jb7919
New member
My Jinma 284 started leaking hydraulic fluid on the right side of the seat by a box and the backend where fluid is added. Any idea as to what would cause this or ways to repair it? Thanks for the help.
Jinma model 284
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Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
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- Daleville, IN
- Tractor
- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
Its not over filled is it? You check the fluid by adding when there id none on the dipstick when resting in place, not threaded in, with the tractor off and the 3 point and loader down.
This brings up another topic. Only lower the loader and 3 point with the engine runnind to get a accurate measure.
Chris
This brings up another topic. Only lower the loader and 3 point with the engine runnind to get a accurate measure.
Chris
SPIKER
Elite Member
Jim sounds like you are sucking Air and Foaming the fluid which then bubbles out. Is the fluid after running a min foamy looking> ? That might be the case is so check for loose hyd fittings and make sure any QDs are fully set. use Zip Ties to keep them from popping loose when running which will blow up the pump.
Under the seat there is a cover that comes off usually 3 bolts where the steel suction line is at. inside there is a metal suction strainer that can come apart letting air get sucked in.
Mark
Under the seat there is a cover that comes off usually 3 bolts where the steel suction line is at. inside there is a metal suction strainer that can come apart letting air get sucked in.
Mark
Mark,
IO agree with it sucking air. I could feel the air at the vent in back. Yes, It was also foaming when I checked the fluid. I'll follow your suggestions. However, I won't get to it tonight. It will be later in the week. Please explain further what you mean by QDs; I just want to be on the same page as you.
Thank you.
Jim
IO agree with it sucking air. I could feel the air at the vent in back. Yes, It was also foaming when I checked the fluid. I'll follow your suggestions. However, I won't get to it tonight. It will be later in the week. Please explain further what you mean by QDs; I just want to be on the same page as you.
Thank you.
Jim
RonMar
Elite Member
check the metal pipe that runs between reservoir and pump. On mine there is a pipe union right on top of the reservoir. If that loosens a little, it will suck a lot of air instead of fluid...
greg_g
Super Member
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- Dec 18, 2003
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- Location
- Western Kentucky
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- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
It's a vented system, and the fill plug doubles as the sole vent. It's this feature that makes the system self-priming. A clean fill/vent plug will intended to "inhale" as fluid is drawn from the sump (raise bucket/rear lift), and "exhale" as fluid flows back into the sump (lower bucket/rear lift). Yours sounds as if it's functioning properly, so air is apparently being drawn in elsewhere. Don't waste time starting on the pressure side of the pump either. As Ron points out, this type issue is typically found on the suction/return side.
//greg//
//greg//
bjr
Veteran Member
I have a 354 leaking and I think there's seals bad on the rockshaft. bjr
SPIKER
Elite Member
QDs = Quick Disconnects normally on the outlet of pump to FEL and out of FEL to the return line/3point lift valve. Sucking Air happens on the Intake Side of the pump. You will need to pull the seat off and inspect the hard line coming out of the top (3 or 4 Bolt plate) under the seat leading to the Hyd Pump. There are several fittings that can come lose OR there could be a small pin hole in that metal line. Other choice is once you find all lines OK then you will need to pull that line and bolt/cover to inspect the screen inside the hyd tank under that 3~4 bolt plate. It could have came off & fell into the hyd tank or been sucked flat cracked or letting the air on top of tank get sucked into the line.
The FOAM expand the volume of fluid and bubbles out causing the volume to get lower letting it suck MORE air and gets worse... First is to make sure it gets topped off after inspecting so it is full of fluid. and keep inspecting and going thru it. It can be found with out too much worry just takes some time and fluid puddles
When/If you have to pull the hard line be sure to try & fill it up as much as possible with fluid prior to final install. not easy but a hose and funnel or squirt bottle with lower fitting slightly lose will let a lot of fluid back down into the line.
Mark
The FOAM expand the volume of fluid and bubbles out causing the volume to get lower letting it suck MORE air and gets worse... First is to make sure it gets topped off after inspecting so it is full of fluid. and keep inspecting and going thru it. It can be found with out too much worry just takes some time and fluid puddles
When/If you have to pull the hard line be sure to try & fill it up as much as possible with fluid prior to final install. not easy but a hose and funnel or squirt bottle with lower fitting slightly lose will let a lot of fluid back down into the line.
Mark
Mark,
Finally had chance to work on this Jinma. Discovered diesel leaked into oil. That problem has been taken care of.
Hydraulic still leaks out of vent in fill plug. All fittings were tight, no leaks. This leak continues after removing seat and checking fitting of steel tube. Even removed plat to check screen in hydraulic tank. Screen was flat. When raising bucket or 3 point hitch it is very slow to raise and does so in a stutter type movement. Power steering is also difficult. When lowering bucket is when fluid leaks out of vent tube in fill plug.
I'm thinking air in the hydraulic lines or something wrong with the hydraulic pump.
Any thoughts?
Much appreciated.
Jimreg
Finally had chance to work on this Jinma. Discovered diesel leaked into oil. That problem has been taken care of.
Hydraulic still leaks out of vent in fill plug. All fittings were tight, no leaks. This leak continues after removing seat and checking fitting of steel tube. Even removed plat to check screen in hydraulic tank. Screen was flat. When raising bucket or 3 point hitch it is very slow to raise and does so in a stutter type movement. Power steering is also difficult. When lowering bucket is when fluid leaks out of vent tube in fill plug.
I'm thinking air in the hydraulic lines or something wrong with the hydraulic pump.
Any thoughts?
Much appreciated.
Jimreg
Greg,
Finally had chance to work on this Jinma. Discovered diesel leaked into oil. That problem has been taken care of.
Hydraulic still leaks out of vent in fill plug. All fittings were tight, no leaks. This leak continues after removing seat and checking fitting of steel tube. Even removed plat to check screen in hydraulic tank. Screen was flat. When raising bucket or 3 point hitch it is very slow to raise and does so in a stutter type movement. Power steering is also difficult. When lowering bucket is when fluid leaks out of vent tube in fill plug.
I'm thinking air in the hydraulic lines or something wrong with the hydraulic pump.
Any thoughts?
Finally had chance to work on this Jinma. Discovered diesel leaked into oil. That problem has been taken care of.
Hydraulic still leaks out of vent in fill plug. All fittings were tight, no leaks. This leak continues after removing seat and checking fitting of steel tube. Even removed plat to check screen in hydraulic tank. Screen was flat. When raising bucket or 3 point hitch it is very slow to raise and does so in a stutter type movement. Power steering is also difficult. When lowering bucket is when fluid leaks out of vent tube in fill plug.
I'm thinking air in the hydraulic lines or something wrong with the hydraulic pump.
Any thoughts?
SPIKER
Elite Member
Hey JB79:
Ok that Screen should NOT be flat they should be round or pleated. that is there to keep large debris from getting sucked into the pump. If it is flat then the pump is starving for fluid and sucking air in past the front seal or in from one of the pump o-rings. You will need to replace that suction screen (under the seat & under the tube plate) with a new one, they can be had from several places.
The next thing to make sure of is that the Hyd Fluid is not getting into engine thru the front seal of the hyd pump. If the pump was dead headed or someone put too much pressure onto hyd.s then that seal maybe damaged. If that is the culprit then you can replace that seal or the pump. they are not too bad of price 120 +/- or so bucks from states side supplier or go FedEX and buy one from china for 80 or 90.
You can also buy rebuild kits for these pumps for a 20 or 30 bucks which are really just the shaft seal and two formed rubber O-Rings that fit into the pump body. just be aware the pump can not be fully tightened down as it will bind up there needs to be a fraction of inch loose/slop between the plates and pump body.
Pump has 2 bolts that holds the body and end plates together and catty-corners are two longer bolts that bolt it to the tractor engine front drive gears. I rebuilt mine but didnt get it quite right and just put on a NEW pump. My brother Pressure Washed my tractor after he used it and the high pressure water stream went between body of pump and end plate cutting the seal... He figured the pump looked greasy so he sprayed it really well :/
You can also take some grease and put a little coating around the pump body (Aluminum part) and the steel ends on it (o-rings between the two) as a test to see if that stops the air sucking.
went & got some old picks post for ya,
FYI I think there were 2 types of pumps if I remember right, see pic above.
Mark
Ok that Screen should NOT be flat they should be round or pleated. that is there to keep large debris from getting sucked into the pump. If it is flat then the pump is starving for fluid and sucking air in past the front seal or in from one of the pump o-rings. You will need to replace that suction screen (under the seat & under the tube plate) with a new one, they can be had from several places.
The next thing to make sure of is that the Hyd Fluid is not getting into engine thru the front seal of the hyd pump. If the pump was dead headed or someone put too much pressure onto hyd.s then that seal maybe damaged. If that is the culprit then you can replace that seal or the pump. they are not too bad of price 120 +/- or so bucks from states side supplier or go FedEX and buy one from china for 80 or 90.
You can also buy rebuild kits for these pumps for a 20 or 30 bucks which are really just the shaft seal and two formed rubber O-Rings that fit into the pump body. just be aware the pump can not be fully tightened down as it will bind up there needs to be a fraction of inch loose/slop between the plates and pump body.
Pump has 2 bolts that holds the body and end plates together and catty-corners are two longer bolts that bolt it to the tractor engine front drive gears. I rebuilt mine but didnt get it quite right and just put on a NEW pump. My brother Pressure Washed my tractor after he used it and the high pressure water stream went between body of pump and end plate cutting the seal... He figured the pump looked greasy so he sprayed it really well :/
You can also take some grease and put a little coating around the pump body (Aluminum part) and the steel ends on it (o-rings between the two) as a test to see if that stops the air sucking.
went & got some old picks post for ya,
FYI I think there were 2 types of pumps if I remember right, see pic above.
Mark
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Only lower the hydraulics with the engine running, otherwise you end up with empty cylinders and an overfull sump. When you lower the bucket with the engine NOT running, fluid only flows TO the sump, obviously raising the level. When lowering the bucket WITH the engine running, an equal amount of fluid is pumped to the opposite side of the cylinder - thus keeping the sump at the normal level. And a healthy suction screen should look like this:
//greg//
Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
One point that may not have been mentioned: If you are operating on a slope with the vent/fill plug on the downhill side it is common for the fluid to cover the inside of that opening and it will get pumped out of the vent when you operate the hydraulics. That is normal.
If your strainer is flattened there will not be enough screen area to allow proper flow to the pump and a starving pump will operate as you describe. If it flattened because it trapped a lot of debris you need to do a drain/refill of your system.
If your strainer is flattened there will not be enough screen area to allow proper flow to the pump and a starving pump will operate as you describe. If it flattened because it trapped a lot of debris you need to do a drain/refill of your system.
