Kioti DK series

[THEPARTYHOUND]

Im looking at a Kioti 7320 as an upgrade to my older JD. I had not seen one in person, so I went to a coworkers place this afternoon to see his new DK45 (I think) with 20 hours on the clock. It has the shuttle shift with the reverser lever. One thing that bothered me about it was that when starting out in high range, 1st gear and letting out on the clutch it would chatter or shake severely as the clutch engaged. It would not do this at all in low range. My coworker said the dealer told him all tractors that use that transmission have the same problem till it gets broke in. Sounds kinda strange to me and makes me rethink looking towards Kioti for my next tractor if this is what they pass off for "normal till it gets broke in". Is this something anyone else has experienced with their similar sized models?

 

[Coyote machine]

I've had a DK-40 HST SE since new in 2010. It's NOT the same model- hydrostat vs. shuttle shift, BUT what you and your coworker are being told is normal, most likely isn't a fact. I can't say for sure, BUT I can say that starting from a standstill in H is not going to work like starting out in L or M or whatever the equivalent is on a shuttle-shifter. I suspect H is similar to H on the HST, in that it is really only for road travel and nothing else- but again I could be off base. But for sure I don't buy that it will 'go away' once broken in.
Maybe someone else who owns one can better address this issue?

As far as buying or considering a Kioti, I've had 2 DKs in the last ten years. I upgraded to the 40 from the 35 after the first year because I needed a more powerful HP tractor with more lift capacity, which I did not know when I bought the 35.
My personal experience with over 1500 hours between them is I'd highly recommend them as a high quality brand for most compact tractors vs. any other brand available.

 

[DK35vince]

My DK 35 can be jumpy if I leave it throttled up forward/reversing or pulling out from a stop. (Can't imagine why anyone would want to do that anyway, much harder on the clutch IMO)
I never do that. I use the foot throttle and throttle down to forward/reverse or pull out from a stop and then throttle back up and its nice and smooth in any gear.

 

[ritcheyvs]

My 2006 DK45s with shuttle transmission does not exhibit any clutch shudder. I routinely mow in 1-high, drive around my property in 2-high, and road travel in 4-high. I start in those gears from a dead stop. The main clutch is a big old single disk dry clutch, like a car. I suspect his shudder is either poor clutch/throttle technique or a contaminated clutch disk (water or oil). Apparently, water can collect in the clutch housing; my machine has a drain plug there and the manual says to drain periodically.

 

[THEPARTYHOUND]

Every vehicle I drive is a manual tranny, so I'm pretty smooth on the clutch. There is definately something with the tractor, just wondering if this is normal or not?

 

[K5lwq]

I would not expect or except shutter as normal.

Why not go test drive a new DK45 and compare to your coworker's tractor?

 

[THEPARTYHOUND]

Yeah, I think I will do that. I don't think I would ACCEPT it either! lol!

 

[Coyote machine]

That's what one's warranty is for. Dealer seems to be blowing smoke, where it's not supposed to be. Tell the coworker to have his tractor checked, and first see if there is water/oil at the bell housing drain plug...

 

[Kioti Paul]

I purchased my DK45 in 2008 (new, but I think it was built in 2006). Starting off in the right gears (I think med range, 2nd gear) with the right throttle setting (2,000 RPM +/-) it would shudder something terrific!! I (certainly) noticed this in the dealer's lot well before negotiating a purchase price.

If I had a choice between 2 identical tractors, one with a smooth clutch, & one that chattered, sure I would have chosen the smooth operating one, but I had been tractor shopping for quite a while, and this was the only one I found that had everything I was looking for, without added things I didn't want, and in just the size / horsepower I was looking for; so I was willing to 'work around' the chattering clutch. I have driven several vehicles with chattering clutches, and have found I can (& do) develop 'techniques' to avoid (or minimize) the shudder.

The tractor had been setting on the lot for 2 years without selling (very likely because of the clutch), so the dealer seemed quite 'motivated' to sell; and I feel I got a very good deal. He never represented that the chatter would disappear after break-in (& I would have laughed at him if he did)

I have owned it now for 10 years & have 1,000 hrs on it. The chatter has now all but disappeared, I no longer 'baby' it, but if I try to make it shudder (just to see if it is still there!) , I have no problem "accomplishing the mission"! The clutch SLOWLY got better over maybe 300 / 400 hrs; certainly well past 'break-in' (& warranty).

I have never regretted buying it; but I certainly understand everyone's intolerance towards chattering clutches!

We have no real way of subjectively comparing my tractors "shudder" to your friend's tractor, so we may well be comparing apples to oranges.

My only real advice would be BEFORE you purchase, operate the tractor long enough to see what it would take to avoid the chatter; then decide if you are willing to do that for the rest of the time you own it. Do not believe any salesman that says the chatter will go away after break in!!!

 

[CMV]

If it were me, either the dealer would make it right before I bought it or I would keep shopping. If the answer is "they all do that" and you don't like it (whatever the behavior is), then there are many other similar machines to choose among.

"I wish the loader moved a little faster", "I wish this had a TYM price tag", "I wish the cup holder was a little deeper" - stuff like that, yeah you deal with and compromise a little. But if something like how the clutch behaves is an annoyance on an initial test drive, you're going to have a constant reminder every time you're on the machine that there's something kind of significant you dislike. If it doesn't seem "right" and their answer is "buy it and we'll just hope it goes away in a few months or you will get used to it" I don't think I'd be interested in doing business there.

Only exception might be if the price was so steeply discounted that it just made sense to accept it. Would have to be a great bargain for me to accept that though. Or if they can demonstrate it's a technique issue and he can easily operate it smoothly.

edit - just re-read and this is buddy's machine - not one on the lot you are considering. You will know when you test drive the one you want if it has any behaviors you dislike. Also noticed (I should read better) only starting out in H. Is that something you'd be doing often? I'm in H range to run down the road ~1/2 mile to get fuel (or more likely a snack ). 95%+ of the time I have no reason to even be in H range.

 

[cat fever]

I have nothing to say but good for my Kioti. It has been able to easily do everything I need out of it.

I did have a jumpy type situation with my clutch. I talked to the dealers mechanic. While letting out the clutch make sure you are not resting your other foot on the brake pedal. When the brake pedal is activated it puts the tractor in 4 wheel drive, with the clutching action and the machine going in/out of 4 wheel drive that is what was causing my issue. I now pay attention to this and have not had a problem.

I would not hesitate to buy another Kioti. Especially if it had a instructor/buddy seat. Hope Kioti is reading this.

 

[THEPARTYHOUND]

Yeah, the chattering clutch on my coworkers DK was definitely not an operator issue...I did try to feather it but was not able to come up with a technique that prevented the thing from shuddering. I will pass the info on to him that this is not something that is normal for this machine. I believe that he ordered this machine set up how how wanted it (backhoe, cab, etc), so it was delivered and that was the first time he drove it.

cat fever, Im glad to hear that you like your RX6620. I was also looking at the RX series, although I figured for an extra 1k I'd spring for the extra ponies of the 7320. Was there a reason you opted for the 6620 instead?

 

[woolyAcres]

@THEPARTYHOUND
I have the RX7320, about 75 hours on it. I was out moving hay today and tried releasing the clutch when in high range, 1st gear. No shutter. RPMs were about 1600. Not cold here today ~40F but engine wasn't all the way up to operating temp when I did this. Hope this helps. I really like the power shuttle in this machine. There is a way to increase/decrease the rate at which it accelerates/decelerates when moving the shuttle lever from forward to reverse or reverse to forward. I've not really played with that. Seems fine where it is on mine. Perhaps the model you tested was set to be very aggressive?

My 2 complaints so far with this tractor are 1. cab noise and 2. no buddy seat. Neither of which can be dealt with via options, dealers, or aftermarket stuff as far as I know.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Yeah, the chattering clutch on my coworkers DK was definitely not an operator issue...

Just a thought, but is the clutch pedal adjusted properly? There should be one inch of pedal free travel before encountering resistance where the clutch begins to disengage. Smooth clutch operation can be hard to impossible if the clutch is adjusted wrong. The selling dealer should have made this adjustment (and many others) before delivery but it doesn't hurt to check.

About technique, I always use the foot throttle and start to let out the clutch with RPM near idle. I only use the hand throttle for mowing and only after the clutch is fully engaged (i.e. start with foot throttle and transition to the hand throttle after underway). Clutch engagement at high RPM is bad for clutch wear and you really don't want to wear out that clutch. Clutch replacement is a major operation that requires splitting the tractor at the bell housing (e.g separating all electric, hydraulic, and mechanical connections between front and back).

Technique is not trivial. A clutch can last for decades or you can wear it out in a few days. Do not ride the clutch.

 

[JimR]

I purchased my DK45 in 2008 (new, but I think it was built in 2006). Starting off in the right gears (I think med range, 2nd gear) with the right throttle setting (2,000 RPM +/-) it would shudder something terrific!! I (certainly) noticed this in the dealer's lot well before negotiating a purchase price.

If I had a choice between 2 identical tractors, one with a smooth clutch, & one that chattered, sure I would have chosen the smooth operating one, but I had been tractor shopping for quite a while, and this was the only one I found that had everything I was looking for, without added things I didn't want, and in just the size / horsepower I was looking for; so I was willing to 'work around' the chattering clutch. I have driven several vehicles with chattering clutches, and have found I can (& do) develop 'techniques' to avoid (or minimize) the shudder.

The tractor had been setting on the lot for 2 years without selling (very likely because of the clutch), so the dealer seemed quite 'motivated' to sell; and I feel I got a very good deal. He never represented that the chatter would disappear after break-in (& I would have laughed at him if he did)

I have owned it now for 10 years & have 1,000 hrs on it. The chatter has now all but disappeared, I no longer 'baby' it, but if I try to make it shudder (just to see if it is still there!) , I have no problem "accomplishing the mission"! The clutch SLOWLY got better over maybe 300 / 400 hrs; certainly well past 'break-in' (& warranty).

I have never regretted buying it; but I certainly understand everyone's intolerance towards chattering clutches!

We have no real way of subjectively comparing my tractors "shudder" to your friend's tractor, so we may well be comparing apples to oranges.

My only real advice would be BEFORE you purchase, operate the tractor long enough to see what it would take to avoid the chatter; then decide if you are willing to do that for the rest of the time you own it. Do not believe any salesman that says the chatter will go away after break in!!!

A rusted flywheel would cause that to happen also. The rust will grab the clutch and there will be less slippage from a nice smooth surface of a clean flywheel. But to do it long after would make me really wonder what is going on. Maybe a warped flywheel or bad pressure plate.

 

[JimR]

I have nothing to say but good for my Kioti. It has been able to easily do everything I need out of it.

I did have a jumpy type situation with my clutch. I talked to the dealers mechanic. While letting out the clutch make sure you are not resting your other foot on the brake pedal. When the brake pedal is activated it puts the tractor in 4 wheel drive, with the clutching action and the machine going in/out of 4 wheel drive that is what was causing my issue. I now pay attention to this and have not had a problem.

I would not hesitate to buy another Kioti. Especially if it had a instructor/buddy seat. Hope Kioti is reading this.

That is very interesting that your tractor goes into FWD when you apply the brakes. That is an awesome safety feature when going down a steep hill because the rear end will lock up and you will slide in 2 WD like my NX4510HST does.

 

[cat fever]

cat fever, Im glad to hear that you like your RX6620. I was also looking at the RX series, although I figured for an extra 1k I'd spring for the extra ponies of the 7320. Was there a reason you opted for the 6620 instead?

At the time I bought it I only had 6 acres. It was more than enough tractor for that. I have since moved and own 31 acres now. Kind of wish I had gone with the 7320. I hay all the acreage, the 6620 does just fine.

 

[THEPARTYHOUND]

That is very interesting that your tractor goes into FWD when you apply the brakes. That is an awesome safety feature when going down a steep hill because the rear end will lock up and you will slide in 2 WD like my NX4510HST does.

I noticed that the 4wd light came on when I pushed the brakes in the 7320 I test drove as well. It is reassuring to hear this is supposed to happen as it almost seemed like some sort of electrical gremlin...the sales guy didn't have an answer for me when I asked about it. It does make sense though. I damned near dumped my current John Deere over when coming down a steep hill carrying a cow on the forks. She made me a little light in the rears, especially after I started down the hill, and I didnt have the front end engaged. The rears didnt have enough weight on the ground to slow me down, I shot down the hill then slowed at the bottom when I leveled out. Major pucker factor! Moral here is always have the front engaged when on any hills!

 

[THEPARTYHOUND]

At the time I bought it I only had 6 acres. It was more than enough tractor for that. I have since moved and own 31 acres now. Kind of wish I had gone with the 7320. I hay all the acreage, the 6620 does just fine.

View attachment 584809

The 6620 and 7320 are the same chassis aren't they? Same engine too I would bet, just different ECU mapping is my guess. I wonder how hard it would be to get your ECU overwritten with 7320 specs.

 

[cat fever]

I would think it's not that hard to do. My warranty is up in a day or two. I didn't want to do anything while under warranty. Honestly I have not lacked for power yet.