Just another UDT oil question.

[fried1765]

I'll throw in here.

I tried another oil to save some money. Got a big snow storm followed by temps in the teens. FEL was so weak and sluggish it took me forever to clear the snow. BH seems down on curling power and slower swing, even when warm out.

Went back to Kubota fluid, huge improvement.

Very informative!
Thank you for this post!

 

[pmmully]

Doubtful.

Were Kubota to do that (require Kubota branded UDT or SUDT), they would be in violation of US Federal Law: 15 U.S. Code § 2302(c) specifically - the particular provision of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, which prohibits the requirement a "supplier" (aka Kubota) of using "tie-in" products to maintain a warranty of a consumer product:

Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act

The only way they could get away with doing so is if they were willing to provide the UDT ... FOR FREE ... at no cost to the consumer.

But if they are willing to do that, I'd certainly be happy to take them up on the offer ...

Good to know... while my machine is "significantly" out of warranty... it is still good to know!

 

[pmmully]

I'll throw in here.

I tried another oil to save some money. Got a big snow storm followed by temps in the teens. FEL was so weak and sluggish it took me forever to clear the snow. BH seems down on curling power and slower swing, even when warm out.

Went back to Kubota fluid, huge improvement.

There seems to be a lot of consistency on other forums/posts regarding your report. Especially in the cold.

What sucks is these combined sump models with everything connected certainly allow you to get shafted on a leak of one component. I would so much rather have a separate gig for drive and hydraulics, but the 'Botas are tough creatures for sure. If you got a leaky unit, it can become pretty expensive. Are other oils just as good, perhaps even better,... maybe? It all comes down to the additives.

Actually, the 400-hour service is pretty cheap money. Right now, my calculations are ~$12/hour of mechanical overhead per hour. That is about 25% high on purpose to account for "ahh sheet" moments like leaks, etc. My numbers are based on all Kubota parts and oil, and on the maintenance schedule in the user manual. That does not include fuel. The actual number is $3/hour for all services/filters/oils through 400 hours, broken down by percentage into 100-hour increments. The cost of replacement for 100% loss is $6.50/hour for 10k hours. So you can see where I get my $12. That is real, no self-delusion stuff.

Now, that does not include damage, nor the so-very-important valve adjustment at 800 hours for flat tappet diesel engines. So if you can not do this service yourself, add in a few hours of shop time here and there.

I actually have a bud that deludes himself all the time. Claims his outboard gets BETTER fuel burn on the boat in the ocean versus what the reported usage is in a test tank by the manufacturer. I tell him he has the "Golden Motor", craps out dollar bills. He is so full of kaka.

 

[Hoobie]

I like your reasoning and self honesty. I use a similar approach but. Some guys feel once the tractor is paid for that cost doesn't count.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'll throw in here.

I tried another oil to save some money. Got a big snow storm followed by temps in the teens. FEL was so weak and sluggish it took me forever to clear the snow. BH seems down on curling power and slower swing, even when warm out.

Went back to Kubota fluid, huge improvement.

You may have collapsed a filter element. Fluid change probably changed out the damaged filter.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I worked as mechanic at Kubota. I did change it for people. But I put the old in a bucket and took it home and re used it. Still going no problems. That's a non foaming oil is why it's expensive. Any cheaper stuff won't work. Kubota has patent on that fluid. We run two Kubota skid steers clearing land. Our new John Deere burnt to the ground because it couldn't handle the heat. But they don't use UDT. If its under warranty I would use Kubota fluid because they can check and tell if you have agri pro, farm buddy, or slick plow in it. Valvoline makes a replacement but like I said, if its under warranty they can deny a claim if it's not Kubota fluid. The Kubota fluid also doesnt create solids when moisture gets in it. Solids stop things up. I've seen one that the guy was cutting grass and hit a pipe that was a clothes line pole. Center of rear axle to seat, busted entire back off tractor. Imagine them denying your warranty on that deal. If its in warranty period make sure to use their fluid or even better leave their fluid in it and just pretend you changed it.

 

[rScotty]

I think the 50 hour oil/filter change is important and especially for those with HST. I don't know what Kubota recommends for the various hours on all their products, but as a mechanic I can tell you that it is at the first low hour oil change where you can expect to see a lot more metallic wear particles.

Use the best oil you can buy for a couple of reasons. One is the specific additives and the other is that the more expensive oils stand up to heat and foaming more.

Yes, that oil is expensive. So are tractors. The oil itself is probably still good if you could get the wear particles out. Typical filters don't filter out the smaller particles, but there are filtration methods that do. I sure hate throwing it away.

Some argue that the expensive oil is more important at low hours and when doing heavy work in the summer because both of these are when you see lots of hydraulic heat. To that I would add the importance of a multiweight oil if you do wintertime work.
rScotty