john deere 1050 questions

[johntom89]

Hello all after reading many posts on here i finally decided this was the forum to join. Some what recently i acquired a later model 1050 4wd and it is in contradictory to say but shes in good shape, and then other point shes in need of replacement, wheel bearings, pinion seal done right, brakes, precautionary hydraulic line replacement.

the left pinion seal is brand new but it seem there is a missing sleeve or wear collar as when you pull on it bottom out top in and then back again you can see maybe 1/16 of play on each side. to me that shouldnt be there. but what type of seal does this one use? does say weaver sell a different one from hoye? and if the wheel bearings were replaced is there a reason the front of the stubshaft (where the wheel bolts too) to have a lot of play, like 1/8" anyway you push it(with the wheel off)i know this is no joke for the gears inside which is why i am not pushing her until i figure this out (need your input guys) the previous owner replaced the lower gear housing, i guess new bearings and all inside which i believe him, i think with no expirience he didnt know to order new seal kits and all that jazz.

i have good experience so outside of splitting the tractor and opening the motor up 1 man (i do not have a garage never mind concrete floor lol im on dirt) is this a fairly easy job so long as i order all new parts complete and do her right and have a "complete wrench and socket set"

i forgot to add it is an 88' FEL backhoe

 

[johntom89]

i honestly need some input, not sure what to do.

should i just order everything besides the gears and housings?

seems no one around here knows much of this model other than it was supposed to be the lowest warranty cost-tractor deere ever made which i have heard 3 times from diff people but no first hand how toos or "watch out fors"

 

[Barry 1]

Go to Hoye Tractor. look in the Tech Center for "Knuckle Seal Replacement" then look under YM336D (same axle)and there are very good instructions.You are going to have to pull the stub axle to see what's wrong(don't loose the shims)

 

[beenthere]

johntom
I'd suggest going to jdparts https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/

and put your model 1050 in, then follow along to the parts illustrations and part numbers. Also will show you what parts are, or are not, missing.

Also suggest getting the service tech manual to give you a leg up on doing the work yourself. Can get paper copy, likely CD copy, and download .pdf copy.

 

[johntom89]

excellent guys i appreciate it. as i know i have yet to pull them off yet to diagnose what is needed both missing or to replace.

so basically what is shown for the 88 model year is how she should be then? i just wasnt sure if there was different types or what-not.

other part of my seemingly-never ending thinking into everything with the tractor, is there supposed to be play in the stubs at all? or is she supposed to be tight, and snug like a vehicles wheel bearings? also as you named it the knuckle (i dont know the name of many parts) is there supposed to be and/or safely to have movement there as i do?

also considering the previous owner has replaced that lower housing (which is colored the same as an older yanmar) what if there are no shims either inside or between the cover and housing? i have viewed a couple videos which i could actually find on her, but no safe answers from them. basically im alittle nervous of letting what should be a simple answer to go on and create much more expensive issues

and just curiuos as to any old school oil additives, or type for motor oil? want to take the best of care i can afford to. is this motor safe to add oil stop leak if i ever get a wonderful "weep"

and is it safe to add blue devil hydraulic sealant to the tranny/hydraulic fluid? only for a couple seals on the quick connects and rams

 

[johntom89]

excellent guys i appreciate it. as i know i have yet to pull them off yet to diagnose what is needed both missing or to replace.

so basically what is shown for the 88 model year is how she should be then? i just wasnt sure if there was different types or what-not.

other part of my seemingly-never ending thinking into everything with the tractor, is there supposed to be play in the stubs at all? or is she supposed to be tight, and snug like a vehicles wheel bearings? also as you named it the knuckle (i dont know the name of many parts) is there supposed to be and/or safely to have movement there as i do?

also considering the previous owner has replaced that lower housing (which is colored the same as an older yanmar) what if there are no shims either inside or between the cover and housing? i have viewed a couple videos which i could actually find on her, but no safe answers from them. basically im alittle nervous of letting what should be a simple answer to go on and create much more expensive issues

and just curiuos as to any old school oil additives, or type for motor oil? want to take the best of care i can afford to. is this motor safe to add oil stop leak if i ever get a wonderful "weep"

and is it safe to add blue devil hydraulic sealant to the tranny/hydraulic fluid? only for a couple seals on the quick connects and rams

and is there anyway i could "service" or add to the oil to take the best of care possible for the turbo, i know its a small one, but i know shes a very expensive girl :thumbdown:

 

[California]

You might also inquire over in the (classic) Yanmar forum. Owners there likely have more DIY experience on the same Yanmar components.

 

[johntom89]

i do want to find a good deal on the service manuals, as i do intend doing all that i possibly can myself.

i will look for the yanmar classic forums good idea. that slop up front may not let out steel on steel squeal but i think i goes without saying what the concern is. thanks guys i really do appreciate it

 

[chriswheeler]

When rebuilding the front axle of my 950 ( same as a 1050 except for the turbo ) it ended up as quite a ordeal getting some of the parts. Bearings, seals, gaskets, were all somewhat easy to find. Gears are another story. Between buying from Hoye, Fredrics, and in the end a tractor salvage yard, got up and running good again and sold off. Hoye was my first stop for rebuild parts. You will soon learn that most of the parts are available from JD but no gears and at almost twice the price. I made a great return on the investment on that one, but lots of wrenching time.
Chris

 

[johntom89]

very well. looks like i will be opening one side up at a time as i do not have a concrete pad but it is what it is.

i will look through the parts schematic ordering all that can wear(besides gears) i really hope the backlash was set with the original spacers after previous owner had to replace the left side lower gear housing.....

i am planning on replacing the hyd-fluid with travellers from TSC from what i have found its very popular and people have very good luck with i, i dont mean to cheap out on over the hy-gard but is hy gard necessary?

and i was planning on 5-40 motor oil, with alittle leak stopper

 

[johntom89]

i forgot to thank everyone taking their time to reply. means a lot guys thank you :drink:

 

[beenthere]

Good luck, but I'd use the Deere oil..

 

[California]

At least put down a tarp, so small parts that fall don't vanish.

Amazon reviews on Lucas products are favorable for both their hydraulic and motor oil stop-leak products. Haven't tried them myself.

 

[TimberHole]

Are we talking about the front spindles? I've done them on a 950. More than likely the spindle will have grooves and you will need to install a repair sleeve. I didn't like Hoyes sleeves as they would have required machining the hubs. I bought a thinner repair sleeve and it worked great. My spindles leaked like a screen door on a submarine before the repair and don't leak one drop now. I'll have to look at the book for the hydraulic oil that is called for.

Here are some p

 

[johntom89]

timberhole i found a previous post you had about that particular sleeve. i take it i will simply have to measure the hub as it is, then the hole it enters the lower gear housing there? thatll be the way to determine which sleeve is needed? previous owner replaced the housing with a yanmar-colored one very recently and i initially figured he forgot to replace maybe a brass ring-type-bushing where that hub meets the lower gear housing which is what gave it the 1/16th or so of existing side to side play. but i am assuming this is very common which is why the companies offer wear sleeves?

 

[TimberHole]

The design of this spindle seems weird to me as the oil seals from housing to housing, as opposed to just sealing where the shafts exit their respective housings. As I recall, there is a bearing in the lower housing which supports the pinion gear. I don't recall a brass ring but I'm not looking at a parts manual. All the spacers are important as they establish the correct backlash in the gear train. The manual goes thru this in great detail. When I did mine I simply kept good track of the spacers and returned to the original condition. Here is a pic of the lower hub. The issue I had with the Hoye spindle sleeve is that the OD of the sleeve was larger than the hole in the lower hub, preventing the install of the lower hub unless the hole was enlarged.

As I recall there are two different seal applications. Some hubs use a single seal while others use two seals on each hub. You might need to take yours apart to figure out which you have.

With respect to the sleeve you'll want to measure but I'm guessing you'll need that same part number. That sleeve is designed to work on existing OD of 2.359 to 2.365. You'll need to cobble together driver but a pipe sleeve and a piece of wood or plate will suffice. I think I put a little pucky under the sleeve to prevent any seepage under the sleeve. Probably just used a bit of silicon but don't remember.

 

[chriswheeler]

Best advise I can give is all of the bearings and seals are not much of a cost issue compared to replacing drive gears. Damage in mine were caused by bearing fails and movement in the drive gear clearance. I re-set up the gear clearance and contact patterns during the assembly knowing it was likely if I lost anymore of the gears, I'd be cutting my own replacements, very hard to find replacements. The bearings that did cause the fail were less than $5 ea on ebay. Look by bearing # and not by John Deere part # and go to any local bearing supply. Change them all.
Chris

 

[johntom89]

excellent, solid gold replies exactly what i was hoping for

i couldnt agree more on replacing all the bearings and seals at the same time. i will order everything i see on the parts schematic tomorrow hopefully, maybe tear into her her this weekend

outta curiosity timberhole what year is your model? mine is the 88" so i am assuming (which is dangerous at times i know) it is the new style

thank you everyone, theres nothing like the right people at the right time. as one stupid move is very costly...

one more question, do you run the lucas hub oil? what gear oil do you use? and is it the same in the axle housing?

 

[TimberHole]

excellent, solid gold replies exactly what i was hoping for

i couldnt agree more on replacing all the bearings and seals at the same time. i will order everything i see on the parts schematic tomorrow hopefully, maybe tear into her her this weekend

outta curiosity timberhole what year is your model? mine is the 88" so i am assuming (which is dangerous at times i know) it is the new style

thank you everyone, theres nothing like the right people at the right time. as one stupid move is very costly...

one more question, do you run the lucas hub oil? what gear oil do you use? and is it the same in the axle housing?

I do not run any any additives now that I have my leaks fixed. The axle housings and hub housings are really one big system as there is not an oil seal between them. The seals you are replacing prevent oil from hitting the ground but do not prevent oil from moving from the axle to the hub. I think there are separate fill plugs on the housings but that is just because it would take forever to move enough oil from the axle to the hubs to fill the hubs. At least that is the way I see the system. The correct oil is 90 weight. Even the Deere dealer was wrong on their recommendation for the oil. Below is a pic from the manual.

I have the manuals. If you send me a private message with your contact info I can send you copies if you need them. Hopefully your side play is just in your bearings and your housings are good. Probably be easy for a machine shop to repair the housings if necessary. You may need to adjust shims to get the correct backlash. The book goes thru all that.

Looks like I am smart enough to occasionally fix a tractor but not smart enough to take a picture as it is sideways. Oh well.


Edit: my tractor is a late 70s model. A 79 I think.

 

[chriswheeler]

timberhole brought up a point I forgot, the sealing sleve repair. He is right, mine were toasted just like his. I have a lathe and it wasn't much work to make my own and shrink them on fixing them with a new running surface. I just run JD 90 wt gear oil and after the repair, not a issue.
.it's running at a farm in Twin Falls Idaho now My "new to me" JD 970tlb runs the same 90 wt and it's just fine.
chris