John Deere welder....well, sort of

[Volfandt]

This is a closer shot. The adj bracket came off of a late 70's Bronco while the alt is off of a Buick. Talk about your integration /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
The weight of the rig keeps tension on the belt. The adj bracket is more for stability than adjusting.

 

[Volfandt]

A front shot. Those welding lead quick connects ran me $10 apiece! I had the weatherproof outlet box laying around and the mounting plate is for a later model Wheelhorse seat mount I got off of ebay. Since it wouldn't fit my 856 it's made a very nice front mount platform /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I've got some 15 amp rated rheostats coming and I'm going to use one to adj the field voltage to control the output. I'm also looking for a cheap, err ahhh, inexpensive 0 - 150 volt DC voltmeter too.

I've run a drill, hand grinder, sawsall, electric hedge clippers and std light bulbs off of it.

 

[Volfandt]

Left side shot. Once my sorry welding skills improve, I may add some sort of brackets to hold the leads.
I added the later model Wheelhorse front quick-attach mount for projects like this. I can easily mount or dismount the entire rig in a minute or so without useing any tools. When I originally wired in the head lights I used barrel type connectors so I could easily unplug the lights whenever I removed the hood. Those same barrel connectors is where I picked up the 12vDC for my field input. I may have to add an ammeter to the tractor to see what kind of draw I'm putting on the tractors starter/generator. It's seems to be handling it OK though.
Thanks for posting your project Guidster. I had often thought of useing an alt for an AC generator but modifying one to be a small stick welder was new to me and is an OUTSTANDING idea /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Volfandt

 

[tommu56]

does any one have prints on how to wire these up?
I would think you would have to power field to get the voltage out of the alternator?

 

[Volfandt]

Do a google search on alternator welder and you'll get all kinds of free instructions. There are also some detailed instructions on ebay for a fee.

There are several techniques rangeing from very easy with little modification to more indepth useing higher power diodes and changing the stators wireing.

You do need 12vDC to excite the rotor.
Basically you remove the regulator and modify the field connection and isolate it from frame ground.

Volfandt

 

[HomeBrew2]

Great job!!!

 

[Guidster]

I am glad to see that you got your welder up and running--it looks great! What I am focused on is a solid, reliable way to control the weld output without having to adjust the speed of the engine and alternator. When the speed is reduced, output does come down, but the frequency of the output does as well. Therefore, I have been working on a good way to alter the output using a constant engine speed and have had great success with 2 designs--one simple and one complex. I am going to put my new ebay o-scope to the test this weekend and should have some results to report next week. I also hope that I can find the time to get mine mounted on my tractor this weekend as the weather is cooling off and I have some welding in the field I need to do and my little JD riding mower will not make it out there!

 

[Volfandt]

Good luck on the solution your seeking. I've come up with an ultra-simple control. I've put a 0 to 10 ohm 3 amp rheostat in series with the field input. At approx 3600 RPM I can vary the output voltage from a minimum of around 40vDC all the way up to 130vDC. I don't have an ammeter on it but I'd say the current adjusts along with the voltage. As for the cycles, I doubt they hold constant. You figure out how to keep a constant frequency at differening voltages d I'll be interested in that as I still have thoughts on makeing an AC generator to be powered off the Wheel Horse in the same way the welder is.

In the pic is a screw terminal strip I added to clean up the wireing, the 10 amp fuse to protect the tractors electrics and the 0 - 10 ohm rheostat to control of the alt's output. I hope to add a DC voltmeter.

 

[Volfandt]

A front shot.

My welding is terrible. I'm experimenting on which setting is good with which rod and on which metal/thickness.

I've already figured out that the setting is too high when I burn through the metal /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

It's getting that "right" setting where that nice flowing bead result's. I've yet too find it yet /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Volfandt

 

[Firehawk]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I am glad to see that you got your welder up and running--it looks great! What I am focused on is a solid, reliable way to control the weld output without having to adjust the speed of the engine and alternator. When the speed is reduced, output does come down, but the frequency of the output does as well. Therefore, I have been working on a good way to alter the output using a constant engine speed and have had great success with 2 designs--one simple and one complex. I am going to put my new ebay o-scope to the test this weekend and should have some results to report next week. I also hope that I can find the time to get mine mounted on my tractor this weekend as the weather is cooling off and I have some welding in the field I need to do and my little JD riding mower will not make it out there! )</font>

I was just wondering if you could give us more info now. Thanks