Mowing jinma finish mower question.

[TSMART]

My 224 with 6 ft finish mower is now 4 years old. How often should oil be changed in the finish mower transfer case? i have never changed it...What kind of oil to use? Hot climate here, central florida.

 

[greg_g]

My 224 with 6 ft finish mower is now 4 years old. How often should oil be changed in the finish mower transfer case? i have never changed it...What kind of oil to use? Hot climate here, central florida.

I'd definitely consider using 85W140 down there, maybe even straight 140W. I don't like how thin the original 80W90 gets in the July/August heat, so I use 85W140.

And I change mine as soon as I see signs of emulsification. If that's an unfamiliar term, it's when water (usually from condensation) mixes with the gear oil. It forms a foamy and/or buttery consistency that isn't water and isn't oil. And it isn't good for the transmission either.

//greg//

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

How often should oil be changed in the finish mower transfer case? i have never changed it...What kind of oil to use? Hot climate here, central florida.

I have never been able to determine what weight gear oil comes in China gear boxes from the factory ??......... but always change it out prior to selling.

If you see / find water in the factory oil ???... try to find out why. The gear box has a vent so the gear box can breathe. Vent damaged allowing rain water to enter ??

Since you have never changed it ......... I would do so now.

It has been common for me to see SAE 90 & EP 90 recommend for mower gear boxes in paper work from Bushhog, Woods etc........

I would prob put 80W90 in it.

It would not hurt to change it once a year. Hours of use a year helps factor in when to change.


Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[TSMART]

Thanks, I will change immediately. Mine has a little window on the trans case back there, and I don't see any milky oil inside there so I hope I am OK. 80W90 sounds good because if it is not WAY hot here, then the grass isn't growing at all....

Now I wonder how much oil is in that case.

 

[greg_g]

Now I wonder how much oil is in that case.

Not much, cuz the fill level is only about halfway up the housing. Mine takes less than a quart.

//greg//

 

[Diamondpilot]

Most gear boxes like the ones on my mower, bush hog, and post hole digger have 3 plugs. One plug is the drain, one is the fill hole, and the other plug is what is called a sight plug. You drain the oil then when you are ready to refill replace the drain plug and remove the fill and sight plugs. Pour in oil slowly until it comes out the sight plug then replace the plugs.

Usually the sight plug is about 1/3 to 1/2 way up from the bottom of the gear box.

In your earlier post you mentioned a sight window so if thats the case you probably do not have a sight plug. Simply fill the gear box until the oil is half way up the sight window.

Chris

 

[TSMART]

Appreciate that guys. Thanks.

I do have another question which has been bugging me...so could I please get an education.

My car has power steering, it goes all the way from left to right, and the middle is straight ahead. It never varys. (of course)

Yet when I installed a suicide knob on my wheel, I found that straight ahead is never the same....anybody understand what I am getting at??? I mean straight ahead the wheel is in one position one day, but straight ahead the next day the steering wheel is in a different position. I just want to understand this better as this seems strange to me. I'll never know unless I ask!! ??? ???

 

[greg_g]

I'm not sure, but I think you're asking about your tractor steering - right? If so, that typically means your steering cylinder is bypassing. Usually fixed with a seal kit.

//greg//

 

[TSMART]

Yes, I was talking about the 224. I thought this was normal , as it has been this way for a long time, but I have had no loss of power steering. Just the malady I described...but now that I know this is NOT normal , (seal kit?) I will check into it. Thanks!

 

[psj12]

The steering in your tractor is purely hydraulic, where the steering in your car is hydro/mechanical. This means there is a mechanical connection from your steering wheel gear box to your steering tie rods. This is done on automobiles as a fail-safe so if the power steering fluid is lost the car will revert to regular old mechanical steering.

On your tractor if the hydraulic steering is lost your steering wheel will simply go round and round without affecting the front wheels at all. This also means any bypassing in the steering box or steer cylinder translates into differing steering wheel positions. Unless it is extreme, like having to constantly steer right or left, I would not worry about it. If you have a separate steer oil resevoir and pump you could go to a heavier hydraulic oil like AW-64 (30W) and it should help with some of the bypassing.

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

TSMART, psj12 is correct.
What I call.......... steering wheel straight away will never be the same with the type hyd steering you have on your tractor.

If you are not haveing any problems controling / steering the tractor with it running???? the odds are you don't have a problem.

The steering set up on your car verses your tractor ..... is salt & pepper.


Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[greg_g]

Unless it is extreme, like having to constantly steer right or left, I would not worry about it. If you have a separate steer oil resevoir and pump you could go to a heavier hydraulic oil like AW-64 (30W) and it should help with some of the bypassing.

I think you meant to type either AW46 or AW68, and they're both in 20W territory. If you want 30W, you have to move up to AW100.

But bypassing never gets better, only worse. So even if it's not currently problematic, it is a definite indicator that a repair will eventually be required. Some folks wait till they have to fix failures. Me, I prefer preventative maintenance to avoid failures. I had the same thing happen to me on a JM254 some years ago, but I got rid of the problem when I got rid of the tractor. If it was happening on one of my current tractors, I'd put in the seal kit now. https://affordabletractorsalesco.com/cart/sub_catalog_gallery.php?cid=1244&catid=106&picid=1398&category=Parts%20Center&sub_category=Hydraulics&scid=100

//greg//

 

[3RRL]

TSMART,
Parry describes the difference between autos and your tractor perfectly. I've had the same steering symptoms as you for 3 years now and at times even the "round and round" as he describes, when my steering fluid was low due to a leak. Perhaps Greg's suggestion of the repair kit is the answer, but on mine it seems to come and go. It steers perfectly when the tractor is cold and as it warms up, the steering is not as sharp and sometimes even hard to turn with a lot of resistance.

I had a leak on the hydraulic pump (mine has a separate pump and reservoir for steering) and when I fixed that, it was quite a bit better. But on occasion even now, it still does what I describe...but it's a lot better. I went to thicker fluid and it does make a difference. As far as the suicide knob, it's always moving position because of the purely hydraulic steering.

 

[greg_g]

I've had the same steering symptoms as you for 3 years now and at times even the "round and round" as he describes,

TSMART has one pump, the steering circuit is paralleled off the main loop. You and I have dedicated circuits for steering only. Yet neither of my current tractors have ever exhibited this tendency: >500 hours between them. I respectfully suggest that your steering cylinder may be bypassing intermittently as well.

Like I said, some folks follow the philosophy "if it works.....", but I'd personally rather fix before failure.

//greg//

 

[3RRL]

TSMART has one pump, the steering circuit is paralleled off the main loop. You and I have dedicated circuits for steering only. Yet neither of my current tractors have ever exhibited this tendency: >500 hours between them. I respectfully suggest that your steering cylinder may be bypassing intermittently as well.

Like I said, some folks follow the philosophy "if it works.....", but I'd personally rather fix before failure.

//greg//

I have to agree with you Greg.
It's recurring problem and resrvoir remains full. I have 560+hrs on it now so maybe time to take it apart and rebuild? Did I hear you mention there are kits for our cylinders available?
Thanks,

 

[greg_g]

Dunno Rob, the link I provided was to a Jinma parts source. But if the cylinders turn out to be the same, it should work. Otherwise there's good old Chip. I don't have a cylinder issue, but he might be able to help you with yours. I'll need to talk to him about a pump kit though.

I plan to pull my steering pump this winter, as the tractor often sits idle for days at a time. I'll disassemble it on the bench to see if anything obvious jumps out.

//greg//

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Are you sure it has to be the steering cylinder and not the "steering gear" ? In my km554 parts manual it shows a loop from the pump through the steering gear and a loop from the steering gear to the cylinder. I presume the pump loop is a power assist to the cylinder loop. It doesn't show what type of mechanism the steeing gear is but it's hard to imagine that it is even designed to provide the 100% positive seal required to index the steering wheel at all times.

In terms of behavior, this past weekend I roaded a 10 mile round trip to my friend's where I helped set a chimney pipe at his workshop with a boom pole on my loader. Going straight down the road the wheel stayed indexed. Whenever I made a corner and returned to straight the knob position changed significantly on the order of 90+ degrees. In a spot with a significant side slope there was a slow drift required to resist the tendency to castor downhill. I have AW46 in my steering system.

Brad

 

[psj12]

I also noticed when mowing, with my 554, in a straight line the wheel stayed pretty much stationary, but when I turned on either end of the field I have to continuously, slowly turn the wheel in the direction of turn in order to keep the turn in the same radius.
I have gone with the heavier oil in the steering unit and the issue became less pronounced but is still there, particularly when warm.

 

[greg_g]

I presume the pump loop is a power assist to the cylinder loop.

Nope, I believe what you're describing is simply the steering controller, located at the bottom of the steering wheel column. Based upon input from the steering wheel, it controls the direction of flow to/from the steering cylinder. Turn the steering wheel to the right > fluid flows TO the cylinder via one line/returns via the other > cylinder extends > the tires move to the right in proportion to the input. Turn the steering wheel in the other direction > flow in those two lines is reversed > cylinder retracts > tires reverse direction in proportion to the input.

Anyway - to address your question - yes. When considering whether the steering cylinder or the steering controller is bypassing, the odds definitely favor the cylinder. Besides, it's a helluva lot easier to put a seal kit in a cylinder, than it is to remove and troubleshoot the controller.

//greg//

 

[3RRL]

Nope, I believe what you're describing is simply the steering controller, located at the bottom of the steering wheel column. Based upon input from the steering wheel, it controls the direction of flow to/from the steering cylinder. Turn the steering wheel to the right > fluid flows TO the cylinder via one line/returns via the other > cylinder extends > the tires move to the right in proportion to the input. Turn the steering wheel in the other direction > flow in those two lines is reversed > cylinder retracts > tires reverse direction in proportion to the input.

Anyway - to address your question - yes. When considering whether the steering cylinder or the steering controller is bypassing, the odds definitely favor the cylinder. Besides, it's a helluva lot easier to put a seal kit in a cylinder, than it is to remove and troubleshoot the controller.

//greg//

I was looking for the answer myself, which one is bypassing?
I was hoping it was the cylinder too. With so many things to do around the new place, it's REALLY hard to take it off and start checking it when I have a million other things to do. I know I should. Mine works alright except the symptoms pj describes, like when it gets hotter out. So at this point, I have the tendency to use as is ... at least for the time being.