yes the latch bolt would not have anything to to with that issue. I was going by what he said at one point in his post about it not even latching on the first click , but then he goes on and saying the bottom pic is with it latched on the first click. The door worked properly up till recently, so something has either bent, came loose or broke letting the door slip out of alignment.

 

[Threepoint]

CB, I agree completely if it were the top or bottom that's out. It's the bow at midpoint shown in the pic that puzzles me.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Yeah, I see what your talking about but the doors are curved from top to bottom, even were the handle mounts is curved. On mine it looks the same way on both doors, if you look close it appears the weather stripping is a bit fatten out in the center that it is on the top and bottom half of the door.

 

[Threepoint]

Interesting. I haven't actually been able to check on my own tractor. Laid up with a broken ankle right now.