John Deere 14T Needles problem

[jcwehking]

14T baler working great. Got 70+ bales on the wagon and the knot wasn't being tied. Found the pin in the needle travel arm had sheered. Easy to replace but sheered again on first knot cycle. After some investigation I found the left side needle (fly wheel side) had moved and hit on the knotter not allowing it to complete its cycle. No lose bolts on the needle. Loosened and adjusted per specs and put in new pin. Now the twine disc already starts its movement before the needles have delivered the twine. I don't see that any chains have skipped a sprocket tooth, nothing bent or loose. Is there additional adjustments or where should I start my search. I know the 14T well but this one has me scratching my head.

 

[tlm720]

You can change the length of the link that actuates the needles. Before you do check the timing. This will be hard without photos. Turn the flywheel by hand until the plungerhead is in the center of the front feeder slot. The feeder pivot pin should be in the lower hole. Make sure the chain tensioner is snug on the feeder drive chain. From the left hand edge of the feeder tooth to left edge of the feeder support should be 17-5/8" Trip the knotter and rotate the flywheel until the needle is flush with the top edge of the needle slot. There should be 1" to 2-1/4" between the needle and the plunger face. This will verify that no chains have jumped on you or nothing else is loose.

 

[Barry 1]

The only thing I can think of--You might of sheared the key on the needle lift disc(mine has a disc) on the end of the knotter shaft?? The thing that the lift rod attaches to that spins around to lift the needles.

 

[jcwehking]

I have the manual and was looking at the timing. From what I could tell, measurements were within spec. Only 1" from plunger to arms though. Although not sure that would affect the needles? Did check the keys and pins on needle travel arm and good. I tried adjusting the needle arm length but to short and it won't release the stops for the plunger and too long makes it further from the twine disks. Good thoughts. could the needles bend? I'm thinking not since they appear to be cast. Is there a way to change only the timing of the needles advancement. Seems too that the twine used to sit closer to the disc but a person doesn't look that close when it's working fine and the clearances are good. Just strange it affects both sides the same.

 

[zzvyb6]

See if you can follow this:

John Deere Baler Knotter Action - YouTube

You will need to roll your flywheel over by hand, and very slowly when the needle movement starts...

 

[jcwehking]

Yep. Looks exactly right except the needles are not getting the twine to the twine disks in time.

 

[jcwehking]

I will look closer in the morning cause that would do it for sure. When I looked on quick checks it appeared ok.

 

[Tx Jim]

Good thoughts. could the needles bend? .

Yes the needles can bend and not break. If needles are timed correctly to PH(1" to 2-1/4" between the needle and the plunger face) then there's no other timing adjustment to needles to knotter components. One ""should only change needle lift linkage""" if needles are not advancing into knotter system to the proper height.

Have you tried adjusting needle tip closer to twine disk by loosening needle rear mounting bolt and tightening frt needle mounting bolt????

 

[jcwehking]

Have you tried adjusting needle tip closer to twine disk by loosening needle rear mounting bolt and tightening frt needle mounting bolt????

The needles are within spec, approximately 1/16" from disc so there isn't much more room for adjustment.

 

[jcwehking]

I will look closer in the morning cause that would do it for sure. When I looked on quick checks it appeared ok.

Just checked. There are two slots for a key. The one is still in place so it has not moved. The second slot would advance nearly 1/8 turn of the wheel so that would be way too much.