jd400 yellow tractor with backhoe- shuttle shift misery

TonyDeb · Feb 22, 2017

Thanks JB, do I pressurize with air at the forward test port and see if it will engage in forward with engine running how else would I know if the clutch engaged?

jb1390 · Feb 22, 2017

TonyDeb said:
Thanks JB, do I pressurize with air at the forward test port and see if it will engage in forward with engine running how else would I know if the clutch engaged?

No, doing it with the engine running is a great way to run yourself over. I would remove the valve on the side and apply directly to the line behind the valve body. You will hear the leak if one exists. Compare forward to reverse - I bet reverse will seal up tight and you will hear forward leaking quite a bit of air internally.

TonyDeb · Feb 22, 2017

Roger that! Pretty sure I will find it leaking since the pressure is low with two different valves. I imagine checking again with air when case is split will make it easier to find the leak.

TonyDeb · Feb 26, 2017

Update: split tractor and as JB suspected forward tube didn't hold any compressed air pressure. I was thinking it would be just the O ring where forward tube goes into housing but I also suspect two rings and oil sleeve with the 4 holes which has a slight grove on it may be the issue. I think I should change them as well as the copper shaft bushing. Not sure of best way to get oil sleeve out? Anything else I should be considering? Thanks!

jd110 · Feb 28, 2017

I would also disassemble the clutch packs and inspect them. Replace seals on the piston inside also. The oil sleeve is tricky to replace. I have seen some guys run a bead of weld around the inside of the sleeve to "shrink" it. That works but I don't like all the dirt/weld slag going everywhere. I have had good luck with a lady slipper bar. Stick a bolt or pin in the oil holes in the sleeve and pry against the bolt to get it started. work you way around to keep it coming out evenly. Once it starts moving, you can get a pry point on the sleeve itself rather that using the bolt or pin. Use care to avoid damaging the bore in the housing. When installing the new one, apply some Loctite to outside diameter.

TonyDeb · Mar 10, 2017

To get oil sleeve out I ground down a grade 8 5/16 bolt. The long narrow side I slid up into the top hole and let short stubby side lay in bottom hole. Then a pipe with sledgehammer from back side. Came out straight. Almost done putting tractor back together. Will give update in a few days when done.

jd110 · Mar 10, 2017

TonyDeb said:
View attachment 501567 View attachment 501568

To get oil sleeve out I ground down a grade 8 5/16 bolt. The long narrow side I slid up into the top hole and let short stubby side lay in bottom hole. Then a pipe with sledgehammer from back side. Came out straight. Almost done putting tractor back together. Will give update in a few days when done.

I like your special tool for removing the sleeve. You need to get a patent on that! Definitely easier to remove if you have clutch housing removed. I usually am working from one side from front side. If forward is only problem, usually no need to split between trans housing and clutch housing. Seems that since heaviest work is done pushing forward, don't have much problem with reverse.

TonyDeb · Mar 19, 2017

Tractor went together okay. Wish I had something better then a couple of floor jacks to line up clutch housing. That was a bear. I'm still not sure where exactly in the forward circuit it was leaking. Tractor works fine now in reverse and forward. We got 18" snow in CT this week and I haven't yet put a pressure gauge on the forward test port but it bogs down and will stall with brakes held. Not slipping at all. One thing though, it still wouldn't hold air pressure completely like the reverse side after I changed everything on the forward side. It sounded like it was holding some pressure but not great. Took the lines and clutch pack apart and back together a few times but it always leaked. Figured it was leaking from a crack in the case before bushing with 4 holes but I fabricated some plugs for all 4 holes and it held pressure good to that point. New 4 hole bushing, rings and new gaskets in clutch pack. All put together nice and wet with fluid. Very happy its holding hydraulic pressure and working as it should but stumped on why it wouldn't hold air pressure.