Jimna low loader lift.

[runfastman]

I have a 2006 Jimna 284. When using the loader, many times it can't lift the load. (dirt in a bank, pulling out bushes)
When this happens, it doesn't even seem to load the engine down at all. I was told if then engine isn't being loaded down, then I need to adjust the hydraulic pump. I can't see how to do this.
Is my pump bad, or does the pressure just need to be turned up somehow?

Thanks,

 

[Diamondpilot]

There is no way to adjust the pump. Does your 3 point work fine? If so its either your pressure relief valve in the FEL valve or cylinders that are bypassing internally.

You need to get a gauge and check your pressure first.

Chris

 

[runfastman]

" Does your 3 point work fine?"
The 3 point Hydraulic connection in the back? I don't know, I have never used it.
The only thing I use is the loader and a tiller and the tiller PTO seems to work fine.

 

[runfastman]

What should my pressure be, an where do I hook up to test it?

 

[greg_g]

" Does your 3 point work fine?"
The 3 point Hydraulic connection in the back? I don't know, I have never used it.
The only thing I use is the loader and a tiller and the tiller PTO seems to work fine.

Not the connection, the actual rear lift. And since you use a tiller, you clearly use your rear lift. So the question remains - does it work to your satisfaction?

//greg//

 

[runfastman]

The rear lift works OK. It sometimes takes a long time to warm up and start working good.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

The rear lift works OK. It sometimes takes a long time to warm up and start working good.

That and the slow loader would be consistent with a clogged hydraulic filter.

 

[runfastman]

That is what I thought at first, but I replaced the filter, and no change. I should have mentioned that before.

 

[RonMar]

That and the slow loader would be consistent with a clogged hydraulic filter.

Slow loader yes, weak loader no.

It does sound like the loader relief valve is leaking past, no pressure = no strength. This could also be an issue with the pump not building proper pressure. You really need a guage "T"d into the line between pump and loader valve to confirm and or troubleshoot this further. You are looking for the system to build 2200 PSI on the pump side of the valve when the loader is operated till one of it's cylinder reaches an end stop.

SLow to start to work can be from a couple of issues. IS it worse when cold? What hydraulic fluid are you running in the system. IF there are any leaks on the suction line between the pump and reservoir, it could take a while to pull fluid to the pump especially when cold as it is far easier to pull air instead. A clogged strainer or filter could make this situation worse.

 

[runfastman]

Can some show me where to buy a guage, I don't know exactly what I need.

Also, where is the relief valve located?

Thanks

 

[erj]

Here is a picture of the gauge and where it should be located.

 

[greg_g]

You may also be using hydraulic fluid that is too thick and/or contaminated. Many owners have drained/flushed the horrid stuff that comes with the tractor and replaced it with proper AW32/ISO32 hydraulic fluid.

//greg//

 

[Rich Waugh]

You can get a gauge from Bailey's Pressure Gauges or other hydraulic supply. Or probably from one of the dealers who advertise here. The pressure relief valve is located in the loader control valve. On the old style Jinma control valve it is the larger protuberance on the bottom of the valve block. If you take it apart, be aware that it is under spring pressure and stuff may go flying of you're not watching. Don't mess with it until you have a pressure gauge installed though, and check what the parts manual shows before tearing into it. If in doubt about your abilities, get help from a pro - hydraulics aren't mysterious but they can be dangerous to the uninitiated.

 

[runfastman]

Thanks, this is great.
Do you happen to know what size and thread pipe it is?

My hydraulic fluid is fine, I replaced it.

 

[RonMar]

Thanks, this is great.
Do you happen to know what size and thread pipe it is?

My hydraulic fluid is fine, I replaced it.

But what did you replace it with? AW-32 hydraulic oil, or UTF?

 

[runfastman]

But what did you replace it with? AW-32 hydraulic oil, or UTF?

"Tractor Hydraulic Fluid". What they guy said at the C-A-L Ranch store.

 

[Rich Waugh]

In your location, I think I'd want AW-32 hydraulic fluid instead. I just don't have much faith in those "universal" fluids.

 

[Bob Rooks]

"Tractor Hydraulic Fluid". What they guy said at the C-A-L Ranch store.

And the guy in the ranch store got his lubrication engineering degree where?

 

[greg_g]

"Tractor Hydraulic Fluid". What they guy said at the C-A-L Ranch store.

That stuff is formulated for common sump tractors where gear boxes and hydraulics share the same fluid. Yours has separate sumps, meaning two different kinds of fluid; gear oil and hydraulic fluid. In your case, THF is too thick for the hydraulics and too thin for the gears. Drain and refill the hydraulics with AW32, If you don't see AW32 locally, ISO32 is the same thing. To be safe, you might also want to drain the gear boxes and differentials as well, and refill them with 80W90 gear oil.

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

What Rich, Bob and Greg said. "Tractor Hydraulic Fluid" or "Universal Tractor Fluid" is too thick for a simple hydraulic system. It is closer to 30wt motor oil and is designed for hydrostatic drive transmissions. This is why you get the slow response/need to warm up before the hydraulics all work correctly. Your hydraulic pump was designed to make pressure, not pull suction, and it is way more difficult to pull that thicker fluid thru the feedpipe from the sump than it would be to pull a much thinner AW-32 hydraulic fluid...