John Deere 3038

   / John Deere 3038 #1  

Scot D.

New member
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Jan 11, 2009
Messages
8
The time has finally come to buy a tractor. I have need of a tractor for bush hogging, planting food plots, loader work, etc. I started looking at used tractors and have decided to buy new. I have looked at the Kubota l3400 but prefer to buy a john deere. I have looking at the 3320, 3520, 4105 models (I want a hydro), I liked the pricing on 4105 but it lacks a cruise control. The 3320 and 3520 are priced much higher than the kubota. (although I agree the ehydro, electric options vs mechanicl and overall styting are much nicer).

The dealer advised today the 3038 is the closest comparison to the Kubota l3400. I am going to drive one in the morning. Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on this machine. I have been quoted 18500 for the tractor and a 305 loader including cruise control, a hood guard, rear drawbar, r4 tires.
 
   / John Deere 3038 #2  
I think there are some posts on these E machines. A couple of downsides I see are only one brake pedal and 2 range HST. I've never seen one but I couldn't live without differential braking for my work.
 
   / John Deere 3038 #3  
They also have rigid mounted loaders that are NOT removable without tools,some like that...and some don't.
 
   / John Deere 3038
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Going from memory I believe the Kubota has only one brake pedal as well, also a rigid loader (not concerned about the loader as I can always take off the bucket and would probably just leave it on anyways). Would I miss the third range? (the kubota does have same). The 3520 is an extremely nice machine but about 5k more. Worth the extra money?
 
   / John Deere 3038
  • Thread Starter
#5  
One other issue is the 3038 has fixed rops and will be close to fitting in my garage. Anyone have experience have a local welder cut them and turn them into folding rops?
 
   / John Deere 3038 #6  
One other issue is the 3038 has fixed rops and will be close to fitting in my garage. Anyone have experience have a local welder cut them and turn them into folding rops?

That could be tricky due to liability concerns, most shops probably would NOT modify a ROPS.
 
   / John Deere 3038 #7  
One other issue is the 3038 has fixed rops and will be close to fitting in my garage. Anyone have experience have a local welder cut them and turn them into folding rops?

Get the tractor that has which ever kind of ROPS you want, don't modify it in anyway. When it come's to a life or death situation, you don't want to have any "if's" as to whether it's going to function properly or not.

Also, what made you steer away from your original quest of a used tractor? I'm sure you could easily find a 1 or 2 year old 3520 in great shape for the same price as your 3038.
 
   / John Deere 3038
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I was originally going to buy a used tractor for 10k or less and pay cash. I decided if I used the cash to pay off my truck I would take the truck payment and buy a new tractor. I am afraid of buying someone elses troubles (I know someone who bought used and has had a lot of problems) I like the idea of a warranty and knowing all maintenance/fluid changes are done on time from day one.
 
   / John Deere 3038 #9  
I was originally going to buy a used tractor for 10k or less and pay cash. I decided if I used the cash to pay off my truck I would take the truck payment and buy a new tractor. I am afraid of buying someone elses troubles (I know someone who bought used and has had a lot of problems) I like the idea of a warranty and knowing all maintenance/fluid changes are done on time from day one.

And they have 48 month zero interest loans right now. When I got my 790 I just didn't see enough difference in used vs new when I factored in the warranty and the loan valve. I had also had a very bad experience with a Gray market Yanmar and my wife would have killed me if I had bought another lemon.
 
   / John Deere 3038 #10  
I was originally going to buy a used tractor for 10k or less and pay cash. I decided if I used the cash to pay off my truck I would take the truck payment and buy a new tractor. I am afraid of buying someone elses troubles (I know someone who bought used and has had a lot of problems) I like the idea of a warranty and knowing all maintenance/fluid changes are done on time from day one.

I can understand that, & 0% for 48 is a heck of a deal if you can nab it. But still keep your eye open for a good used. This past September, I picked up the 3320 in my sig, with all the listed extra's, for not to much more than a new one would cost with just the loader. The machine only had 10 hrs on it and look's as good as any other new machine on the lot. If you can find one that nice with that low of hours, then there's practically no difference between new and used.
 
   / John Deere 3038 #11  
I can understand that, & 0% for 48 is a heck of a deal if you can nab it. But still keep your eye open for a good used. This past September, I picked up the 3320 in my sig, with all the listed extra's, for not to much more than a new one would cost with just the loader. The machine only had 10 hrs on it and look's as good as any other new machine on the lot. If you can find one that nice with that low of hours, then there's practically no difference between new and used.

I completely agree that finding something that is only a year old with that kind of low hours is a different deal. My Yanmar lemon was almost thirty years old and it had 10 hours also!
 
   / John Deere 3038 #12  
I completely agree that finding something that is only a year old with that kind of low hours is a different deal. My Yanmar lemon was almost thirty years old and it had 10 hours also!

That's insane, only 10 hrs after 30 yrs!? He must not have liked tractor's very much.:confused:
 
   / John Deere 3038 #13  
That's insane, only 10 hrs after 30 yrs!? He must not have liked tractor's very much.:confused:

And its confusing why so many things could have been broken and missing after just 10 hours of use! In addition this was one of the rare reconditioned tractors that didn't even have good paint.

I was more stupid than usual. There is a long thread in the yanmar forum testifing to my stupidity. Did get most of my money back though so I was stupid but lucky.
 
   / John Deere 3038 #14  
And its confusing why so many things could have been broken and missing after just 10 hours of use! In addition this was one of the rare reconditioned tractors that didn't even have good paint.

I was more stupid than usual. There is a long thread in the yanmar forum testifing to my stupidity. Did get most of my money back though so I was stupid but lucky.

I'll have to take a look at that thread. Atleast you got most of your money back so it wasn't a complete loss.
 
   / John Deere 3038 #15  
And its confusing why so many things could have been broken and missing after just 10 hours of use! In addition this was one of the rare reconditioned tractors that didn't even have good paint.

I was more stupid than usual. There is a long thread in the yanmar forum testifing to my stupidity. Did get most of my money back though so I was stupid but lucky.

Sounds like the list of things broken included the hour meter. I wonder if they reset it when they reconditioned the tractor.
 
   / John Deere 3038 #16  
The time has finally come to buy a tractor. I have need of a tractor for bush hogging, planting food plots, loader work, etc. I started looking at used tractors and have decided to buy new. I have looked at the Kubota l3400 but prefer to buy a john deere. I have looking at the 3320, 3520, 4105 models (I want a hydro), I liked the pricing on 4105 but it lacks a cruise control. The 3320 and 3520 are priced much higher than the kubota. (although I agree the ehydro, electric options vs mechanicl and overall styting are much nicer).

The dealer advised today the 3038 is the closest comparison to the Kubota l3400. I am going to drive one in the morning. Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on this machine. I have been quoted 18500 for the tractor and a 305 loader including cruise control, a hood guard, rear drawbar, r4 tires.

Where are you located? I have been quoted 15,500 for a 3032 with loader and R4's. Hood guard should be included with loader. Cruise should only be a couple hundred.

As far as the ROPS height is concerned, the website should list the overall height including the ROPS. Just measure the clearance you have on your garage, barn or tractor shed.
 
   / John Deere 3038 #18  
Sounds like the list of things broken included the hour meter. I wonder if they reset it when they reconditioned the tractor.

Yes I think that is a normal part of the "reconditioning".
 
   / John Deere 3038
  • Thread Starter
#19  
I'm in southern ohio. I was quoted today 18500 for the 3038, w/ 305 loader, cruise, hood guard, rear drawbar, I match. (20900 If I had frontier 5 ft mower and frontier box scraper)
**
22500 for the 3520 w/ 300x loader.
**
rev'd comp's with dealer. as for 3520 it compares to kubota l3540 which I rec'd a quote of 20955 for tractor/loader/hood guard/loaded tires. dealer won't match price on comp kubota on the deere.
**
 
   / John Deere 3038 #20  
I'm in southern ohio. I was quoted today 18500 for the 3038, w/ 305 loader, cruise, hood guard, rear drawbar, I match. (20900 If I had frontier 5 ft mower and frontier box scraper)
**
22500 for the 3520 w/ 300x loader.
**
rev'd comp's with dealer. as for 3520 it compares to kubota l3540 which I rec'd a quote of 20955 for tractor/loader/hood guard/loaded tires. dealer won't match price on comp kubota on the deere.
**

Just in case it's something you want to take into consideration, the 3520 has a turbo while the 3540 doesn't, and the JD also has 2 more PTO hp.
 

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