JD 990 Driving at full Speed with 1.5 hours

kennyd · Aug 31, 2006

neverenough said:
In '61 grandpa got to tour the Deere plant in Iowa where they made his 4010. The tractors came out the door, literally, at WOT. This was after they were dynoed at WOT to make sure they worked. Your tractor motor is more broke in at the factory than you think.

So, my question is, that I already know the answer to, is.... If the motor is meant to run at a given rpm, why does it need to be "broke in" at other rpm 's???

Let's put this in perspective another way. If your car averages 45 miles per hour of use, in 5000 hours, you will have driven about 225,000 miles. The typical ag diesel is rated for 5000 hours. That is equal to the life of a typical car...if not more becouse of the harsh conditions an ag motor encounters in dusty/muddy/alway's heavily loaded, conditions. Now your car must accelerate up to various speeds, with various throttle settings all the time. Some day's you might just go to the store with a light foot, and only rev the motor up to say 2700 rpms, during the week, say, 3 day's a week, your running late for work, so you drive harder, now your reving your motor up to 3600 rpm's. In both cases, the motor is going up and down in rpm's, while the transmission (or operator) is shifting gears. In this case, the motor needs to be broken in for the various rpm ranges the motor will encounter over it's life. A properly operated tractor should see the same rpm's at a minimum of 80% of it's life. You need the motor "broke in" in it's optimum operating rpms, so you get maximum hp once the rings are finished "seating". I'm not out to debate the issue, I'm just giving more of an explanation on why I stated what I did in my first post.

Well said, but I still disagree.

johnnylight · Aug 31, 2006

sandtopia said:
I had to take out inland marine insurance. It was quite pricey for that machine around 350 per month.

That is expensive.
curious to see how many hours 10 miles will add.

BillyP · Aug 31, 2006

sandtopia said:
I had to take out inland marine insurance. It was quite pricey for that machine around 350 per month.

You mean a year, right?

ArkLaTexSam · Aug 31, 2006

The new tractors like my 4320 do not come with break-in oil anymore.

ArkLaTexSam

pruntyc · Aug 31, 2006

I don't doubt that, as I really never thought there was all that much difference in break in oil, and other oil. They haven't used it in cars in many years. But the point I was making was things are done differently than they were 45 years ago. I was working at the Ford assembly plant in River Rouge Michigan about the time his grandfather was going through the Deere plant. And I can just about guarantee you, that they aren't doing things the same way in that plant as they were when I worked there. And even if they did run them out the door at WOT, that would only be a little above PTO speed, and then it would only be for a very short time, till they were outside. Not like driving it 10 miles. And my 4110 I bought in Feb, has break in oil in it.

neverenough · Sep 1, 2006

pruntyc said:
Just maybe things has changed since 1961, that is 45 years ago, and most things has. But either way, by changing the rpms you are also changing the temperature of the rings, and cylinder, so they will wear better to make a better fit. Now this isn't just something all the company's are dreaming up, just to have something to do. They have proven this works, to make the engine work better and last longer. Why do you think they put in break in oil in them? Not just to have something to do, but to help them break in better.

Correction: The prehistoric way of up and down with the rpm's was not for heat, as you stated. The reason for doing is was, as you increase or "load" the motor, it forces the rings against the walls to shape it so it would seal well under the compression stroke. As you unloaded, or dropped the rpms, it would "wash" the cylinder walls of oil, so when you went back to "loading" the rings, it would have metal to metal contact so the ring would wear and "seat" into the cylinder wall. Modern alloy rings and ring designs, along with modern cylinder honing technology, allows rings to be "seated" much faster than 40 years ago. So, again, any break in left from the factory should be done operating the motor at the intended rpms or rpm range.

pruntyc · Sep 1, 2006

I guess what you are telling me, is that I'm from prehistoric times. I wonder how I can use this computer, as I don't know anything? Beings I am so stupid, I guess I need to find some young fellow like you, to inform me what day it is and how to do things. Of course there are a lot of other OLD guys on here so how can you help us all know something, so we will not keep living in prehistoric times???? Are you forgetting that you said you didn't need to break the rings in 45 years ago in your first post? Now you are telling me why you think they needed broke in. I guess I'm just confused because of my old age. Of course your grandpa must be getting old too, is he also prehistoric????

ArkCivEngr · Sep 6, 2006

350 per month? Surely you mean per year? Mine covers my tractor, loader, and hoe and is only $147 per year.

pruntyc · Sep 6, 2006

We never heard, did you make the trip?? And while I'm on here, he is wrong. It is the heat, is why you change the rpm. I worked at mechanics some years ago. At high speed, its like if you rub your hands together fast, the faster you rub them the hotter they get. Same way with the rings, and you want them to get hot, so it makes the oil thin and kind of breaks the film, so you get a little metal to metal to wear them into each other. But not too much so you lower the rpms, and then you have a better film of oil, to it runs a little cooler and less wear, for a time. If you run it flat out, very long, it will completely break the oil film, and then you will have metal to metal, so bad it will score the cylinders and ruin the engine. That is why you change the speed to do a little at a time, and if done right will add a lot of life to the engine. Then it won't change the temper, and wear even. All engines are like this, some small air cooled engines like outboards they have you just idle them for a few minutes, then part way throttle, and more and more.

neverenough · Sep 7, 2006

pruntyc said:
I guess what you are telling me, is that I'm from prehistoric times. I wonder how I can use this computer, as I don't know anything? Beings I am so stupid, I guess I need to find some young fellow like you, to inform me what day it is and how to do things. Of course there are a lot of other OLD guys on here so how can you help us all know something, so we will not keep living in prehistoric times???? Are you forgetting that you said you didn't need to break the rings in 45 years ago in your first post? Now you are telling me why you think they needed broke in. I guess I'm just confused because of my old age. Of course your grandpa must be getting old too, is he also prehistoric????

Easy now, you look like your just short of a stroke. Where in my first post did I say they didn't need to break rings in 45 years ago??? I stated they came out of the factory WOT, so people would understand it's ok to open the motor up, not baby it during the early hours of it's life. Otherwise, I said exactly what I meant to say, and I'm not going to argue it. People are welcome to take my advise, or not, it's totally up to them.