Fawken
Platinum Member
Is it a joystick? They're reasonable at SurplusCenter.com. and they're not that hard to rebuild either- your choice.
Loader Jinma 284 Loader will not lift up.
SPIKER
Elite Member
Sounds like the pump possibly the gears in the front case. Often the QDs pop will blow the pump housing or the seal. However the did the squeal stop the eng from turning/stall? If it kept running then there is damage some place in the pump drive or the shaft seal & now might be sucking air and not pumping.
make sure the inlet and outlet lines are hooked up correctly too when mine came in they could be interchanged and swapping inlet and outlet wont work.
make sure the inlet and outlet lines are hooked up correctly too when mine came in they could be interchanged and swapping inlet and outlet wont work.
I ordered a new valve controller off of Amazon it looks identical to the Prince model on it. No where on it is a part number after a lot of reading online I am thinking it is a match. Was going to order a seal kit for the pump but Keno told me the kits they have in every one is complaining the shaft seal does not fit. I might order one from Afordable Tractors but it will take another week to get to me.
This Tractor is a money pit LOL. Started out my neighbor was given this Tractor for some work he did for a friend and it had sit for two years, then we discovered it consuming oil like a siv and it had a crack cylinder wall. The deal with my neighbor he would let me use it if I kicked in for small parts and maintenance when discovered it needed a motor well I offered my neighbor that I would buy an engine with ownership of 50/50 and if he died or moved all interest would be left to me. Now replacement motor was $3,600 then found needed a new clutch assembly another 400 etc the bill for it keeps racking up. My neighbor now has said its all mine he wants no more with it and jokingly he saids after we get it going he wants it out of his garage and to make sure I park it on the other side of my house so he doesn't have to see it LOL. Time we get done with it I will have new tractor literally I guess. This biggest pain besides the cost and labor we are putting in it is the waiting game for shipping for every part we discover we need.
This Tractor is a money pit LOL. Started out my neighbor was given this Tractor for some work he did for a friend and it had sit for two years, then we discovered it consuming oil like a siv and it had a crack cylinder wall. The deal with my neighbor he would let me use it if I kicked in for small parts and maintenance when discovered it needed a motor well I offered my neighbor that I would buy an engine with ownership of 50/50 and if he died or moved all interest would be left to me. Now replacement motor was $3,600 then found needed a new clutch assembly another 400 etc the bill for it keeps racking up. My neighbor now has said its all mine he wants no more with it and jokingly he saids after we get it going he wants it out of his garage and to make sure I park it on the other side of my house so he doesn't have to see it LOL. Time we get done with it I will have new tractor literally I guess. This biggest pain besides the cost and labor we are putting in it is the waiting game for shipping for every part we discover we need.
doxford jim
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2007
- Messages
- 1,004
- Location
- British Columbia, Canada
- Tractor
- 1959 MF-65 sold, 2007 Jinma 554 diesel.
The FEL valve itself could be out of adjustment. Behind each metal can at the back of the valve block, are springs that help the valves to self centre. They can come loose and need to be retightened. It is a simple job and can e done in minutes.
Remove the can covers (two screws). Tighten the Philips headed screw and replace can cover. Do the two valves and then retry. This is what I did when my FEL ceased operation and it fixed the problem I had. Cost you nothing (no money), quick and easy and a real "do it yourself" fix.
HTH
Remove the can covers (two screws). Tighten the Philips headed screw and replace can cover. Do the two valves and then retry. This is what I did when my FEL ceased operation and it fixed the problem I had. Cost you nothing (no money), quick and easy and a real "do it yourself" fix.
HTH
woodchipper
Silver Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2011
- Messages
- 247
- Location
- Campbell's Bay, Qu饕ec, Canada
- Tractor
- 1965 JD 710; 2000 Universal 643DT 4wd, loader, cab with heat:), 1983 MF 50F Backhoe 2wd.
What about air entrapment? The lift cylinders do extend up to a certain lenght. If it goes back down (not holding) that could be the issue. I would also double check the fluid level.
A hydraulic pressure test may be in order to see what the pump is giving you.
A hydraulic pressure test may be in order to see what the pump is giving you.
erj
Gold Member
Zman,
You didn't respond to my question. Were the lines that were not connected the In and Out lines for the FEL control valve that are mentioned in quicksandfarmer's note?
When you removed the pump, was the driveshaft damaged?
My suggestions:
1. Check the centering springs that Jim Doxford mentions in his note.
2. Install a pressure gauge, at least temporarily, to see whether you are getting enough pressure to actually do anything with the FEL.
Below is a drawing of a Prince controller that may help you. The centering springs are on the left side.
You didn't respond to my question. Were the lines that were not connected the In and Out lines for the FEL control valve that are mentioned in quicksandfarmer's note?
When you removed the pump, was the driveshaft damaged?
My suggestions:
1. Check the centering springs that Jim Doxford mentions in his note.
2. Install a pressure gauge, at least temporarily, to see whether you are getting enough pressure to actually do anything with the FEL.
Below is a drawing of a Prince controller that may help you. The centering springs are on the left side.
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Yes was deadheading the pump couldn't circulate. But took the pump apart and no visible damage, pump driver key hole looks ok, no excessive oil in the engine case. Talking with Keno it is rare to dead head the pump and it survive but can happen. I am wondering though maybe something with the pumps shaft seal I can not see that might be sucking air in like Spiker mentioned. What I have read other places a damaged seal would push oil into the engine past the pump driver though that would be the opposite of sucking in air. I am thinking I might order a spare pump and a seal kit for this one. I have the new valve controller unit coming Monday. I am going to try that and if that works I later on going to take the old one apart try get it working for a spare I don't want to mess with it though right now because no documentation or videos on how to service them and going blindly I don't want to more damage I want to make sure the new one is the right replacement. Also people mention putting new orings in them I don't see Prince Oring parts or orings for sale and assume they are proprietary not just orings you find in the plumbing department at a hardware store.
SPIKER
Elite Member
FYI:
these pumps are cheap (price wise) so buy a new one and toss it on... The seal kit is not pricy however rebuilding one is a specific task and you can not tighten the bolts down. The O-Rings are the seal and tighten it up too much and it locks the pump. they need assembled very loose and installed with a full of heavier gear oil. start up eng with it on and fluid down to pump and slowly tighten up till all leaks stop and pump is still turning over.
mine (pump) was damaged by my brother pressure washing it and directing full spray at a "oily pump" the water damaged seals left it start to suck air and it would not hold prime & dripped heavily when running afterwards. I ordered new pump and kit, installed the kit and it still had issues so swapped in the new pump and didn't look back...
Mark
these pumps are cheap (price wise) so buy a new one and toss it on... The seal kit is not pricy however rebuilding one is a specific task and you can not tighten the bolts down. The O-Rings are the seal and tighten it up too much and it locks the pump. they need assembled very loose and installed with a full of heavier gear oil. start up eng with it on and fluid down to pump and slowly tighten up till all leaks stop and pump is still turning over.
mine (pump) was damaged by my brother pressure washing it and directing full spray at a "oily pump" the water damaged seals left it start to suck air and it would not hold prime & dripped heavily when running afterwards. I ordered new pump and kit, installed the kit and it still had issues so swapped in the new pump and didn't look back...
Mark
That is very good to know thank you, Wow someone needs to make book on these. Early twenties working on my own vehicles Haynes manuals were great they need to do Jinma Tractor Repair manual LOL