KB2375 assist

[Dodgeram]

Steve,
I did the same thing last night, i.e. "the book", and like you, am more confused.
The way I understand it, you remove the existing disconnects and hoses, install two new hoses, two disconnects, mounting bracket, valve and lever control.
Like I said before, I are really, really confused /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Tom

 

[DK35vince]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Vince
So after we have upgraded to rear remotes, what else do we need (and $$) to do Top and Tilt?
David )</font>

If you only have 1 set of rear remotes you can go with just the hydraulic top link. It is by far the one I use the most.
A CCM(Carter and Carter Machinery) top link cylinder/hoses and quick coupler was around $200.

If you have a 2nd set of remotes the tilt cylinder/hoses and quick couplers were also around $200.

 

[coasterez]

I have the remotes, as installed by Wallace. As I understand it, there is one lever for each set of two remote ports. For the backhoe, you only need two ports. So, a single lever is all that is needed ( and is all that I have). If you put in a four port (notice the bracket supports 4), you'd have two levers. These remotes are the way to go, for sure. Once you have them, you can use them for alot of implements, like a log splitter or power angle, without having to route hoses and fiddle with the hard-to-reach valve. Manuals does a poor job of explaining it. Almost like it is standard equipment.

 

[sodamo]

Thanks Vince

All in all, I'm finding this experience to be quite educational. Just as others, I've been quite confused /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif, but I sense the fog is lifting /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

I just know my wife would love for the tractor to have a set of rear remotes and Top and Tilt. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Just today, she pointed out where I need to do some grading for drainage - perfect job for the box blade but only if TNT equipped as it needs to match up to the area I did with bh /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I'll have to see the installation intructions, but I'm sure I can do it.

David

 

[Dodgeram]

I just returned from the garage.
It appears that removing the rear wheel and the fender cover would be the hardest part to install one of these contraptions.
Question..as I don't fully understand the hydraulic workings, when you remove the existing dirverter, will hydraulic fluid come gushing out? If so, then it appears that the 50 hour service would be the time to install the remotes, after the fluid has been drained.
As we now know the basic remote cost around $276, how much more would it be to get the two additional remotes so I can do it all at once?
Like Dave said, the fog is lifting due to the folks on TBN /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Tom

 

[wallace]

Tom, unless you plan on putting a top and tilt on you will not need the dual remotes you will only need the single remote set up.
You do not have to take the fender off.
You will not lose but a couple drips of fluid the fluid level is not that high.
I take the seat off and everything is right there, I can do the whole set up in about 45 mins.
You guys are getting scared and it is eaiser than changing you hydraulic fluid and filters.

 

[sodamo]

Rick
So we would need:
Kioti rear remote kit part number 322026 - list price $276.00

part # 322027 that is a kit to convert single valve to double valve - List is $375.00

And that would give the capability to add TNT (as per Vince?) AND no more turning of the silly valve?
Would this give us same setup as described in manual as Steverino posted?

Hmmm, I think I'm getting excited : /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif The scary part is the budget aspect. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Did you get my email address Rick?

David

 

[Dodgeram]

"You guys are getting scared and it is eaiser than changing you hydraulic fluid and filters"

As I'll be doing the 50 hour next month, that instills a lot of confidence /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
Thanks for the seat info Rick!
Tom

 

[Highbeam]

It's OK, I did my 50 hours service and it was no more difficult than changing the oil in a pickup truck.

A guy, if so inclined, could also utilize one pair of these remotes to open and close a grapple. You would have to reach down by the fender but the valve is there.

 

[dfkrug]

As Wallace says, don't take off fender or wheel. The instructions say so, but I don't know why. I have done 2 of these installs...the first took an hour, the second was 30-35 minutes and I am a slow worker. Unlike most remote valves, they lock into detent positions in both directions. The second valve, I do not have. I don't know why it is so much more money....$600 for the duals seems high.

For you guys who use the pwr byd hose kit and diverter, why don't you just connect your two hoses together when you remove your hoe? Then you don't have to change your diverter position at all.

 

[VictorW]

I'm with you. Remotes with their own control valves is pretty exciting as sodomo mentioned. Just think of the things that could be operated with these. If I would have know this setup existed, I would have never installed the "hose kit" to power the bh. It does power the bh fine but laying on the ground to turn the valve gets old and if you connect something else to the ports, that piece of equipment has to have its own open center valve.
It might be time to give Rick a call. By the way, the manual advised that the ports are 1/2 pt. Is that the same size as is on the bh or do they need changed? I know the loader quick connects look smaller. Also, where do you position the control lever to get constant flow to the ports for the bh? I think this change will be more useful. Anyone need a "hose kit"? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[VictorW]

I may be missing something here, but with the hose kit setup and without turning the diverter valve, the 3pt arms have no flow to give you lift. If you didn't need the 3pt arms, then the connecter hose would be a good idea.

 

[Dodgeram]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( For you guys who use the pwr byd hose kit and diverter, why don't you just connect your two hoses together when you remove your hoe? Then you don't have to change your diverter position at all. )</font>
I was wondering if that would work, I'm guessing you would need a 12-18" hose (to be able to get enough "bend") with Male disconnects on both ends?

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was wondering if that would work, I'm guessing you would need a 12-18" hose (to be able to get enough "bend") with Male disconnects on both ends? )</font>
I may be wrong, but one would have to be male, one female, and the QAs would have to be changed to match on any of the equipment one would then hook up with them.
It seems to me that should be the way they're done anyway from the PB as my hoses "bump" with any other hydro usage without anything hooked up to the PB hoses. Seems the fluid would like to complete the circuit.
John

 

[Dodgeram]

Thought about the two hose deal a bit more last night (Friday night and I'm thinking about tractors). I don't believe it will work.
When I turn the valve to get the fluid re-directed to the BH, it turns the flow off to the 3pt.
It seems that I'd still be required to turn the valve, even with the hoses.
As I certailny do not claim to be an expert in hydraulics, I could be wrong.
I'm still debating the rear remote. If I used the BH more it would certainly be worth it. I'll have to see what Mr. Rick comes back with.
Tom

 

[DrewL]

this will work if the 3-point hitch moves up and down with a backhoe on.............does it?


if so, a great simple idea to to remedy a quirky problem

 

[VictorW]

I just had my bh on today to repair the valve assembly. With the bh on and the diverter valve turned so the bh gets hydraulic fluid pressure, there is no lift for the 3pt arms. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
The connecter hose would work but no 3pt lift. It's a simple setup to get fluid to the bh being that you aren't using the 3pt at the same time but if you have to turn the valve as many times as I did today, the other valve would be much nicer.

 

[Dodgeram]

I agree with Victor. a jumper hose will not solve the problem.
CFO says I can get the remote. If Rick would quit spending all of his "free" time selling and delivering tractors /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif, I may be able to get a remote.
As this is not an earth shattering requirement, and I do want Rick around awhile, I am more than willing to wait.
Tom

 

[sodamo]

I suspect Rick may have several orders if he gets back and lets us know /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

David

 

[DrewL]

this thread has some legs doesn't it? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif