Just bought a B2400–wanna make it right

[blivy]

Just bought a 1998 B2400 with an FEL.
only had 201 hours when I bought it yesterday and has been kept inside it’s entire life.
The guy I bought it from got it with almost no hours and in pristine condition when he bought his house a year or so ago

However, he wasn’t very mechanically inclined and put some hard hours in it clearing his backyard which resulted in a few dings and scrapes.

Wanted to create this thread for two reasons: 1) to show off my new tractor and 2) show all the issues I’ve discovered so far and hopefully get advice on how to repair them from the great folks here.

Some background on me. This is my first tractor (and first experience with hydraulics and Diesel engines) but I am pretty mechanically inclined. Have a couple of old Gravely walk behinds I work on and use often, a saw mill whose Kohler engine I had to resurrect, and I’ve rebuilt an old cx500 motorcycle.

my primary reason for wanting a tractor was to help maintain my long gravel drive. I’d also like it help with the saw mill and to assist with storm cleanup.
First pics below are just overview.

Next two are pics of right and left side of rear transmission. There seem to be 2 rods that bend into 2 linkages. Looks like they should have some kind of hair or clevis pin to keep them in? Is that right? Anyone know what these control?

the next is of the clip that should hold the upper arm on the 3pt hitch. Mine seems to only hold the arm up long enough to make me think it’s okay to take a close look at the pto. Luckily only bruised pride ensued. Is there a trick to this? (You’ll also see I’m missing the warning sign on the back).

Next pic is of a hydraulic leak under the seat at a banjo bolt (I think). Sprays out very steadily. Definitely top priority.
you’ll also see that there’s another linkage (pic after) near that same banjo bolt (under seat right side) that MAY be missing a hair pin? Anyone know for sure?

Final pic is of the linkage to the emergency break that keeps popping loose. does it just need a hair pin or are there washers or spacers missing?

In any case I’d love to know everyone’s thoughts on these issues and any advice you may have for a new tractor owner
thanks!
B

 

[JWR]

Geeze -- not sure where to start. Easy one first: the 5th photo with the circle drawn around the wire-like thing hanging there -- Yes, that is intended to hold up the top link. Terminology is "top link" not upper arm. We all speak very correctly here ....and if you believe that I also sell Brooklyn Bridges.
That heavy wire-like thingy is just bent slightly out of original shape. It should be bent back into a size of opening that will cause the top link to snap into it and stay put wiothout a heck of a lot of force to either snap it in place or to pull the top linkl free from it. Just bend to suit.


That B2400 is a great find if it really has only 200 hrs. It has the same HP with a 3cyl as my B2150's have with their 4cyl diesels. Your's is newer.

Second, it will be easier to work on than those old Gravelys!
This is not a tractor one would think of for maintaining a long gravel driveway... but then it beats a rake and shovel. That front end loader (FEL) will be the handiest tool you ever laid your hands on.
At age 23 there will be a lot of things to do assuming you know the prior owner did not or probably did not do them. Start by changing the oil, filter, and checking the belts. Fuel filters for sure. But don't drain so much fuel in doing that that you have to prime the engine to get it started.

I have a B2150 that had 220hrs on it when I got it in 1993 and it is just a total joy. I had to add an FEL which you fortunately already have.
The cheapest/easiest thing you can do for grading that driveway is about a 6ft 3pt hitch mounted blade. These can be found all over the place used for very few dollars -- like $100 or so. With the combo of the FEL in front and the grader blade in back you can do all sorts of gravel drive improvements. Note that most of those blades are made to reverse and go either way. That combo will also be good if it ever snows down there.
I'm not able to follow your comments about 2 rods bending into 2 linkages.
I'd give the thing a good pressure washing top and bottom and then see what all is of interest.

Obviously you LEAP onto that spraying fluid issue first!! I believe the pict with the yellow arrow is pointing to the high pressure hydraulic line. Most likely it simply needs tightened to stop the spray BUT no one out here can tell whether you have a broken/split open line or connector or who knows what. Try snugging what looks like a bolt head and see if the spray stops or at least changes. Inspect that area with a fine tooth comb and see if you can see the real origin of the spray. It pretty much has to be hydraulic fluid which is not much but very thin oil. Best use the stuff Kubota sells at twice the price of Tractor Supply at least until you get comfy with the whole rig. Of course I mean topping off the hydraulic fluid once you stop the leak/spray.

The last picture looks like the teeth on the lever you move in order to lock the brakes "on" having pressed the pedal down firmly. I'm not sure what that is but to my knowledge there is no such thing as an "emergency brake" on these tractors. I have 3 B2150s and one BX2200. By the way, my BX2200 has a single brake pedal that is largely a joke and worthless. The B2150's have very good serious brakes with dual pedals for left and right rear brakes.

Almost forgot: BE SURE to find the Owners Manual if you did not get one with the tractor. It is about 3/8" thick or so and will be VERY hgelpful to your ownership...if not found, they can be had on-line via eBay, etc. Dealer might even be able to order one for you.

Not sure what you have in mind about "storm cleanup" but if it involves a lot of limbs and tree parts you have too small a machine for much of that. However, these little machines are noted for doing amazing things for their size. If you do much of that sort of thing (cleaning up limbs and debris) the bucket is a big help BUT you need a grapple (chomping down teeth for a crude description.) Look up grapple under skid steer attachments or tractor accessories. That grabbing action requires a "third function" hydraulic circuit and control valve. Your B2400 is very unlikely to have that... but they can be added. I do not know of a grapple sold for the B2400 or any of the small Kubotas but they can for sure be fabricated/adapted. Maybe that's something for "later" or your long range plans. For larger tractors something called "4-in-1 buckets" are sold for the FEL that have a clamshell structure and that requires the "third function" hydraulics just as a grapple bucket does. Look up 4-in-1 buckets and you can see from the spec sheets and pictures what they are like. VERY useful tools that allow you to use the FEL bucket normally most of the time and then open it up to grab logs or debris as needed. I have a large one on a very different tractor that I added "teeth" to in order to grasp limbs, etc. a lot better.

This is an endless little world and one that you will probably enjoy. Do keep us peanut gallery people updated on what you do and how it goes. Good luck.


You will find tractordata.com to be of use I think for overview info about virtually any/all tractors including yours.

 

[blivy]

thanks jwr!
Yep. Hoping to be able to hop on all the maintenance tonight and after work this week. I got a manual for both it and the loader and have read through most of them.
mill keep y’all posted on progress.
And re “emergency brake”. Probably should have called it parking brake. I probably use interchange those terms incorrectly.

 

[Grandad4]

You have a really nice little tractor there! I can't improve on JWR's sound advice but only thought to add a bit of caution about that hydraulic fluid. When the tractor is running the hyd fluid circulates under pressure somewhere around 2,500-2,900 psi, not something you want spraying on yourself for sure. Be really careful working around those lines and hoses as you close up whatever is dripping.
Good luck with it and let us know of your progress!

 

[blivy]

You have a really nice little tractor there! I can't improve on JWR's sound advice but only thought to add a bit of caution about that hydraulic fluid. When the tractor is running the hyd fluid circulates under pressure somewhere around 2,500-2,900 psi, not something you want spraying on yourself for sure. Be really careful working around those lines and hoses as you close up whatever is dripping.
Good luck with it and let us know of your progress!

Good advice. Will do.

 

[ljjhouser]

Good info from JWR. Some suggestions. If you have a hydraulic leak, when looking for it, Keep hands away from it. The pressure from a pin leak or crack can easily pierce skin. (if that is a high pressure line) I think I would spend a little cleaning it up. Then I think I would want to know it service has been maintained on it. That is why a manual is important. Check the hydraulic oil used with the transmission. Is it clear. It should be almost hard to see on the dipstick. Are all pins greased - if not, do that. The manual will tell you how and when to do all this. But make sure everything is in order one step at a time. I think you may find a manual online. But I know you can order one from Amazon or Messicks tractor. Check to see if the rear tires have ballast - liquid. If so, what is it - water, windshield washer fluid, look brown like beet juice, smell like alcohol (it is methonal) or is it calcium cl. It is important to know information about your new tractor. Do not assume it is up to specs on maintenance. Make sure. Most of these are low cost and something you can do yourself. But they will make the difference between having a lifetime tractor or trouble. Congratulations on your purchase. Best Wishes, Larry

 

[etpm]

Just bought a 1998 B2400 with an FEL.
only had 201 hours when I bought it yesterday and has been kept inside it’s entire life.
The guy I bought it from got it with almost no hours and in pristine condition when he bought his house a year or so ago

However, he wasn’t very mechanically inclined and put some hard hours in it clearing his backyard which resulted in a few dings and scrapes.

Wanted to create this thread for two reasons: 1) to show off my new tractor and 2) show all the issues I’ve discovered so far and hopefully get advice on how to repair them from the great folks here.

Some background on me. This is my first tractor (and first experience with hydraulics and Diesel engines) but I am pretty mechanically inclined. Have a couple of old Gravely walk behinds I work on and use often, a saw mill whose Kohler engine I had to resurrect, and I’ve rebuilt an old cx500 motorcycle.

my primary reason for wanting a tractor was to help maintain my long gravel drive. I’d also like it help with the saw mill and to assist with storm cleanup.
First pics below are just overview.

Next two are pics of right and left side of rear transmission. There seem to be 2 rods that bend into 2 linkages. Looks like they should have some kind of hair or clevis pin to keep them in? Is that right? Anyone know what these control?

the next is of the clip that should hold the upper arm on the 3pt hitch. Mine seems to only hold the arm up long enough to make me think it’s okay to take a close look at the pto. Luckily only bruised pride ensued. Is there a trick to this? (You’ll also see I’m missing the warning sign on the back).

Next pic is of a hydraulic leak under the seat at a banjo bolt (I think). Sprays out very steadily. Definitely top priority.
you’ll also see that there’s another linkage (pic after) near that same banjo bolt (under seat right side) that MAY be missing a hair pin? Anyone know for sure?

Final pic is of the linkage to the emergency break that keeps popping loose. does it just need a hair pin or are there washers or spacers missing?

In any case I’d love to know everyone’s thoughts on these issues and any advice you may have for a new tractor owner
thanks!
B

Please make sure that you NEVER let that leak spray onto your body. If it sprays with sufficient force the oil can be injected into your body. This is a bad thing. I know a woman who injected plain water into her foot from a pressure washer and the docs were very worried about her having unrepairable tissue damage and infection. Hydraulic oil is much worse.
Eric

 

[blivy]

Good info from JWR. Some suggestions. If you have a hydraulic leak, when looking for it, Keep hands away from it. The pressure from a pin leak or crack can easily pierce skin. (if that is a high pressure line) I think I would spend a little cleaning it up. Then I think I would want to know it service has been maintained on it. That is why a manual is important. Check the hydraulic oil used with the transmission. Is it clear. It should be almost hard to see on the dipstick. Are all pins greased - if not, do that. The manual will tell you how and when to do all this. But make sure everything is in order one step at a time. I think you may find a manual online. But I know you can order one from Amazon or Messicks tractor. Check to see if the rear tires have ballast - liquid. If so, what is it - water, windshield washer fluid, look brown like beet juice, smell like alcohol (it is methonal) or is it calcium cl. It is important to know information about your new tractor. Do not assume it is up to specs on maintenance. Make sure. Most of these are low cost and something you can do yourself. But they will make the difference between having a lifetime tractor or trouble. Congratulations on your purchase. Best Wishes, Larry

Larry— just downloaded the WSM for my tractor. Much better than the owners manual I have (way more detail).
plan to go through its checklists and do everything called for up to and including the 200 hour maintenance.
It might cost me a bit but after spending several thousand on a tractor will pay dividends I’m sure.

 

[blivy]

Couple of updates
1) went through and put cotter pins in several linkages that I saw were missing them (parking brake, regular brake rod at rear, clutch pedal rod at the rear linkage…).
some of the rods had come clean off the linkages (parking brake and clutch) so they are all on now.
2) pulled of leaking hydraulic banjo bolt. Saw some scoring on the washers. I’ve been told on another site that these need to be BSP copper washers. Does anyone know if that’s the case? Or could I just hear these up and reuse? (See first pic)
3) also noticed that the left arm in my 3pt hitch is bent and the threads have been stripped—I think it’s beyond my ability to repair. Anyone have a good source for replacements? (2nd pic)
4) found this bolt just below my rear pto that is loose and bent. Can anyone tell me what this was for?
(last pic)

Thanks again!
B

 

[Vigo327]

Not sure on whether the washer NEEDS to be bsp but i know you can get a big assortment of copper sealings rings cheaply on Amazon. I bought an assortment a while back and will probably never run out.

The bent thing with thread damage is used to tighten the 3pt arms inwards, taking side-to-side slack out of the 3pt so attachments can't swing/bang back and forth. Leaving it as is would just mean you couldn't shorten that link any more, but i doubt it would actually fail. I'm not sure what they're called when used in that function right there but generically it is a turnbuckle.

The bolt in the last pic probably doesn't belong there and may have just been used as a hitch pin stuck through some clevis hitch like a yard cart. Hard to tell without knowing how long it is on the other side.