JD Brush Hog: Can’t access bolt to take blades off.

   / JD Brush Hog: Can’t access bolt to take blades off.
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Looks like the well-paid technicians at Frontier put the access hole in the wrong spot.

I was trying to be nice and give them the benefit of the doubt, but you could be right! That would definitely be my luck lol
 
   / JD Brush Hog: Can’t access bolt to take blades off. #12  
Can't tell from the pic how much head room you have above the
1 1/2" nut, but sometimes you can finesse an unmounted socket from the side when a mounted socket can't be tilted enough. If you can't quite finesse it on, and the socket is deeper than the nut thickness, maybe shorten the socket on a belt sander or with an abrasive cutoff wheel.

That said, if your field is stubbly afterwards, it might be from the tractor wheels flattening the weeds and they can't pop back up fast enough before the cutter gets there. Also, more overlap between passes helps with the weeds that fall just inside the cutter's footprint. And cutting in reverse with a round-back cutter pushes some uncut weeds off to the side.

Personally, I think rotary cutters do more pulverizing than cutting, so lawnmower-like sharpness isn't important, and it won't stay sharp for long anyway. I've never resharpened my blades and they still seem to do OK.
 
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   / JD Brush Hog: Can’t access bolt to take blades off. #13  
I would get a hole saw the same size as the hole. Take the pilot bit out if you have to. Set drill on high and enter the hole at an angle to make it egg shaped. Feed the saw with light pressure or it will grab. Touch, touch, touch until it goes through.
 
   / JD Brush Hog: Can’t access bolt to take blades off. #14  
Should be some tool rental places around there that can rent you an angle grinder.
 
   / JD Brush Hog: Can’t access bolt to take blades off. #15  
Thank you for the kind words! I’m not dissuaded at all... I’ve learned to be creative to work around my physical and fiscal limitations because I’ll grow old waiting on a man to come help lol blocks, jacks, jack stands, pry/cheater bars, ratchets, pullies and Google are girls’ best friends working in a man’s world!

I’m lucky enough to have an awesome 3/4 drive Milwaukee impact (seriously LOVE it!) and it hasn’t failed me yet on some large ancient/rusty bolts after a quick application of some penetrating oil or another.

The one thing I don’t have is an angle grinder. My old corded one took a crap which is why I’m trying to get the blades off. I do have a spare set of new blades and can use my bench grinder on the old ones until I can snag another grinder. I already asked a few friends if they had one I could borrow but no such luck. What would be the best way to enlarge the opening? I started to try with my sawzall but it’s rather difficult (and a bit sketchy safety wise) given that it’s in channel that holds the tail wheel bar. I probably need to enlarge it a good 1/4-1/2”.
YOU might be able to get a hole saw, and drill/cut new hole off to side if there is room, one with slight better position to get sockets onto nuts....

Dale
 
   / JD Brush Hog: Can’t access bolt to take blades off. #16  
My Frontier is an RC2048. Haven't had that problem on mine. Before I'd remove that center bolt to take the whole rotating assembly down, I'd look at either grinding or cutting away enough of that metal where the access hole is to get your socket onto the nuts. Don't think you (nor I) could handle that whole mess.

On mine, the bolts (through from the bottom, held in place by a locking protrusion that matches up with a hole to keep the bolt from rotating) sometimes get locked up a bit by that locking protrusion (don't know what the proper name for it is). Often have to give the bolt a wap with a hammer and short socket extension to get the bolt to go through. Usually, I put the nut back on a bit to keep from damaging the bolt end to where the nut won't go back on. Nut is easily removed by hand once the bolt drops.

The Frontier is better than the prior LX-4 I had because the stump jumper stays in place.

Hope you have about a 6 ft piece of pipe to put over your 3/4" drive socket handle as a "torque" wrench.
 
   / JD Brush Hog: Can’t access bolt to take blades off. #17  
Best bet for enlarging the hole would be to use a mag mount drill with the appropriate annular cutter, or perhaps a 40A plasma cutter. Is there a steel fab shop near you that could open the hole up? Recutting the hole would be a 10 minute job with an annular cutter or plasma. Any neighbors or friends have a plasma cutter? If i were nearby, I'd tote my plasma over and have it done in 10 minutes. Unfortunately Dallas TX area is a 12hr drive from TN.
 
   / JD Brush Hog: Can’t access bolt to take blades off. #19  
Need a side grinder. Maybe could sharpen the blades in place. Removes metal much quicker than bench grinder. Don’t cost much and good for lots of other chores.

If need to remove blades, switch to a cutting disc and “V” notch the access hole thru the deck to get to the nut. $3 and 1 minute job. Not sure if accessing alignment is manufacturer flaw or damage? Might take penetration oil and heat to get the nut loose. Having a helper for R&R helps too.

Got to have tools to work. I’ll bet on brains over brawn every time.
 
   / JD Brush Hog: Can’t access bolt to take blades off. #20  
Harbor Freight tools sell a low cost angle grinder ... Like about $10. It won't stand constant use, but for a couple of blades ... It'll do.

When I changed blades on my cutter, it took some heat on one of the bolts. I replaced the pair of bolts/nuts and you should too. If the blade bolt breaks, the blade becomes a lethal projectile.
 
 

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