Jinma 284LE won't turn over

[markh1]

I shut my tractor off out on our property and it wouldn't start again. It didn't turn over there wasn't even a click or anything. The last 3 or 4 times I started it it turned over slower than normal.
I was able to start it by jumping across the starter so I brought it back to the house. I checked the fuse box, bypassed the clutch safety switch and checked the battery. The battery has a full charge. It did start 2 or 3 times with the key but inbetween it was nothing again. I have the ford ignition switch.
Any help would be appreciated.

Mark H

 

[RobJ]

sounds like a bad switch or contact somewhere.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Check all the grounds. Especially the ones around the instrument cluster and starter switch. Remove the paint and clean then try again.

Chris

 

[studor]

It must be a bad connection somewhere if you can start it with the "universal key". Do your lights and instruments work with the key in the on position? -- if so you know to start working through the connections to the switch and back. I would start at the starter and clean and tighten all the connections from there to the switch and back. Check those wonderfull battery connectors too -- they are a POS if they are stock and often loosen and create annoying intermittant problems -- hope you find it -- keep us posted
Steve

 

[erj]

Mark,
First check to see how much voltage you are getting to the small terminal on the starter solenoid when you turn the key to the Start position.
RonJ

 

[greg_g]

Follow the battery ground (-) cable to where it bolts to the tractor frame. Disconnect it. Grind the paint on the frame down to bare metal. Grind/sand the cable lug as required. Apply dielectric compound to lug/bolt/frame. Don't use dielectric grease, find the kind that skins over as it cures. Reassemble. Try starting again.

//greg//

 

[3RRL]

Yup, sounds like a bad ground to me too.
Definitely clean all your connections and reattach. The ground cable going to the frame is usually the culprit. Take an angle grinder and really grind where it bolts on to bare metal, super clean. I also use a star washer to "bite" into the metal frame.

 

[hbaird]

I now have a split lock or a star washer under all the power connections including the battery posts. It must be the vibration that causes so many loose connections.
Harold

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I get the same symptom from time to time. A rap on the starter solenoid gets me going again. It doesn't happen often enough for me to do anything about it. It seems to happen more when it's hot out.

 

[Marc L.]

Good day!

Same thing was happening to me also, I ended-up removing the starer and opening it. The selenoid plunger had some "white rust" build-up on it. I cleaned the plunger and lubricated the fork assembly with some bearing grease.

I also replaced the gaskets at both ends of the selenoid body (the original ones were cracked and moisture and water were getting in the starter).

when I reinstall the starter on, I went with the cleaning of all bolts and nuts and I did put on lock washers to increase the contact.

Good luck with the trouble shooting!

Marc