Just bought a F3060!

[arto98607]

Anyone shopping for a replacement seat for F3060 should be aware of the narrow bottom mounting width.
The mounting base is recessed several inches in the fender and not just any seat base will fit.

One solution would be to just replace the seat & reuse the spring suspension/mounting but most users would like air ride seat I think, which may also be available in narrow model?

Newer F models are different as far as I know.

See the blue arrows in my photo below.


Edit:

The seat suspension base that bolts to the framing is only 225 mm (~ 8 7/8") wide, and center to center mounting holes are 200 mm (~ 7 7/8") apart.
The base sits in a narrow recessed area in the fender as mentioned above.

 

[5030]

No grease fittings on the back ones at all but Delrin is self lubricating itself.

Keep in mind that the rear anti-scalp rollers while made from Delrin, also have a metal insert in them that rides on the through shaft. What I did, was I angle drilled them so the drilled hole located between the 2 inserts. I drilled a hole just large enough to use the 'needle greaser' attachment that fits on the end of my grease gun. That way the rollers and their metal inserts can be greased. Thought about drilling and tapping them for a zerk fitting but just a drilled hole and the needle greaser works as well. Besides, an angled zerk might be hard to access anyway.

 

[5030]

I found it somewhat amusing that in the shop manual, Kubota calls out the hinged space below the seat on my 2880 as a 'Globe Box' Gotta love those Japanese translations.

 

[5030]

Regarding your treadle pedal Working hard backwards? Up BEHIND the frame rail on the battery side, sort of between the battery and the back of the front tire, there is some linkage connected to the pedal. That seems to get sticky and I have been told to lube that with some kind of light lube like silicone or something.

This is located basically behind that zero fitting just in front of the battery. I think in the book it’s called "variable speed controll"? But that zero doesn’t seem to affect or improve the pedal travel.

Oddly my 2007 version doesn’t have this zerk, and for now the reverse motion of the pedal is quite free and easy.

Gonna check that out this week for sure and my 2880 came with a side discharge deck and I think I prefer it over a rear discharge, no special reason, just do.

I waited a long time to buy this one. The county fair board was going to get a new one 2 years ago but didn't have the funds. Same with last year but this year they did. How's that for patience? I got my dibs in on it right away, soon as I found out their intentions.

 

[Doug Vee]

While servicing my F3060 yesterday, I learned of another item to be on the lookout for:

I had been hearing an intermittent rattle behind me, especially when cold. I had the hood open right after I started it and noted the rattle again. The muffler was still pretty cool, so I put my gloved hand on it. The rattle immediately stopped. Hmmm, I thought, what the heck is going on with that? I shut it down, and got a light. After about a second I could tell what the problem was.

Just for grins, I went to the Messicks parts site....$549. Well, that WAS fun. It didn't look like a good project for my old stick welder, so took it over to the brother in law's for a little MIG love. Due to my lack of MIG experience, I'm not including that picture, but suffice to say, the repair looks like it will be successful.

Though the muffler cracked at sometime before 2700 hours, it was pretty cool that the hardware that held it on was well designed. Nuts were welded to the brackets, and the bolts did not protrude past the face of the nuts, so everything came apart with no drama (see first picture). Also, the muffler was built of pretty heavy gauge material, so again, no drama to weld.

So, now gotta go mow.

Doug

 

[Steelsoldiers]

While servicing my F3060 yesterday, I learned of another item to be on the lookout for:

View attachment 867917View attachment 867918
I had been hearing an intermittent rattle behind me, especially when cold. I had the hood open right after I started it and noted the rattle again. The muffler was still pretty cool, so I put my gloved hand on it. The rattle immediately stopped. Hmmm, I thought, what the heck is going on with that? I shut it down, and got a light. After about a second I could tell what the problem was.

Just for grins, I went to the Messicks parts site....$549. Well, that WAS fun. It didn't look like a good project for my old stick welder, so took it over to the brother in law's for a little MIG love. Due to my lack of MIG experience, I'm not including that picture, but suffice to say, the repair looks like it will be successful.

Though the muffler cracked at sometime before 2700 hours, it was pretty cool that the hardware that held it on was well designed. Nuts were welded to the brackets, and the bolts did not protrude past the face of the nuts, so everything came apart with no drama (see first picture). Also, the muffler was built of pretty heavy gauge material, so again, no drama to weld.

So, now gotta go mow.

Doug

Good catch and good fix!

 

[5030]

While servicing my F3060 yesterday, I learned of another item to be on the lookout for:

View attachment 867917View attachment 867918
I had been hearing an intermittent rattle behind me, especially when cold. I had the hood open right after I started it and noted the rattle again. The muffler was still pretty cool, so I put my gloved hand on it. The rattle immediately stopped. Hmmm, I thought, what the heck is going on with that? I shut it down, and got a light. After about a second I could tell what the problem was.

Just for grins, I went to the Messicks parts site....$549. Well, that WAS fun. It didn't look like a good project for my old stick welder, so took it over to the brother in law's for a little MIG love. Due to my lack of MIG experience, I'm not including that picture, but suffice to say, the repair looks like it will be successful.

Though the muffler cracked at sometime before 2700 hours, it was pretty cool that the hardware that held it on was well designed. Nuts were welded to the brackets, and the bolts did not protrude past the face of the nuts, so everything came apart with no drama (see first picture). Also, the muffler was built of pretty heavy gauge material, so again, no drama to weld.

So, now gotta go mow.

Doug

The learning curve on MIG welding is pretty flat actually and why weldors (me included) refer to MIG as the glue gun of welding. Clean it, fit it up and Glue Gun it, preferably with solid wire and inert gas.

Finally, turn up your base idle to the point where the motor runs smoothly. It's the shaking at idle that caused the fracture.

 

[5030]

After it's welded, take a wire brush to the entire muffler and paint it with high temperature flat black stove paint and make it pretty again...

 

[Doug Vee]

The learning curve on MIG welding is pretty flat actually and why weldors (me included) refer to MIG as the glue gun of welding. Clean it, fit it up and Glue Gun it, preferably with solid wire and inert gas.

Finally, turn up your base idle to the point where the motor runs smoothly. It's the shaking at idle that caused the fracture.

5030,

You're right, the MIG does have a kind of "glue gun" vibe! Concerning the base idle, I have not felt that it is idling that low, but I will check into it with an open mind and see what transpires.

Thanks,
Doug

 

[5030]

5030,

You're right, the MIG does have a kind of "glue gun" vibe! Concerning the base idle, I have not felt that it is idling that low, but I will check into it with an open mind and see what transpires.

Thanks,
Doug

I'm AWS TIG certified and that is my favorite process but, I use MIG for non alloy welding all the time because on mild steel, it's quick and really needs little skill to use properly, plus I can MIG weld is high amperage spray arc transfer on thick mild steel but it has to be done in the shop. I also own a Lincoln Ranger engine drive and stick weld outside but of course the end result is not as pretty. I burn a lot of solid core wire. Like I said, not much skill needed with a glue gun and inert gas, You get the voltage / amperage and wire feed set correctly, just a matter of lowering your hood and positioning the nozzle correctly and welding.

The adjustment screw for the base idle is the vertical one below the throttle cam. The horizontal adjustment screw parallel to the throttle linkage sets the maximum RPM at full throttle. It usually has a small lead disc with safety wire on it.