jinma 224 clutch adjustment

[TSMART]

The clock reads 440 hours on my Jinma now, bought new in 2005. With the help of a lot of folks here, I have been able to do all repairs myself.

My clutch is "grabby", and needs adjustment. I am really apprehensive about doing that myself; never had two stages on a car....can anybody link me to this procedure or some pics so I can determine if it's beyond my skills? I would not dare replace a clutch myself, just for the record. Clutches are not cheap!



Thanks.

 

[TSMART]

When I said "grabby", I mean forward motion doesn't occur till the pedal is almost all the way out, then it grabs very quickly. I do have 1" free play.

 

[greg_g]

Well, start by verifying or establishing the correct gap between the clutch release fingers and the throw out bearing face. I think for your tractor the gap should be between 2mm and 3mm (that's about 0.08" to 0.12"). You adjust that gap with the linkage rod that connects the pedal with the lever that sticks out the side of the transmission. There's a threaded yoke on the end. Determine which way to turn the yoke on the rod to achieve the desired gap. If grinding gears result, screw in the pedal stop bolt until the pedal travel is sufficient to stop the noise.

//greg//

 

[TSMART]

OK. I see the stop bolt and the yoke to adjust. There's a plate (prox 4x6")with 4 bolts in it located directly above the yoke. Is that my view access point to the clutch? No faking that I am a novice so thanks.

 

[greg_g]

You are correct. I think your tractor has one of those plates on either side, they might even be vented - I don't remember. If you remove the one on the left (as viewed from the operator seat), look in and to the right. You'll see a silver-grey bearing case (hopefully there will be no signs of bluing). Make sure it's free, you should be able to reach in and spin it with a finger tip. Immediately to the left of the bearing you may see one of three clutch release fingers. You can usually only see one finger at a time. To view the others, you must rotate the flywheel. That can be done with a socket wrench on the crankcase pulley nut. This is most easily (and safely) accomplished with the compression release open (and the tractor in neutral or course).

Anyway. Each of those three fingers is supposed equidistant from the face of that bearing, by a distance of 2.5mm (+/- 0.5mm). If the gap is already within tolerance, we can move on. If not, turning the yoke shortens/lengthens the pull rod - which in turn increases/decreases the gap.


//greg//

 

[TSMART]

Thanks.

I will check that out after work tomorrow.

 

[Affordable]

If you run into problems give me a call,I will try to help you with it

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales Co.
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

OK. I see the stop bolt and the yoke to adjust. There's a plate (prox 4x6")with 4 bolts in it located directly above the yoke. Is that my view access point to the clutch?

No !!, if you remove that plate you will have gear oil poring out !!



By the way you are describing the way your clutch is engageing does deserve checking/adjusting the clutch. There are several things that could cause it to grab/engage near the top of the pedal.

No way I can tell why it is grabby but, I can tell you that the stop bolt has nothing to do with it.


Contact Tommy or myself to help you verfiy your clutch adjustment.


Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[biggerten]

The clock reads 440 hours on my Jinma now, bought new in 2005. With the help of a lot of folks here, I have been able to do all repairs myself.

My clutch is "grabby", and needs adjustment. I am really apprehensive about doing that myself; never had two stages on a car....can anybody link me to this procedure or some pics so I can determine if it's beyond my skills? I would not dare replace a clutch myself, just for the record. Clutches are not cheap!



Thanks.

Check out Ron's website, lot's of pictures.

Jinma Dealer, Wood Chipper , Compact Jinma Tractors

 

[20 20]

Ranch is a very knowledgable poster, he has helped me in the past, great people

 

[TSMART]

OK...so exactly where is it that I can see into the clutch to see the fingers?

Theres the plate on the clutch pedal side, above the yoke as I mentioned.
Theres another one, but much bigger on the accelerator pedal side also.

I have checked a lot of pics out but can't find it tho I must be looking right at it.

I bought feeler gages to check out the space between the plate and the fingers. Auto parts store had nothing in the .08 size, they said i must gang several together to add up to the correct .10-.12 gap.

Please note that for every 5 minute question I ask I spend at least an hour investigating on line so I dont ask dumb questions. I even checked out ctoa, no pics of this plate there, tho there is a complete description of how to adjust clutch.

Our Jinma dealer closed a year ago so I am on my own. Local Kubota and MF dealers seem very disinterested in helping me out.

Again, thanks for your help.
Thanks.

 

[greg_g]

...the stop bolt has nothing to do with it.

True, in that the stop bolt may have nothing to do with his stated problem. But depending upon the nature of the corrective adjustment(s), the stop bolt may have to adjusted at the end. Too much pedal is hard on the springs, not enough pedal and the PTO clutch won't completely disengage. Plus, proper pedal adjustment doesn't favor one clutch or the other. In the end you want the first half of the pedal travel to be PTO, the second half to be main drive.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

OK...so exactly where is it that I can see into the clutch to see the fingers?.

I thought you were describing the inspection window, sorry. Do you by any chance have a front end loader installed? If yes, then those windows are underneath where the loader mounts attach to the bellhousing. It's handier to work from both sides, but not mandatory. You can drop one loader mount to expose the window.

The inspection windows are under both part #10s. One right, one left. In this diagram, they're not vented. In fact, the covers may not even be installed under your loader mounts.

And you may find it difficult to get a conventional feeler gauge to work. I use a piece of heavy gauge wire of the appropriate thickness.

//greg//

 

[SPIKER]

Go here: JinmaInfo4

John hasnt been around in a while he used to stop in a good bit here and CTOA. He has a great little web site setup for us china tractor guys

Mark