V1BuzzBomb
Silver Member
I wanted to share some information on these.
I have a 2004 110 TLB. I bought it used from a landscape company. After owning it for a while, I noticed that the attachment to all my loader implements was fairly sloppy. Upon further inspection, I noticed that the rearward hole for the lower latch pivot for the Quick Tach plates was fairly stretched. Thus, the retaining pawl could angle forward under load.
Last month, I encountered a 110 TLB being parted in Arizona on craigslist, thanks DocDryden for the referal! I purchased a few items from that machine, including the Quick Tach plate assemblies. Upon receipt, I noticed a bunch of added weld on the lower pivot bungs. I initially was disappointed for my investment. You could see the remnant crack on the inside. My Quick Tach plates are still on my machine. As I inspect the likewise areas on my original Quick Tach plates, I can see a rust line short of half way around where each weld meets the side plate at all four locations for the lower cross pivot pin. I fully expect to find the same cracks on my old plates, not yet repaired. I expect this problem may be somewhat commonplace on these machines with moderate to commercial use.
These Quick Tach plate weldments are over $400 per side new from John Deere. There is no guarantee that new ones may not eventually crack. I'm less disappointed in the plates I purchased from Arizona now. I actually cleaned, welded, ground flush the inboard remnant crack and painted the plates.
For what it's worth, the later Quick Tach plates are beefier than the early. There is more meat around the latch pivot pins. Mine is a 2004 and I believe the plates I bought may have been from a 2007. I will image when I can.
Not including the two per pivot pins, there are three "weld pins", as JD calls them, that hold the latch and spring assemblies together. As members may have noticed, these tend to work loose as the only thing that holds them is the gap in the plates they sit in and the coil spring pressure. I thought perhaps they tapped in and interference on the far side of the component retained them, not the case. They float less the previous scenario described. As the head is on the downward side, the tend to work their way out. They won't fall out but get loose as one end pulls out. The pin nearest the handle may fallout/get hung up on the plate. It is visible with the handle up and get hung up/fall out when handle is pushed down, re-entering the plate.
I bought six new pins and initially thought the purchase fruitless as the originals were in perfect shape. Upon further inspection, I found that the replacements were longer. They can float inside but because of the longer length, will not start to come out and get loose. The pin nearest the handle still has the same issue described above. I may end up tack welding a flat washer to hold it. It may be possible to drill a small hole for a cotter pin but there's not much pin exposed to do that. The pin is JD part W50737. Will add more images as I can.
I have a 2004 110 TLB. I bought it used from a landscape company. After owning it for a while, I noticed that the attachment to all my loader implements was fairly sloppy. Upon further inspection, I noticed that the rearward hole for the lower latch pivot for the Quick Tach plates was fairly stretched. Thus, the retaining pawl could angle forward under load.
Last month, I encountered a 110 TLB being parted in Arizona on craigslist, thanks DocDryden for the referal! I purchased a few items from that machine, including the Quick Tach plate assemblies. Upon receipt, I noticed a bunch of added weld on the lower pivot bungs. I initially was disappointed for my investment. You could see the remnant crack on the inside. My Quick Tach plates are still on my machine. As I inspect the likewise areas on my original Quick Tach plates, I can see a rust line short of half way around where each weld meets the side plate at all four locations for the lower cross pivot pin. I fully expect to find the same cracks on my old plates, not yet repaired. I expect this problem may be somewhat commonplace on these machines with moderate to commercial use.
These Quick Tach plate weldments are over $400 per side new from John Deere. There is no guarantee that new ones may not eventually crack. I'm less disappointed in the plates I purchased from Arizona now. I actually cleaned, welded, ground flush the inboard remnant crack and painted the plates.
For what it's worth, the later Quick Tach plates are beefier than the early. There is more meat around the latch pivot pins. Mine is a 2004 and I believe the plates I bought may have been from a 2007. I will image when I can.
Not including the two per pivot pins, there are three "weld pins", as JD calls them, that hold the latch and spring assemblies together. As members may have noticed, these tend to work loose as the only thing that holds them is the gap in the plates they sit in and the coil spring pressure. I thought perhaps they tapped in and interference on the far side of the component retained them, not the case. They float less the previous scenario described. As the head is on the downward side, the tend to work their way out. They won't fall out but get loose as one end pulls out. The pin nearest the handle may fallout/get hung up on the plate. It is visible with the handle up and get hung up/fall out when handle is pushed down, re-entering the plate.
I bought six new pins and initially thought the purchase fruitless as the originals were in perfect shape. Upon further inspection, I found that the replacements were longer. They can float inside but because of the longer length, will not start to come out and get loose. The pin nearest the handle still has the same issue described above. I may end up tack welding a flat washer to hold it. It may be possible to drill a small hole for a cotter pin but there's not much pin exposed to do that. The pin is JD part W50737. Will add more images as I can.
