Egon
Epic Contributor
Temperature & electrical components that get hot???
Neighbor had a Allis WD that would just stop out of the blue. It acted like it ran out of fuel but we would pull the fuel bowl and it had plenty and everything was very clean. Except, one time, while looking in the tank, I saw something different. It was a piece of brass shim stock about 3/4" square. Every once in a while the shim would get close to the outlet and get sucked against it. By the time we would pull the bowl, it had floated away. At least your problem is more consistent.
Thanks... While I appreciate your attempts at curing my woes, that's more headache than I can handle right now but I will say this: Imagine you are cutting the grass at a nice clip when somebody runs up behind you and turns the key off. That's what it SOUNDS like, no coughing or sputtering but I will say this; I have been able to keep it running by being real quick and pulling back the throttle and hitting the PTO switch. Once or twice this kept it going and I was able to wait a minute at idle and then throttle up, but only for a few minutes before it died.
At this point, I will probably fix a temp gravity fuel tank around my neck and watch the strange looks of my neighbors.
the fuel cutoff solenoid is the only electrical device that could stop the fuel, that was replaced, and the voltage monitored and the solenoid gets constant power, so it's not an electrical problem..You keep arguing against electronics or anything else other than fuel, but this implies differently. If that PTO switch or some other switch, safety or electrical component, wire or connector heats up with time and closes, or opens, it could cause these symptoms.
I'm also wondering about airflow that slowly gets restricted over time.
What I don't understand is how consistent the timing seems to be. Did somebody install a cutoff timer when you weren't looking forcing you to take breaks?
the fuel cutoff solenoid is the only electrical device that could stop the fuel, that was replaced, and the voltage monitored and the solenoid gets constant power, so it's not an electrical problem..
Diesel... no electronics except fuel solenoid and it was replaced.
No safety shut offs or such items?
UPDATE: Today I cut more very tall grass putting a moderate load on the motor. I started cutting and in exactly 55 minutes it died. The whole time I was cutting three things were being tested; First the fuel cap was unscrewed and was loose checking for a failure to vent. (This was done before but I'm starting to doubt my own results.) Also the test light was connected to the fuel solenoid and was brightly lit in my view testing any voltage failure to the now NEW solenoid. And listening to another contributor, I checked the transparent fuel filter housing making sure it was full before and after dying.
Upon dying the light never even flickered and stayed lit until the ignition was turned off. Also the fuel cap was still completely loose eliminating any fuel vacuum issues. And lastly, the filter housing was still completely full of fuel.
I waited 1 minute, restarted it and finished my cutting consuming exactly ten more minutes. It did not die again today. What am I missing here?
UPDATE> Ok, my test lights are complete and here are the results:
The white solenoid lead is the startup power. It does in fact come on with the starter and then go out. The red lead is the hold, and it also comes on when is running and stays on.
So, I finished cutting the grass this morning and was out of work for "overheat testing" so I started in and sat in my yard watching for the light bulb to go out when the engine died. Sure enough 30 minutes later it died and behold the light stayed lit until turning the ignition switch off. So my take is it's not the shut off solenoid but somewhere else, although if I had not just replaced it I would have suspected it to be bad.