John deere 24t/14t differences

   / John deere 24t/14t differences #1  

lutt

Platinum Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2010
Messages
661
Location
Pocahontas, Arkansas
Tractor
Kubota ZG 22, John Deere 4200 4wd/ 420 loader, 4 wd,08 polaris 700 ranger crew
Good morning y'all! Could you guys explain the different characteristics of these 2 balers. I'm leaning towards the 24t. I have several of each found, a few ready to bail now. We will be pulling it with a old 60 John Deere and on occasion with my 4200. I have seen on here where it has been done with 20 pto horsepower tractors. We will be baling for our own use, Bermuda grass for our starting registered Hereford herd and wheat straw bedding for them and our registered spot pigs. So no commercial baling yet. Thanks, LUTT
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences #2  
24T is the later model with probably slight higher capacity. Knotter parts on both are the same. I've pulled a 214 with a JD BO(14 hp)
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks Texas Jim! I suspected that, our JD parts guy said he thinks he can get most the parts for the 24t, but wasn't so sure about the 14, the few 24 t I have found were in use last year, a couple even have kickers. But it's not gonna be a deal breaker. Really don't know if I need them! I'm just gonna have to drive a long ways for any of them I have found. I will be upgrading to a late 90's model 5000 series 50 or bigger horse next year. Just with a open station am 2 wheel drive with a loader .This summer it's just gonna have to be done with the old 2 cylinder and the little 4200, trying to pay cash as I go, getting where being in my early forties , I'm already thinking about retirement! Thank LUTT
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences #4  
I've had both, and performance is pretty much the same. I ran the 14T behind my little 17hp Kubota B7100 for a season... Baling uphill definitely loaded the tractor, and I just avoided going downhill 'cause the baler outweighed the tractor considerably (by about 1000 lbs :eek:), but it worked and got me through the season.

Many parts will interchange between the 14T and 24T. All the wear/consumable parts for both should be available from your dealer. Some 14T specific significant repair parts (i.e. gearbox internals, sprockets, etc.) may be hard to find, but there is often one being parted out on E-Bay. There are some construction refinements on the 24T that make it more desirable and maybe more durable. A big advantage from my perspective is the 24T wheels are set closer to the baler body, making it 8ft wide instead of ~9ft, so it's easier to fit into my narrow barn door, and easier to tow down the road while it keeping between the lines.
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks Pete's, running it with 17 pto horsepower is good to know. Makes me feel better about the 20 on my 4200! Do you know if a bale thrower or kicker would be good to have? There are some I have found with that,I've never used one. We always picked them up out of the field. Thanks LUTT
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences #6  
I picked up a well used 24t last year and I had really good luck with it. I used my Kioti DK45 (about 38 pto HP) and had no problems at all. The only thing that I noticed about it vs. what the guy who used to do our custom baling was speed and capacity. It makes really nice, even pretty bales with nice knots, but not at nearly the speed of a newer baler. I only need to punch out a few hundred at a time anyway, so it's not that big a deal, but I did break a few shear pins and clog the infeed up a couple of times by going too fast through a clump of hay.

I don't know how much difference there is between a 24t and 14t - I've heard the 24t is prefereable, but the 14t balers baled a lot of hay. If I get the opportunity to pick up one for parts, I probably will.

Good luck with whatever you choose. Take care.
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks a lot! I'm not gonna be baling a lot, just part of a 80 of Bermuda grass On the halves for my our own personal use and some wheat straw for animal bedding. There is a few 14ts around Iay have to check, prices do ones in supposedly working order are about the same. Thanks LUTT
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences #8  
Last year I ran the 24T behind my "new" (1962) IH B275 (38hp) and it was punching out a bale every 15 to 20 seconds, probably 50% faster than when I used the little Kubota the year before. That's plenty high capacity for me.

I woudn't recommend running a kicker with a little tractor. 20hp will run the baler fine, but the kicker adds weight and requires more epower. I've never really understood peoples desire to use a kicker. Unless you're a one man operation, it sure seems easier to have someone stack on the trailer, or pick up out of the field than have to deal with a random pile of bales in a cage when it comes time to unload.
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences #9  
what prices are you seeing for operational 24T balers?
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Thanks on the info about the kicker, really didn't think I needed one, I'm not looking into high volume production! Lol! We have a John Deere 60 2 cylinder that will run the baler most if the time! I thought about a extended bale chute and a wagon since most of the production is centered on one area, though. Just straight out of the field and to the shed. My 2 teenage girls, wife, and father n law is the operation, so I won't be doing it by myself! Thanks LUTT
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences
  • Thread Starter
#11  
what prices are you seeing for operational 24T balers?
Bucktaker, I have seen 1100 to 2200 for operational, two with kickers for around 1800, and one for 7000! HOLY COW!!! It was pristine, but I'm on a cash budget, and it's not happening! LUTT
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences #12  
I'd paid $1500 for the 14T which was maybe a bit much considering some of the wear and tear but I was in a hurry and there weren't any other choices, but it worked well after some typical maintenance. I learned a lot, including why it's important to make sure the plunger stop is working properly. A spring broke, the knotter clutch slipped leaving the needles up, the plunger-driven hay hit the needles and folded one over... DOH! As a bonus I learned how to build a makeshift forge big enough to heat a needle and straighted it back out. I sold the 14T for $1350 at the end of the season when I got the 24T (I didn't want 2 balers to store over the winter). I paid $750 for my 24T and consider I got a fantastic deal on it.... and it came with a spare needle!

The 24T bale chamber was less rusty and deformed than the 14T, so it was a easy to justify trade-up - half the money and a baler in better shape. I had a few problems with it beyond regular maintenance - the main one was that the input shaft snapped off where it enters the gearbox after about 55 bales. Lucky for me a fellow who came to pick up hay when it happened repaired the input shaft for me overnight for free! The plunger head wrist pin was worn oval, as were a couple other bushings. The needle lift pushrod broke off where it pins to the knotter shaft output disk, which was an easy fix. I machined and made up a new wrist pin which quieted things down significantly. I replaced the other bushings and broken pickup tines and consider the baler ready for the next 100,000 bales. I suppose if I had to buy new parts and have someone else work on it, I'd have quite a bit of $$ into it, in which case buying a newer baler may have made sense, but since I enjoy working on things and have a fairly well equipped shop, I can "afford" to pick up some great deals.

One thing to point out, I suppose - I checked the 24T out pretty carefully before buying it. There was no indication the input shaft was suspect. bearings and seals were all tight and it all ran fine. After taking it apart I realized someone else had been in there before me. There was evidence of a gear crunching event. The drive bevel gears were replaced at that time, so I suspect something broke years ago which jammed the gears and stressed the shaft. It snapped off through the pin hole cross-drilled through the shaft just in front of the gearbox used to secures a collar that locates the bearing into the gearbox. Inspection of the break indicated a crack had been progressing for a long time. I suppose my point is that old (or any equipment for that matter) may fail in various ways, some of which are obviously impending due to regular wear, lack of maintenance, fatigue, operator malfunction/error/abuse or cascade effects from another failure.

Try to find the least worn and best maintained baler you can - wear is evident in wrist pins (plunger connecting rod), PTO shaft/clutch/u-joints), bale chamber plunger guides, and knotters. Also look for cracks in and around the bale chamber, and the amount of rust in general. I've heard stories of 24Ts passing 1,000,000 bales, so they're obviously well designed and maintainable.
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Thanks Pete's, very useful for me! I will be doing my own work on the baler. I'm gonna screen shot this so I have it with me. Problem with them there all out of state. I've been talking to the sellers so hopefully one trip is all I will have to make! I'm a chief engineer on a large vessel and part time farmer. So working on one won't be a problem. I'm gonna try to find a manual for it when I get one. Also have a good machine shop down the road! Father n law bales with one years ago ! Don't really think I will get a kicker not unless it's on it. I have my two teenage girls, wife, father n law and I to gather up bales thanks LUTT
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences #14  
Thanks for the info
I will be selling my 24T along with the rest of my hay equipment this year. No Help and not enough time to keep it going.
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Your welcome Bucktaker, if your baler is in good working condition, send me a pm if you have a idea what you want for it. LUTT
 
   / John deere 24t/14t differences #16  
Here's a video I found about how to inspect a 14T: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mxn4eyr5Mc

The same guy doing a similar video for a 24T, but it's not quite as informative in my opinion http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ffm7INY3CO4

I swear I'd come across a better how-to guide on what to look for (and look out for) when buying a used baler, but can't find it now.

Both the balers in the videos look fairly tired - I'd value them in the under $1000 range due to the amount of rust, indicating they were stored outside and not cleaned before storing each year. There was a recent thread on this forum from a guy trying to get his 24T knotters working. The photos of his knotters made me shudder - way too rusty for my liking and a lot of wear. Yes, everything can be repaired but it can get expensive fast if you have to buy new parts.

Most parts can be repaired/refurbished (or built) for very little cost with access to a welder, machine tools and time (new bushings, straghtening out bent things, welding broken things, building up worn things, etc.).

Let me know if you have any other questions, and I wish you the best in finding a good one!
 
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   / John deere 24t/14t differences
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Thanks a lot Pete's, you've been more than helpful. When I get the baler home, I will start a thread on going thru one. They are obviously a popular baler still. I will have pretty good support at my local JD dealer. Maybe you can help by the thread I start also. Thanks LUTT
 

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