Kioti No start

   / Kioti No start #61  
Do not use butt connectors when cleaning that up. Solder your connections then use shrink tube.
 
   / Kioti No start #62  
OK, I have to ask.. what the "heck" happened to that relay? Soaked in saltwater for a few days?. :shocked:
 
   / Kioti No start
  • Thread Starter
#63  
The only thing I can think of is it got wet from power washing...
 
   / Kioti No start #64  
Wow, power-washing, takes another victim.. Tractors can work for years in rainstorms. but power washers seem to cause trouble.
 
   / Kioti No start #65  
Wow, power-washing, takes another victim.. Tractors can work for years in rainstorms. but power washers seem to cause trouble.
Its possible that pressure washing can cause problems.
But I have been pressure washing my tractors (including the engines) several times per year for many years and have never had a problem
 
   / Kioti No start #66  
YIKES! Now disconnect your battery ground, and I'd use marine grade heat shrink connectors, Anchor is one excellent brand I use on a regular basis. Re-connect the battery after all the repairs are done.
At an absolute minimum use heat shrink tubing over standard connectors. Use dielectric grease on each wire end that you connect to another piece of wire.
AND don't use the pressure washer where it can get to electrical components. Wash her like a vintage car and she'll treat you right!:thumbsup:

Good job solving the problem!
 
   / Kioti No start #67  
Its possible that pressure washing can cause problems.
But I have been pressure washing my tractors (including the engines) several times per year for many years and have never had a problem

I too use my 2Kpsi washer on occasion but try very hard to not spray anywhere near relays, instrument cluster, etc. Been lucky so far I guess.:confused3:
 
   / Kioti No start #68  
Fuel stop solenoid is inoperative. There is a manual lever on the Injector pump. Operate that to shut it down for tonite.
 
   / Kioti No start #69  
I think this is your schematic:
http://pt709.synology.me/electrical.xps

There is a shutdown solenoid (and a manual shutoff lever) on the right side of the engine. Look at the timer relay on the lower half of the schematic. The actual timer could be bad but first check that 10 amp fuse, the 25 amp flasher fuse, and also hook 12v to the solenoid to be sure it works. Given the rats nest from the troubleshooting, there may be other problems so you might want to check the voltages at the timer relay.
 
   / Kioti No start
  • Thread Starter
#70  
OK..Folks...The electric zombies are back.....
This has got to stop sometime....
A week ago the tractor would not shut off. I had to engage the clutch to stop it....All dash lights are on
Now...It seems like the glow plugs are not getting juice.,...One of the dash lights isn't going on and I dont hear that click anymore. You know the one when you turn the key twice.
Any ideas>>>>>>
 
   / Kioti No start #71  
Do not use butt connectors when cleaning that up. Solder your connections then use shrink tube.
Murphy,
You are a man after my own heart. I hate butt connectors. I solder every thing, unless it is a road side fix. Then I make a note to solder it later. When butt connectors corrode they cause nightmares troubleshooting.
 
   / Kioti No start #72  
I have the same problem on my Mechron 2200. Starter turns but no lights on the instrument panel. I have changed the 60AMP fuse, the ignition switch, all relays, cleaned all grounds on the frame, changed out the display unit, tested the battery,changed the battery connectors and still nothing. All fuses checked good. Today I will check for power to the relays. And the schematic mentions nothing about a programable engine control. (APECS) Looking at the schematic everything goes through the display unit. Any ideas would be gretly appreciated.
 
   / Kioti No start #73  
I have the same problem on my Mechron 2200. Starter turns but no lights on the instrument panel. I have changed the 60AMP fuse, the ignition switch, all relays, cleaned all grounds on the frame, changed out the display unit, tested the battery,changed the battery connectors and still nothing. All fuses checked good. Today I will check for power to the relays. And the schematic mentions nothing about a programable engine control. (APECS) Looking at the schematic everything goes through the display unit. Any ideas would be gretly appreciated.

I have the same problem on my Mechron 2200. Starter turns but no lights on the instrument panel. I have changed the 60AMP fuse, the ignition switch, all relays, cleaned all grounds on the frame, changed out the display unit, tested the battery,changed the battery connectors and still nothing. All fuses checked good. Today I will check for power to the relays. And the schematic mentions nothing about a programable engine control. (APECS) Looking at the schematic everything goes through the
Start a new post. That one is 9 years old
 
   / Kioti No start #76  
No problem. You might get more attention with a new thread.
 
   / Kioti No start #77  
"Thanks for your help guys! I don't think there's any issue with the battery, because I have power........."

I too once thought that a 12V battery that showed ~12 -12.5V was not the source of an electrical gremlin.

....that was UNTIL I discovered that a 12V battery can produce 12V on a multi-meter, but does not produce sufficient amperage to initiate the starter. Cause? One cell within the battery had failed.

Now if I have an electrical gremlin, the first thing I do after checking the battery connections is replace the battery with a KNOWN functional battery or hook up a battery charger that has a START setting to see if that will get the starter to turn over.

Electrical gremlins are called gremlins for a good reason!
 
   / Kioti No start #78  
"Thanks for your help guys! I don't think there's any issue with the battery, because I have power........."

I too once thought that a 12V battery that showed ~12 -12.5V was not the source of an electrical gremlin.

....that was UNTIL I discovered that a 12V battery can produce 12V on a multi-meter, but does not produce sufficient amperage to initiate the starter. Cause? One cell within the battery had failed.

Now if I have an electrical gremlin, the first thing I do after checking the battery connections is replace the battery with a KNOWN functional battery or hook up a battery charger that has a START setting to see if that will get the starter to turn over.

Electrical gremlins are called gremlins for a good reason!
Either that or a bad relay….
 
   / Kioti No start #79  
you HAVE to do a load test on a battery, not just check voltage. what is the voltage while drawing a heavy load.
 
   / Kioti No start #80  
An easy way to semi load test your battery is to turn on your headlights while facing a wall to see the light reflection or have a helper watch the lights. Leaving the lights try to start the engine, if the lights dim and the engine cranks over the battery is in decent shape. If the lights don't dim and the tractor does turn over it's likely an interlock or safety issue. If the lights dim excessively or go out and the engine doesn't crank over it's either the battery or the cables.
 

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