John Deere 2020 losing power

[Maury Atkins]

I have a JD 2020 (bought last year) and a 10 ft bushhog. Just in the last few days it has started losing power and even shutting off after about 10-20 minutes under full load. Runs perfectly before then.

I have already checked/replaced the fuel filter and bled the lines (it needed changing badly). Also earlier found an obstruction in the air intake-part of a bird nest--got that all clean and cleaned the air filter sediment bowl and added new oil (oil bath type).

After talking with the dealer today, i blew out the bypass line from the injector pump to the tank-but it didnt seem obstructed. Also, because it seemed to be running a little hot ( but not in the red at all), i replaced the thermostat and flushed the cooling system.

After all that, took it back out and ran perfectly under load till about 10 minutes into it and then started sputtering, losing power, and eventually shut down. No signs of overheating or any other visible red flags.

I am at a loss--anybody have any suggestions?

 

[AKfish]

Welcome to TBN, Maury. Sure sounds like a fuel problem to me. Do a search here on the Deere forum (might be in Owner/operating section) regarding the 20 series tractors.

IIRC - ClemBert posted a real good thread on his solution to a fuel delivery problem.

AKfish

 

[Tx Jim]

You stated you blew out the return line but did you check the return line fitting for an obstruction?? The fitting has a glass ball check valve that has a history of being plugged by debris from a deteriorating inj pump governor drive ring. Simple test is loosen both screws on inj pump timing window. This will relieve built up pressure inside pump allowing it to pump fuel. If engine runs for a longer time then check fitting.

 

[sweettractors]

I have a JD 2020 (bought last year) and a 10 ft bushhog. Just in the last few days it has started losing power and even shutting off after about 10-20 minutes under full load. Runs perfectly before then.

I have already checked/replaced the fuel filter and bled the lines (it needed changing badly). Also earlier found an obstruction in the air intake-part of a bird nest--got that all clean and cleaned the air filter sediment bowl and added new oil (oil bath type).

After talking with the dealer today, i blew out the bypass line from the injector pump to the tank-but it didnt seem obstructed. Also, because it seemed to be running a little hot ( but not in the red at all), i replaced the thermostat and flushed the cooling system.

After all that, took it back out and ran perfectly under load till about 10 minutes into it and then started sputtering, losing power, and eventually shut down. No signs of overheating or any other visible red flags.

I am at a loss--anybody have any suggestions?

I have 2 things in mind. 1. Something in the fuel tank that keeps working its way over the outlet fuel line, 2. The injection pump is being plugged (internally) by some foreign material. My Son just had the exact same problem and it was the #2 problem. Ken Sweet

 

[Maury Atkins]

thanks-i will check that out!

 

[Maury Atkins]

thanks-i will check that out---

 

[Maury Atkins]

Ken, So, if your son had that happen (the injection pump being plugged), what was required to fix it?

 

[Tx Jim]

Maury
I'm not Ken but I'll bet his son's inj pump problem was a stopped up check valve in return line just as I referred to in my earlier post.

 

[Maury Atkins]

Jim, You are right in line with what the dealer i bought it from suggested. His focus was the bypass line going back into the tank (just over the phone). I did blow it out with compressed air, but you are right-i did not check the fitting itself. I wont be back in the field to check it till later tomorrow. The check valve in the fitting you are referring to--is it located at the injector pump itself or on the fuel tank end of the line?

 

[sweettractors]

Ken, So, if your son had that happen (the injection pump being plugged), what was required to fix it?

He sent his pump to Fair Vally Performance on Saulk City, WI and they fixed it. ($600) Their phone # is 608-643-0200. Ken Sweet

 

[Maury Atkins]

Ouch! 600 bucks---i sure hope i dont have the same ailment! I am going to try checking all my lines again and fittings and hope i can get a cheaper fix--thanks for the response!

 

[sweettractors]

Ouch! 600 bucks---i sure hope i dont have the same ailment! I am going to try checking all my lines again and fittings and hope i can get a cheaper fix--thanks for the response!

The local shop wanted $1200. Ken Sweet

 

[Tx Jim]

Jim, You are right in line with what the dealer i bought it from suggested. His focus was the bypass line going back into the tank (just over the phone). I did blow it out with compressed air, but you are right-i did not check the fitting itself. I wont be back in the field to check it till later tomorrow. The check valve in the fitting you are referring to--is it located at the injector pump itself or on the fuel tank end of the line?

The fitting I'm referring to screws into inj pump and return line attaches to it.

 

[Maury Atkins]

awesome-that is the first thing i will be checking on-thanks!

 

[Barry Bowen]

Had the same problem on a 1520, deteriorating parts inside the pump blocking things up, rebuilt the pump, problem solved, wallet lighter by 550. Diesel Pro in Glen Rock, PA

 

[crankshaft21]

One more suggestion, check fuel tank filler cap and make sure it is vented and not clogged. The system has to be able to breathe.

 

[Maury Atkins]

I really appreciate all that feedback-it is very helpful as i think things through. I am hoping i dont have an injector pump issue as funds are tight right now but all of us just want to troubleshoot and get to the truth.

Went out last week and took the bypass line off and checked the fitting coming off the injector pump-it didnt have a little ball in there, just open fitting and i checked it thoroughly-had no dirt or obstruction - blew it out and blew the bypass line out again. The only other thing i noted was that my brother in law had run most of the fuel out bushhogging. I like to keep it full to cut down on condensation, etc, so i put 10 gallons in which brought it a bit over half full. I then went out and bushhogged for a good 45 min to an hour--a good heavy load - ran perfectly. Brother in law then 2 days later was bushhogging again and the power issue came back again, ran erratically and now i will go back Saturday and see what i can discern.

After this final issue, my thought is that there is debris or sludge in the tank bottom that is interfering with the outlet line. I am wondering if, when i put 10 gallons in it stirred up whatever trash was at the bottom and it ran fine. Then after 2 days, it all settled to the bottom again. Since it ran perfectly for me for almost an hour under heavy load, i am hopeful that this is not an injector pump issue but trash in the bottom of the tank.

If anyone has any final thoughts-i would love to hear!

 

[jenkinsph]

If it were me I would take the tank off and clean it well, sediment in the tank can drive me crazy. BTDT on a Deere 450 dozer, it would only act up when I needed it to work hard.


Train the BIL to top off the tank every time he uses the tractor.:laughing:

 

[Maury Atkins]

Steve, I think you have nailed it. I drained some fuel off the sediment bowl under the filter and let it sit in a glass container. No real water (yea!), but there was some very fine debris there. I disconnected the input line from fuel pump and blew compessed air back into the tank, hoping to dislodge or stir up whatever might have obstructed the outlet. Ran perfectly under load for a good hour after that.

I think i will focus on getting the tank cleaned out AND get my BIL to then keep it full!

All the input has been very much appreciated------------

 

[Barry Bowen]

What does you BIL expect the tractor to run like? He is expecting to get the performance of 4020 out of a 2020? If it runs fine for you maybe the BIL is the problem.