Joystick

[dieselscout80]

I guess they are just tight and being behind the loader mount mast only lessons have a bit of leverage.

I’m thinking I may have to take the right floor board off and then take the line to the vice for removing the couplers.

 

[oldnslo]

If loctite warming the connection may help soften the loctite. 200 - 250 degrees F should soften most loctite varieties. That temp shouldn’t hurt the oil either. Just don’t be stupid like me and get it broke loose and then grab it to spin it off by hand

 

[dieselscout80]

Does this look like the right size of couplers? My loader AG couplers look smaller than my 1/2” AG couplers for my remote valve.

https://a.co/d/frxzJEz

I need two pair anyway for a grapple.

 

[Sportsman762]

Should I look at getting both the male and female versions of the coupler or just the female side?

I would replace male and female sides.

Does this look like the right size of couplers? My loader AG couplers look smaller than my 1/2” AG couplers for my remote valve.

https://a.co/d/frxzJEz

I need two pair anyway for a grapple.

I suspect they are 1/2" ag. Here is a good link to an ID guide

https://summit-hydraulics.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Quick-Coupler-Identifiaction-Chart-min.pdf

couplers with quality units from Parker, Safeway, Faster, or Dixon before messing with the valve

The link you have is not a known quality coupler. They are cheap for a reason. For the cost I would buy quality so you do not introduce additional problems. Below is a link for Parker 1/2" body 1/2" NPT connect under pressure, poppet style couplers.

4000 SERIES POPPET VALVE QUICK COUPLER WITH TIP - 1/2" BODY x 1/2" NPT - VISI-PACK CLAMSHELL

qualityfarmsupply.com

For the grapple, here is the mounting bracket for the above couplers.

DOUBLE BREAKAWAY CLAMP FOR STANDARD BODY QUICK COUPLERS

qualityfarmsupply.com

Here are the dust plugs for the grapple couplers.

1/2" DUST PLUG - BLACK RUBBER - 2 PACK

qualityfarmsupply.com

Hope this helps.

 

[dieselscout80]

Sorry I was more referring to the size I’m having a hard time finding the male end for New Holland version (COUPLING 3/8" NPTF) Part# 9846343.

I will look at the sites you mentioned to see what they have.

 

[dieselscout80]

I found them on Tractor Supply and they are Pioneer brand and they are a good price.

 

[Sportsman762]

I found them on Tractor Supply and they are Pioneer brand and they are a good price.

Sounds good, sorry if I came across as harsh. I am Leary of the off brand couplers based off of some bad experiences.

 

[dieselscout80]

Sounds good, sorry if I came across as harsh. I am Leary of the off brand couplers based off of some bad experiences.

You didn’t I just wasn’t clear and didn’t have a lot of time to find the NH version.

I’m glad I looked at TSC online as the local store had only 1/2” couplers and only one set.

 

[dieselscout80]

Well swapping out both (both sides of each too) the couplers on circuit that raises and lowers the loader arms did NOT fix it.

It still only lowers when in the float position and still creeps up in the neutral (no movement position) at the same rate as when this started happening.

So I guess the next thing is to either rebuild the loader valve or replace it.

 

[oldnslo]

Only thing semi-rebuildable on the valve would be the centering spring and detent assembly. Not really anything else to rebuild in the valve since the spool is a metal to metal fit in the bore.

 

[dieselscout80]

Only thing semi-rebuildable on the valve would be the centering spring and detent assembly. Not really anything else to rebuild in the valve since the spool is a metal to metal fit in the bore.

That’s the thing the valve’s movement and detents feel just like they always have felt.

I am leaning toward just replacing it with a new one.

 

[oldnslo]

Certainly not a normal run of the mill failure that you are experiencing. If I remember correctly you swapped the lines from raise / lower to the curl / dump spool and then the loader raised and lowered but now curl / dump didn’t work so it certainly points to the lift / lower spool being the problem.

Not sure what else to try at this point.

 

[dieselscout80]

My service manual has the loader valve in the hydraulic section.

The attached pictures show the relevant flow diagrams for the positions not working and the parts breakdown.

It looks like in the first two flow diagrams the oil flow is not flowing properly as it is only lowering in the float position.

Also in the last flow picture (bucket control) oil in going to lift cylinders rather than stopping B on the lift spool (top one listed as #1).

I wonder if the load check valve listed in bucket control could be messed up (lower right of diagram). But it looks it’s part of the spool #1.

 

[oldnslo]

Load checks are typically separate from the spool and usually just prevent oil flowing from the load back into the pressure port. Normally if one fails it will allow the load to drop when trying to raise vs preventing it from lowering.

Also looks like your valve is a series parallel design where return flow from raise lower is directed back into the curl - dump circuit so you can lift and dump or lower and curl simultaneously. Did your loader do that before it quit working?

 

[dieselscout80]

Load checks are typically separate from the spool and usually just prevent oil flowing from the load back into the pressure port. Normally if one fails it will allow the load to drop when trying to raise vs preventing it from lowering.

Also looks like your valve is a series parallel design where return flow from raise lower is directed back into the curl - dump circuit so you can lift and dump or lower and curl simultaneously. Did your loader do that before it quit working?

Yes it would lift and curl before this happened.

I forgot a detail that happened a year or two ago. I was lifting a load and it would drop slightly before lifting.

 

[oldnslo]

Yes it would lift and curl before this happened.

I forgot a detail that happened a year or two ago. I was lifting a load and it would drop slightly before lifting.

That might indicate a load check had a piece of crap in it or was not seated correctly. Did this correct itself or was it still dropping some before lifting a load?

Note: I edited my prior post possibly while you were replying so may be double check.

 

[dieselscout80]

That might indicate a load check had a piece of crap in it or was not seated correctly. Did this correct itself or was it still dropping some before lifting a load?

Note: I edited my prior post possibly while you were replying so may be double check.

It kinda kept doing on that day (more than a year ago), but it didn’t keep doing it.

 

[oldnslo]

Diesel
In studying the valve Assembly on img 1158 you posted the centering mechanism item 9 screws into the end of the spool. If this has worked loose and backed out a turn or two it could potentially allow lift to drift up vs being centered and prevent lowering since spool would no longer be traveling to correct distance.

If you decide to take this apart removing cover item 2 may or most likely will allow item 6 & 8 to fall out.

 

[dieselscout80]

Diesel
In studying the valve Assembly on img 1158 you posted the centering mechanism item 9 screws into the end of the spool. If this has worked loose and backed out a turn or two it could potentially allow lift to drift up vs being centered and prevent lowering since spool would no longer be traveling to correct distance.

If you decide to take this apart removing cover item 2 may or most likely will allow item 6 & 8 to fall out.

I like your suggestion.

Background my joystick was working loose when I first got the tractor. I finally got it stopped by adding a locknut to the bottom of the shaft.

So it may have vibrated #9 loose and be worth checking.

It will probably require removing the whole valve to get to #2 due to the hard lines.

 

[oldnslo]

If you can access the end of the valve the joystick connects to you could possibly measure the spool travel from spring position to fully pulled in that direction for both the lift and curl functions. You would need to measure accurately since may only be looking at 0.03 to 0.05 inches difference (possibly more) in start position or movement amount.

If this thought of #9 working loose is correct there still should be a position on lower that works but it might be when you are pushing into detent so kind of jumps past that spot. I could also be wrong on that thought.