Jinma 284LE won't turn over

[markh1]

I shut my tractor off out on our property and it wouldn't start again. It didn't turn over there wasn't even a click or anything. The last 3 or 4 times I started it it turned over slower than normal.
I was able to start it by jumping across the starter so I brought it back to the house. I checked the fuse box, bypassed the clutch safety switch and checked the battery. The battery has a full charge. It did start 2 or 3 times with the key but inbetween it was nothing again. I have the ford ignition switch.
Any help would be appreciated.

Mark H

 

[RobJ]

sounds like a bad switch or contact somewhere.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Check all the grounds. Especially the ones around the instrument cluster and starter switch. Remove the paint and clean then try again.

Chris

 

[studor]

It must be a bad connection somewhere if you can start it with the "universal key". Do your lights and instruments work with the key in the on position? -- if so you know to start working through the connections to the switch and back. I would start at the starter and clean and tighten all the connections from there to the switch and back. Check those wonderfull battery connectors too -- they are a POS if they are stock and often loosen and create annoying intermittant problems -- hope you find it -- keep us posted
Steve

 

[erj]

Mark,
First check to see how much voltage you are getting to the small terminal on the starter solenoid when you turn the key to the Start position.
RonJ

 

[greg_g]

Follow the battery ground (-) cable to where it bolts to the tractor frame. Disconnect it. Grind the paint on the frame down to bare metal. Grind/sand the cable lug as required. Apply dielectric compound to lug/bolt/frame. Don't use dielectric grease, find the kind that skins over as it cures. Reassemble. Try starting again.

//greg//

 

[3RRL]

Yup, sounds like a bad ground to me too.
Definitely clean all your connections and reattach. The ground cable going to the frame is usually the culprit. Take an angle grinder and really grind where it bolts on to bare metal, super clean. I also use a star washer to "bite" into the metal frame.

 

[hbaird]

I now have a split lock or a star washer under all the power connections including the battery posts. It must be the vibration that causes so many loose connections.
Harold

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I get the same symptom from time to time. A rap on the starter solenoid gets me going again. It doesn't happen often enough for me to do anything about it. It seems to happen more when it's hot out.

 

[Marc L.]

Good day!

Same thing was happening to me also, I ended-up removing the starer and opening it. The selenoid plunger had some "white rust" build-up on it. I cleaned the plunger and lubricated the fork assembly with some bearing grease.

I also replaced the gaskets at both ends of the selenoid body (the original ones were cracked and moisture and water were getting in the starter).

when I reinstall the starter on, I went with the cleaning of all bolts and nuts and I did put on lock washers to increase the contact.

Good luck with the trouble shooting!

Marc

 

[markh1]

Thanks for the suggestions. I won't have time until the weekend to work on it.
On the solenoid how much voltage should I get. Took my starter apart before and cleaned the windings and it started better than it did when I first got it.

Mark H

 

[erj]

Mark,
You should get 12volts to the small terminal of the solenoid when the key is in the start position.
In case it may be of any help to you, here is a picture that I made for myself to help remember what happens in the Starter area of the tractor.
RonJ

 

[Diamondpilot]

Those are some good pictures and very helpful. Thanks for posting them. I struggled with a bad starter from day one. I broke down and bought the aftermarket gear reductions starter 2 years ago and all I can say is wow. It now starts first time every time.

The starter and the lower radiator hose heater are the best money I have spent on my Jinma.

Chris

 

[YukonKing]

One thing to keep in mind when checking voltage at any power terminal is to use a 12 volt test light. because even if you have 12 on the volt meter does not mean that you will it in the on position, as there is draw on it. All of these tests will tend to lead to poor connections as opposed to a actual failure in the switch.

I have now had my JM254 for a year, most of which just it has been stored out in the elements. My starting issue was a poor corroded + terminal on the starter itself. They must stored completed Jinmas outside in china.

The other posibility is the clutch safety switch by your left foot. Mine actually broke/bent on the bracket, because the switch bottomed out before the clutch pedal. (I was doing alot of loader work and the next time I went to start it, it was dead). There are two wires leading to this switch, tie them together and try it. Keep in mind you can now start in gear (dangerous).

I love my JM254. Up in the Yukon we are now full winter, -15c and snowing.

 

[talon86]

I had the same problem last summer. My fix was not the starter or selonoid. It was the safety switch that is engaged when you press on the clutch. The switch was bad. To confirm, touch a screwdriver or other metal to the starter (where the + lead from the battery comes in) and the other connection on the starter. This will "hot wire" the tractor. If it tries to start, then I would guess the safety switch is the problem. You can hardwire the switch for a simple quick fix until you can replace the switch.

Hope this helps.

REMEMBER TO MAKE SURE THE TRACTOR IS IN NEUTRAL BEFORE THE "HOT WIRE" ATTEMPT. THE TRACTOR COULD START OR JUMP FORWARD AND RUN YOU DOWN.

----------------------------------

Already suggested in previous post....I didn't notice it before submitting. Sorry for the duplicate solution.

 

[markh1]

I have had other things come up so haven't had time to check anything. I took the starter and solendoid off and cleaned them both and they are ready to put back on then I can continue checking.
Will post results when I figure out what it is.
Thanks for the suggestions.

Mark H

 

[markh1]

Took apart starter and solenoid and cleaned both. Battery at post was 12 volts. The small terminal on the solenoid was 10 volts with the key in the start position. What do I need to check now. Thanks again for the information. Mark H

 

[greg_g]

Yeah, that's typical for Chinese wiring. Mine was even worse than that. 10 volts at the solenoid won't give the pinion much of a kick - and I don't think it will even work below 9v. On a cold day it gets even worse.

I installed a an inexpensive NAPA starter relay and some 10 gauge wire. Now I get full voltage to the solenoid, and she cranks first time-every time.

If you need help identifying the solenoid - or wiring it up - just let me know. If you're interested, I installed a relay for my glow plugs too.

//greg//

 

[markh1]

Yes, I would like more information on the relay.
The first time I jumped the starter with a screwdriver it turned over. Now I get nothing, not even a spark. I cleaned all of the connections on both the battery and starter.

Mark H

 

[greg_g]

No problem. Here's what the relays look like that I put on my TS354C; one for the starter, one for the glow plugs. The diagram shows how to wire in the starter relay. Note the wire that says "from switch". It's ok to use OE wire there, but when it comes to conducting current - bigger is better. So you might optionally consider replacing that OE wire with 10AWG stranded.

If you like this idea, we can talk about wiring in another relay to get more current to your glow plugs as well.

//greg//