JD Brush Hog: Can’t access bolt to take blades off.

[piaffepony]

I have a Frontier RC2072 cutter and the blades need to be sharpened badly. Manual says take the tail wheel bar off to expose the access port, turn the blade pan by hand to locate the 1 1/2” bolt to remove the blade.

I’m guessing there is a small dent in the pan because I don’t have enough room to fit my socket over the bolt.

Will I need to replace the pan or can I get a few more seasons out of it? If I don’t have to replace it, what’s the quickest way to get those bolts off so I can sharpen those blades? Also, manual says “I must replace mounting hardware when reattaching the blades”??? Not sure which hardware it’s referring too exactly.

If I have to take the pan off with the blades attached, how heavy is it? (I’m a 120lb woman doing this alone. Upper-body strength isn’t exactly my forte lol)

 

[fried1765]

I have a Frontier RC2072 cutter and the blades need to be sharpened badly. Manual says take the tail wheel bar off to expose the access port, turn the blade pan by hand to locate the 1 1/2” bolt to remove the blade.

I’m guessing there is a small dent in the pan because I don’t have enough room to fit my socket over the bolt.

Will I need to replace the pan or can I get a few more seasons out of it? If I don’t have to replace it, what’s the quickest way to get those bolts off so I can sharpen those blades? Also, manual says “I must replace mounting hardware when reattaching the blades”??? Not sure which hardware it’s referring too exactly.

If I have to take the pan off with the blades attached, how heavy is it? (I’m a 120lb woman doing this alone. Upper-body strength isn’t exactly my forte lol)View attachment 691908


View attachment 691909

I have a Frontier RC2072 cutter and the blades need to be sharpened badly. Manual says take the tail wheel bar off to expose the access port, turn the blade pan by hand to locate the 1 1/2” bolt to remove the blade.

I’m guessing there is a small dent in the pan because I don’t have enough room to fit my socket over the bolt.

Will I need to replace the pan or can I get a few more seasons out of it? If I don’t have to replace it, what’s the quickest way to get those bolts off so I can sharpen those blades? Also, manual says “I must replace mounting hardware when reattaching the blades”??? Not sure which hardware it’s referring too exactly.

If I have to take the pan off with the blades attached, how heavy is it? (I’m a 120lb woman doing this alone. Upper-body strength isn’t exactly my forte lol)View attachment 691908


View attachment 691909

No idea how heavy that pan with blades is, but I am an 80 year old man weighing 188 lbs, and doubt that I could manage that easily either.
I would get some large wood blocks, and stack them up tight, in a triangular pattern, under the pan at it's outer edge, where the blades attach to the pan.
Then I would beg borrow or steal a 3/4" pneumatic impact wrench (I have one) with proper size impact socket, and crawl under there to TRY to get that nut/bolt off.
It will likely take SIGNIFICANT force to remove that center nut/bolt, and a 3/4" impact wrench may actually not be powerful enough!
After removing the bolt, just lift the mower housing a bit more, and back away.

I suspect replacing the "mounting hardware" refers to replacing the BLADE mounting bolts, and that would seem to be a necessity due to probable bolt fatigue/wear.

The best option by far though, would be to find a big strong male buck to do this job for you, or put it on a trailer, and take it somewhere, to have it done!
This is clearly NOT 120 lb. woman work, and quite questionable for an 80 year old man as well.

 

[RickB]

Make the access hole bigger to allow direct access to the blade bolt. Much easier than removing the stump jumper/ blade bar. There's a very small probability of a bent stump jumper/blade bar and a very high probability that the access hole isn't properly located, especially if both blade bolts look like your picture.

 

[WranglerX]

As suggested above make access hole bigger so socket fits bolt head nicely.... Also suggest if you don't have big air tools you may consider getting a torque multiplier... Blade bolt are traditionally really high torque specification (maybe 400-600 ft-lbs) and with age and rust it is going to be really difficult.... I have a torque multiplier that has a 4:1 ratio so ever one pound of force applied to handle it applied 4 pounds of force on (output) socket... So say 100 ft-lbs applies to handle it can produce 400 ft-lbs force on output.... Above all do not be dissuaded because you are woman and only whopping 120 pounds, these thing can defeat a 300 pound gorilla with really big tools.... Not any loss of pride to call in reinforcement with big tools.... Also suggest you get 3/4 in drive sockets and breaker bar because you are probably going to break any 1/2 drive tools....And please don't use a ratchet, its going to be first thing that fails and when it does you may get hurt if you have any amount of force applied...

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-613cgdga/images/stencil/660x660/products/127/9897/Williams_torque_Multiplier_with_Handle____07304.1470312576.jpg?c=2

And a torque multiplier usually can be rented at better tool rental places...

Good luck!

Dale

 

[mcfarmall]

Looks like the well-paid technicians at Frontier put the access hole in the wrong spot.

 

[bearthebruce]

@piaffepony, before you crawl under that mower, please do make sure you have it well supported so it cannot come down on you. 120lb versus 500+ pounds... which do you think survives?

Do not trust the 3PH to hold it up. Do not trust the tractor hydraulics. Please block it up so it cannot move.

 

[deserteagle71]

Looks to me like it should be possible to get under there with an angle grinder and touch up those blades in place, so why remove them?

Remember, you don't want to sharpen the blades to a really sharp edge. Google "how to sharpen bush hog blades"; there are several videos showing how to do this without removing the blades at all. Quick and simple!

 

[Rustyiron]

Well I'd suggest that you start hitting the 2 bolts right away with some penetrating spray every week or so . Blades are no fun, sometimes no matter what you have for tools.
If you're just knocking down brush I'd just run them, now a pretty pasture could be a different story depending on your expectations.

 

[RickB]

Looks like the well-paid technicians at Frontier put the access hole in the wrong spot.

Frontier doesn't design or manufacture anything. Frontier is a collection of implements sourced from short line manufacturers and rebranded as Frontier and sold by John Deere and their dealer network.

 

[piaffepony]

As suggested above make access hole bigger so socket fits bolt head nicely.... Also suggest if you don't have big air tools you may consider getting a torque multiplier... Blade bolt are traditionally really high torque specification (maybe 400-600 ft-lbs) and with age and rust it is going to be really difficult.... I have a torque multiplier that has a 4:1 ratio so ever one pound of force applied to handle it applied 4 pounds of force on (output) socket... So say 100 ft-lbs applies to handle it can produce 400 ft-lbs force on output.... Above all do not be dissuaded because you are woman and only whopping 120 pounds, these thing can defeat a 300 pound gorilla with really big tools.... Not any loss of pride to call in reinforcement with big tools.... Also suggest you get 3/4 in drive sockets and breaker bar because you are probably going to break any 1/2 drive tools....And please don't use a ratchet, its going to be first thing that fails and when it does you may get hurt if you have any amount of force applied...

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-613cgdga/images/stencil/660x660/products/127/9897/Williams_torque_Multiplier_with_Handle____07304.1470312576.jpg?c=2

And a torque multiplier usually can be rented at better tool rental places...

Good luck!

Dale

Thank you for the kind words! I’m not dissuaded at all... I’ve learned to be creative to work around my physical and fiscal limitations because I’ll grow old waiting on a man to come help lol blocks, jacks, jack stands, pry/cheater bars, ratchets, pullies and Google are girls’ best friends working in a man’s world!

I’m lucky enough to have an awesome 3/4 drive Milwaukee impact (seriously LOVE it!) and it hasn’t failed me yet on some large ancient/rusty bolts after a quick application of some penetrating oil or another.

The one thing I don’t have is an angle grinder. My old corded one took a crap which is why I’m trying to get the blades off. I do have a spare set of new blades and can use my bench grinder on the old ones until I can snag another grinder. I already asked a few friends if they had one I could borrow but no such luck. What would be the best way to enlarge the opening? I started to try with my sawzall but it’s rather difficult (and a bit sketchy safety wise) given that it’s in channel that holds the tail wheel bar. I probably need to enlarge it a good 1/4-1/2”.